ABS Connector Replacey=Robbery?

You haven't said what the brake system trouble codes are yet. That would help a lot as far as being sure of what the suggested fix is.

If it is the speed sensor on a rear hub, Toyota doesn't list the sensor separately; it's pressed into the hub. Toyota's hub has a $351 MSRP; $250 to $300 prices might be seen at some of the Toyota dealers that sell at discounts.

If replaced less than a year ago, replacement should be easy-peasy. The only thing difficult about it is when the hub is stubbornly corroded into the axle, but that shouldn't have happened in only a year.

 

we don’t know what was the previous estimate was

 

$275 for parts and labor? Must not be a Toyota hub. They are about $300 or more.
You can search online and find a Timken hub for about $250.
Certainly he's not paying that price, but the labor cost would be about 1.5-2 hours.
Maybe $100-200 for labor? He maybe be getting cheap hubs, but even those usually have
a one year warranty. Just make sure they are not TRQ hubs! They are CRAP! They will only last
a few thousand miles....
What ABS code is it showing? If it's a sensor, it will say which one. If the connector is corroded, then
they must not have connected it correctly, he should replace it at no cost to you.

 

You don't need a scanner to get the brake codes, if you look up the threads on here about counting light blinks.

If you're completely convinced he has nailed the diagnosis, then you can just go with whatever he says, and not check the codes.

 

If you just need the wire, you can get it from Toyota and install it yourself.
But if it's bad, I'll bet it wasn't plugged in all the way. It's kind of a pain to connect it, correctly....
You just have to be patient and do it right.

 

You might try 89516-47090.

 

codes are just suggestions now, plug n pray is the way.

 

I just went through this on my 2011. replaced both rear bearings last year and about 2 months after had same issue. Found the ABS cable had bad wire crimping on it and the wire was loose causing intermit lights. Replaced the cable and fixed the issue till last week when same light code, this was right side. Pulled everything off and same thing with the cable, so replaced the cable and fixed the issue. While I was waiting for the cable to come in I also popped off the ABS cap on my old bearings I had laying around and just for giggles replaced it with my bearing and it worked just fine, so you can go that way too. My Prius has 258,000 and the only issue had was the bearings so far, other than the inverter which was covered by warranty at 220,000.

 

What I tell myself for comfort is that if I ever need to get one of those bearings out, my air hammer will be my friend.

Haven't had to find out yet.

 

All you need is a medium sized hammer and a medium punch.
A 1/2 inch braker bar. Usually standing/bouncing on the braker bar loosens the bolts.
Though mine weren't that tight, I uses 3/8 inch braker bar. But if you're are tight, hit the braker bar
at the joint while standing on it. That works a lot also.
Also, spray the hub where it contacts the flange as soon as you get the wheel off, and the
back side where the cv join is.
Once the bolts are out, spray again. Then take the hammer and punch and hit the hub to rotate it
clockwise and counter clockwise. It may take several times but you'll see it moving, and you can move it
enough to so you can install the two bolts at opposite corners and snuck them up to put pressure on the
hub, then hit it with the hammer, snug up the bolts hit it again.... After a few times the hub will work its way out.

Us a wire brush and clean up the area and clean it with brake cleaner. Spread some anti-sieze on the flange
and then install the new hub.

This way may be a little time consuming, but you won't kill yourself doing it. Then you won't have to pay the labor.

And use GOOD hubs! NOT TRQ! Or other cheap ones from ebay! Timken are the best, Moog is second.
Autozone MAY have Timken, but they do have Moog, with a 3 year warranty.

 

I've never had the bolts be a problem, to be honest. My only experiences with Prius wheel bearings have been where the bolts come right out like butter at just about the expected torque, only the hub still believes it is more or less welded in place.

If I remember right, my Gen 1 hubs had the threaded holes, and the bolts went in from behind ... so you could bring the bolts around and use them through the hubs to press them out as described above (though that isn't the method I used when I had to do it).

I think my Gen 3 hubs have the clear holes, and the bolts go through from the hub side, and thread into the knuckle/rear axle, so the same 'press' technique would require accessibility to run the bolts in from behind. I haven't tried that yet either.

 

My fuzzy recollection is the bearing has threaded holes; the hub has through-holes. You could make two assemblies of threaded rods, washers and nuts through the over-sized holes in outside flange of bearing, “screw jack” the bearing off, with occasional hammer taps with each tensioning. There is a risk you’ll end up separating the bearing?