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GEN 2 PRIUS NOT STARTING

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by nicolas velasco, Jul 11, 2021.

  1. nicolas velasco

    nicolas velasco New Member

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    Hello,

    I own a 2004 Prius.
    I recently got the car and replaced the Auxilary 12v battery.
    i've been driving the car for 2 months with the following ABS codes:
    C1202
    C1203
    C1256
    C1259
    C1310
    C1345
    I have also been driving the car with block 12 of the hybrid battery pack bad.
    However, a couple days ago the car didn't start.
    I thought maybe the auxilary battery was dead so went ahead and charged it. That day the car was driven to work for a total length of 15 minutes.
    I got off work that day and tried to start the car but the "Ready" symbol wouldn't come up.
    Re-charged the auxilary battery and the car started and drove completely fine.
    Once again the car would not start the next day as the "Ready" symbol would not come up.

    Im not sure what is causing the car not to start, as it was driving fine before. It is also weird that all electrical components (windows, radio, everything) works but the car wont start unless i charge the battery.
    There is also a long beeping sound that remains on for about 5 minutes

    Is it the hybrid battery that is causing this? (draining the auxilary?)
    Is it the abs actuator ?

    HELPPPPPP
    (PS, i know that the daily has been neglected, i have been working on 2JZ build, but that will have to hold as i want clear all codes once i figure out why it doesnt start)
     
  2. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Sounds like your 12v is discharging fast, probably due to a parasitic draw. Need to measure it and then isolate by fuse.
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The C1259 and C1310 mean that you also have HV ECU and/or battery ECU codes, which you haven't reported here. The one bad module that you know about could be one of them, but the downside of driving for months with codes you've decided you know about is you don't find out what other codes may have been logged during that time. There are definitely some HV and battery ECU codes that will prevent the car from going READY. If you had those codes we would know.

    The long beep probably indicates further deterioration of the brake situation indicated by your C1256.
     
  4. chronon

    chronon Active Member

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    u shouldnt expect much with any bad block on the traction bat.
    yeah u will have imminent brake failure .. that is the long beep, it will likely happen when u least want it , like far away from home and during a time when u need it the most (ie making a delivery ). that beep is a lack of hydrauling pressure in the breaks .. either your pmup is going or your abs solenoids or somethging is leaking but seems it is slow enough that after5 min your system has enough pressure that the long beep goes away .. be warned: that abs and break pump module is a real pain .. its expensive, its hard to get to and takes a long time and lotta effort to get it out of there .. and yours will need to be taken out very soon ..
    added on top of that the weak pack .. 1 bad block that u know of and how many are right behind as soon as u replace that block?
    breaks and red triangle of battery pack on a 18 year car .. shocks bad too ? how long will you torture yourself on this daily driver .. i guess it's good if u need an excuse to get out of going to a really crappy job ....

    "
    Is it the hybrid battery that is causing this? (draining the auxilary?)
    Is it the abs actuator ? "

    I'm pretty sure it is the abs actuator causing the long beep .. yes that's what happened to me a long sustained beep was the 14 pound module (19 with counterweight) sitting behind and lower than your invertor ..

    the hybrid battery beep is 'quieter?' .. and seems to not stay on as long .. mostly the hybrid computer sends the pack cooling fan into turbo high mode which is also very annoying

    the low 12v and the weak battery pack .. a vicous circle . .the traction bat tries to charge the 12v .. and prob some kind of leak / ground bad somewher .. do u live in a humid r/ rainy area ?
    did u install a trailer light kit ? do u have corrosion --- oh yeas . . i meant have you checked for corrosion by opening the traction battery and inspecting the 1) block voltage sense connector tabs 2) block voltage sense harness 3) block voltage sense pins at a) connection harness female on harness b) connection to harness pins (male) on the ECU (battery) -- AND take the ECU out, take it apart - inside the nice aluminum housing is a simple PCB - inspect - lighct and magnification if needed - u will want to look at where those sense pins go down into the pcb .. the corrosion will often follow the pins all the way onto the pcb and it was recommended to me when i saw that to replace both the Harness AND the ECU !!!

    u really need to get a cheap somewhat working Techstream , (ideally a fully functional set up)
    techstream on an old 32 bit laptop that at least can read if it cant get th elive values ...
    to give u the brake codes that u cant get with a generic/universal code reader ..
     
    #4 chronon, Jul 12, 2021
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2021
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  5. nicolas velasco

    nicolas velasco New Member

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    Hello,

    So i checked the 12v battery and it is reading 11.9v
    Dont see anything wrong there, every electrical component works but the car just wont go into ready mode
     
  6. nicolas velasco

    nicolas velasco New Member

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    Correct!!!
    I intend to purchase a completely battery cell exactly for that reason. I have already replaced 2 and don wanna keep on doing the same thing over and over so there is that.
    As for the ABS, i am sure that it is the ABS pump which intend to replace myself. ( I work a decent amount on cars so i know my way around)
    Since the car only has 120k miles on it, i wanna fix it since it is my daily driver. I have not towed anything with the car

    However, i just wanna find out why the car is not turning on since nothing has been done to the car and or nothing has really changed, i just don't want to spend time replacing and doing all of this so that the car remains dysfunctional

    I would think that it would be the hybrid battery causing the car not to turn on, but i have also read that the brakes might cause this as well so im not sure

    Thank you
     
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  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    your new 12v is only reading 11.9?(n)
     
  8. nicolas velasco

    nicolas velasco New Member

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    Yes, it is dischargin but i dont know why
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Are you curious enough yet to read the rest of the trouble codes?
     
  10. nicolas velasco

    nicolas velasco New Member

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    Yea, i read all of them but since i have issues with both the hybrid battery and the ABS pump, those codes may be popping up because of those issues.

    Either way i have had those codes since i got the car, so i dont think that might be the issue sine i have been driving the car like that.
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    ^Second this.


     
    #11 Mendel Leisk, Jul 13, 2021
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2021
  12. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    If any door (including the hatch, and possibly even the hood) is "open", which includes one physically closed but with a door switch which has shorted to ground, it will pull a bit over 300mA from the 12V battery. Even if all the cabin lights are turned off. So when checking for parasitic currents all the doors must be electrically "closed" and their open/shut sensor switches working properly. Because the battery is in the trunk it is tempting to stand under the open hatch with a measuring device attached to the battery. Do not do that when looking for a parasitic draw. With all the doors electrically "closed" the car only pulls around 15mA once it settles down (stops running pumps and such.)
     
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  13. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    are you sure it doesn't just need a charge?
     
  14. nicolas velasco

    nicolas velasco New Member

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    I will be checking this today, it has been a rainy week in florida
     
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  15. nicolas velasco

    nicolas velasco New Member

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    I have re-charged it a total of 3 times.
    As soon as i recharge it the car is able to turn on but if the car stays off longer than 3 to 4 hours i am not able to turn it back on unless i charge the battery again
     
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  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Anyway, the only codes you have told us about are the ones from the brake ECU that you listed in post #1. Two of those indicate there are also codes in other ECUs, but you have never told us what those other codes are.

    Your assumptions about whether they matter or not might be right, or they might not. There are some people here on PriusChat with decent experience interpreting the trouble codes and which ones might matter to your situation, but who can't help without the information to work with.
     
  17. Another

    Another Senior Member

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    Maybe take the 12v and fully charge it with an external charger, then if you don’t have the equipment, have pep boys or someone do a drawdown test on it and see if you just got a bad battery?
     
  18. nicolas velasco

    nicolas velasco New Member

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    Hello,
    So i have taken the battery out and took it to Advance auto to do a check.
    As they completed the test, it was conclude that the battery was completely fine.

    Upon arriving home with the battery, i decided to go ahead and try to start the car.
    The car started without any issues. I decided to go for a test drive and upon driving the vehicle i quickly noticed that the car was not driving properly. The engine sounded as if it was struggling. The car still drove but it sounded as if when you are not switching gears so the RPMS just keep going up .
    Upon arriving home after my unssucesful test drive, i went ahead and scanned the codes again to see if there was anything new.
    These were the coded:

    P3022- Battery block 12 becomes weak
    C1202- Master reservoir level malfunction ( I checked brake fluid and its fine. Probably throwing this code because of the ABS)
    C1203- ECM communication circuit malfunction ( I believe this code is being thrown because of the bad ABS pump)
    C1256- Bad brake Accumulator ( ABS PUMP )
    C1259- HV system regen malfunction ( I think this code is being thrown because of the bad ABS pump)
    C1310- Malfunction in HV system ( again becuase of the ABS pump )

    I am leaning more towards the side of the ABS pump again but i dont wanna spend alot of money and time for me to fix it and it not work you know
    HELLPPPPPP
     
  19. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    sounds like a bad hybrid battery
     
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    No, the C1259 and C1310 are there because the HV system has reported an issue (the traction battery issue indicated by the P3022). The HV system tells the brake system "hey, don't count on me for regen because my battery's dodgy", and the brake system's C1259 and C1310 codes are its way of saying "roger that, I'm on my own for braking."

    C1256 is a problem keeping accumulator pressure up to spec (can be the pump, or internal leakage, anything that prevents pressure from building and holding as it should).

    C1202 doesn't have to mean the fluid level is wrong, it can mean the connection to the level sensing switch is broken. In Gen 3, there are some procedures where you're supposed to unplug the level switch; I can't say offhand if there are similar ones in Gen 2. If you forget and leave that switch unplugged, you'll get a C1202.

    For that and also the C1203, I would recommend just looking in the Repair Manual to see what their detection conditions are and how to troubleshoot them. I think you'll find those two codes are not "thrown because of the ABS pump".
     
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