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Coolant overflow at 190+ degrees F

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by roqua01, Aug 2, 2021.

  1. roqua01

    roqua01 Junior Member

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    Long time lurker here. Usually just do a little digging on here to find out the issues and solutions to my gen 2. Unfortunately that car is totaled and I purchased a used gen 3 (2012 v) with 168k miles. After a bit of use it got a check engine light and temporary overheat sign and I am now stumped.

    I am in no way an expert mechanic I usually just do small jobs on my own but I was hoping to try and figure this out with the help of this forum.

    What I have done is I did the egr and intake manifold clean and changed the intake gasket and throttle body gasket.
    I scanned the vehicle with the techstream software and found out the water pump was throwing an error so I changed that and found that the old water pump was definitely messed up. I changed the thermostat.
    I also did the spark plugs and oil and filter change.
    I flushed out the coolant and had to squeeze all the hoses to get more than one gallon of coolant in. I also removed the temperature sensor to try and get all the air out of the system. Eventually I got about 1.5 gallons of coolant in.
    I turned on the vehicle in maintenance mode and all seemed good until about maybe 20ish minutes. The car rpm seemed to drop and then I saw steam coming through the coolant cap opening (cap was not on to let air out) and the coolant level rose and eventually spilled out. This started exactly when the engine rpm seemed to settle/drop.
    I tried it again while watching the temperature and noticed it happened around 190 degrees F and the radiator fans did not turn on. ( I have a video of this happening if it helps anyone I can post it.)
    To test if the fans worked I turned the AC on and the fans indeed work. I also tested the fan using the battery fan cooling section on techstream and the radiator fan did turn on.

    Is there a radiator fan relay that could be out? I know there is 3 fan relays.

    Also there are codes that the car throws now and they are P0171, B1503, B2322 and B1585.

    Random things I noticed that might help were when the heat is on low the car temperature doesn't go past 186 and the coolant does not overflow.

    The dealership filled the car with green coolant not the toyota coolant. I drained it and put the pink cap coolant in.

    From what I've read on here these engines overheat and blow gaskets but I have seen no signs (that I know of) of a blown gasket. I will be borrowing a combustion leak tester to make sure it's good. Until then if anyone has any ideas I will greatly appreciate it. Thank you!
     
  2. roqua01

    roqua01 Junior Member

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    Temperature is hard to see at the end but when I turn off the heater the temperature goes from 186 to 192.2 and that's when the engine sounds different and the coolant starts to overflow.
     
  3. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Sounds like the water pump is still not working, the temp sensor is bad or a blockage exists. No fans when overheating with a readout of 190f seems to point at those items. Maybe the sensor since you have a code. Especially considering steam forms at 212f.

    The fan circuit is the same for ac or coolant operation. It has a high and low speed control by an ecu. If its not coming on, the ecu thinks the coolant temp is ok.

    Do you see the normal coolant flow into the bottom of the coolant reservoir? Is the thermostat installed correctly?
     
    Air_Boss likes this.
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Fans in my Gen 3 do not start until 95 ℃, which is about 203 ℉. If you're not noticing them start at 190 ℉ it might be because they don't. :)

    I have never tried to burp mine the way you're doing it, with the cap off; I've always done it the way the repair manual says, filling to the B line and then tightening the cap and warming up the engine (heater max hot, blower low). That has always worked for me exactly the way the manual says; the air in the system trades places with the extra fluid in the bottle, and after shutting down and cooling off, the level is right at F just like they planned it that way.

    Pressure is developed in the system when run up to operating temperature with the cap on. The liquid level doesn't come up near the opening as long as the air is there above it, but if you were to loosen the pressure cap at that temperature (against all car safety advice drilled into everyone everywhere), it would be no surprise if liquid escaped.
     
  5. farmecologist

    farmecologist Senior Member

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    Hmm...why is the radiator reservoir cap off in your video?

    As I understand it, the reservoir cap *must* be ON in a Prius to get the cooling system slightly pressurized. This pressurization affects the boiling point of the coolant and keeps it from boiling over.
     
  6. msg4life

    msg4life Member

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    The heater is like a secondary radiator... so the temp will drop.. its the reason why people who have over heating cars run their heater.
     
  7. roqua01

    roqua01 Junior Member

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    Will check all those parts you mentioned. If anyone knows I can turn on the "water pump" on techstream and hear a water flow sound.. not sure if that proves that it works but will check if I can feel/see it working. Thanks for the reply.

    kept the cap off because that is how I saw it on youtube from some guide videos. will try it the way you mentioned!

    thanks for the reply and yes I watched a video on youtube that did it this way but will try what you and and what ChapmanF has mentioned.

    i'm silly and completely forgot that about cars... thanks for the reminder!
     
    farmecologist likes this.
  8. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Senior Member

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    My pump went out at 169,000
     
  9. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Senior Member

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  10. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Senior Member

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