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2012 Prius V would not start without being 'forced'

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Kereneni, Aug 13, 2021.

  1. Kereneni

    Kereneni Junior Member

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    Without any warning, my car would not start last night.
    • The only dashboard light was the red security blinking light. No other dash lights. No codes.
    • At first, there was no response to my pushing the start button.
    • Then the red light on the start button would engage, but no dash lights.

    In a fast read of possible alternative ways to start, I was finally able to start the car in this manner:
    1. Without my foot on the brake pedal, depress the start button for 45 seconds.
    2. Release the start button.
    3. Press the brake pedal and depress the start button.

    This started the car.
    All of the usual dash lights came on at this time. No codes appeared. No warning icons appeared.

    I drove the car to a destination about five miles away, parked the car, and left it for about 2 hours.
    • When I returned, there was the same issue.
    • I started the car the same way as I described above.

    When I returned home, I visited the car three times in approx. one-hour intervals, and the car started immediately each time, as it normally did.

    This morning, the car has started immediately, as it normally has. I have checked it several times this morning, at one-hour intervals, and .... all appears normal.

    I have searched for similar scenarios on this forum and elsewhere; I've looked in my Prius manual, all to no avail.

    My key fobs do work, but in the last couple of months, there have been times when the car did not respond when I depressed the unlock button to open all of the doors.

    On the off chance this has anything to do with it, it happens that a strong wind storm, preceding a heavy rain, rose up minutes before I discovered the car wouldn't start. I realize that sounds bizarre, but I've seen stranger things that have affected technology in surprising ways.

    Thanks in advance for your ideas.
     
  2. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Try changing the fob batteries.
     
  3. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    It's obviously the semicranial auxiliary ambidextrous flux gate. A dealer will charge you $7000 to repair it. I'll give you $500 cash for the car today!

    Obviously just kidding. If changing the fob batteries doesn't work, the next candidate is the 12V battery. You have a few options with that: a) charge it, b) disconnect and charge it, c) replace it. None of these are hard but after reconnecting and/or replacing the first start will be unusual quite possibly.
     
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how is the 12v health?
     
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  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I forgot about a bad brake switch. The method you use may bypasses it.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Is there a website describing that method; sounds interesting.

    tongue-in-cheek “idea”: solar wind?
     
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  7. Kereneni

    Kereneni Junior Member

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    @Mendel Leisk #6 ........ one website re: forcing start was this one:


    How to Re-Start Your Second Generation Prius
    by Patrick Haas on June 06, 2016
    (I can't insert links yet due to my junior status)

    At the end of June, at a Toyota dealership, the 12v battery allegedly checked out as "good," but I don't have 100% confidence in the diligence of that dealership's mechanic because of a couple of yellow flags there. Also, I appreciate that what might have been "good" six weeks ago doesn't necessarily pertain to today.

    OK, folks, looks like so far, the possible suspects are typical of those in similar queries - I was hoping that because I could get the car to start in the fashion I described in #1 that this could narrow the investigation.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Today’s electronic load testers are good for testing, not only voltage, but the overall viability. DIY level testers are available, and battery retailers will often have a pro-level version, be willing to run the test for free. It’s a 5 minute procedure. Dealerships have them too, and independent garages. Dealerships more’n likely will ding you a half hours labour for this test though.

    I use a Solar BA5; see the current iteration is BA9, comes in at $75 CDN for me on Amazon. That’s probably around what the dealership would charge, for ONE test, if you want to rationalize the purchase.

    The tester requires direct connection at the posts, and “needs some information”: the battery format (conventional lead acid, conventional case AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat), spiral-wound AGM, Gel, or…), and the specified CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). It can also work with Cranking Amps, some other ratings.

    You hook up, enter the info, run the test, and it shows actual CCA, plus a verdict. With the Solar tester the verdict can be Pass, Pass-But-Recharge Needed, or Fail.

    Typically you want to see as-measured CCA well above spec’d. CCA. Voltage, while not as critical, will be at least 12.5 with a healthy/viable battery, and a really good shape battery 12.7~12.9, with AGM’s towards the higher end.


    Thanks! here’s a link for that:

    How to Re-Start Your Second Generation Prius | YourMechanic Advice
     
    #8 Mendel Leisk, Aug 14, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2021
  9. Kereneni

    Kereneni Junior Member

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    Closing the loop on my original post:

    Bottomish line: It was, indeed, the 12v battery, although that doesn't eliminate any other possible demons lurking in the shadows.

    More details:
    I took my car to Auto Zone and asked them to check my battery (after I'd looked at the Auto Zone website to see if they include Prius batteries in their free checks). The employee told me, nope, we are not allowed to touch the batteries in a Prius hybrid.

    Later that day, my car wouldn't start and the forced-start technique availed zip. Furthermore, the car doors would neither lock nor unlock (!!!).

    I got a jump start via AAA and I drove to an O'Reilly auto parts store to inquire about buying a jumper kit to get me from my Point A to Point B, as I knew I'd have to stop along the way.

    The O'Reilly employee said, "Well, let's see if we've got a battery for a 2012 Prius V in stock."
    I said, "Well, that'd be great, but I don't have the skill to change it out myself."
    He said, "I can install it."
    I said, "What??"
    I thought, "Hm, what is the risk of doing this? Does this guy know what he's doing? Is this going to blow up my car?" (Hyperbole intended; don't get too excited.)
    I said: "What's the warranty?"
    He said, "Three years."
    I thought, "Ok, that's an acceptable risk. I have recourse if there's an issue with the battery or its installation."
    I asked, "What does it cost for you to install it?"
    He said, "Nothing."
    I said, "Let's do it!"

    BTW, it was on a Saturday evening less than an hour before closing time and I was far away from my destination (and starting point) with a fully-packed car, necessitating some unloading for the employee to get at the battery in the rear, and I had been assuming that I'd be cooling my heels in a motel til Monday morning. Maybe with a car I couldn't lock, which was loaded with Important Stuff.

    Conclusion:
    So far, happy ending.

    Nevertheless, I'll change out my fob batteries in the next few days as a preventive measure, in addition to a very thorough maintenance check. In re: a post above, I'll also inquire about the health of the brake switch.

    Side note: At the end of June, the Toyota dealership had marked the green square ("good") for my 12v battery.

    Thank you to all who wrote with your ideas!
     
  10. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Auto Zone has poor management and that rolls downhill.
     
  11. MrPete

    MrPete Active Member

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    FWIW, my final bottom line on testing: pull the ground to get an accurate result.
    (Sadly, none of the places I went to for a test did that. Not even the dealer.)
     
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  12. TreeHugger1

    TreeHugger1 Junior Member

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    I am wondering what the downsides are to running with a weak battery? Recently, my sister's 2014 Prius V would intermittently not respond when pressing the start button (a problem solved by installing a new battery) but it always ran well when it did start. How frequently is battery testing advised? How long should a battery be expected to last for a Prius driven 10k miles per year?
     
  13. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    No real consequences of a weak 12v battery once you replace it. Running a weak 12v battery means it will discharge quickly when not used for a short time. This may cause occasional no starts. In extreme circumstances, a weak 12v battery can lower mpg until you replace it. A 12v battery life is determined more by age than miles. Seven years might be an average life.
     
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  14. kerbear54

    kerbear54 Junior Member

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    I agree with others that there isn't much of a downside to a weak 12v battery. I would recommend a smart charger like the CTEK multi us 7002 that I bought off Amazon in 2013. I'm sure there is a newer version now, but mine cost $96. It has successfully charged many batteries without fail so far ten years later. Our 2014 prius is driven less than 10k a year and is still on its original battery. That is the norm and not the exception for the Prius. One time my wife turned off the car and then pressed the start button without pressing the brake and ran down the battery by using the heater, but the CTEK easily charged the battery and got her going again. Years later, no issues. AGM batteries like the Prius has can be deeply discharged multiple times and brought back to life by a smart charger. Just hook the charger up and let it do the work as it analyzes everything. It has saved me thousands of dollars in battery expenses.
     
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  15. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    We use a CTEK 7002 smart charger and charge state LED telltale connectors on the ‘fleet’.
     
  16. KeystoneKid

    KeystoneKid Junior Member

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    As per instructions, I had disconnected my 12 V battery a few years ago to install a backup camera in my 2012 Prius. I had some problems with hardware in the kit and had to get back to the source to get replacement hardware. I think the battery was disconnected for about 3 days. Upon completion I reconnected the terminals and tried to start the car to check the new camera install. Well NO go. I had a message on the display regarding an issue with the hybrid battery. I freaked out knowing how expensive they are. Mind always goes to worst case scenario. Shortly after I got the car to start and the message did go away. I have no idea what happened there but apparently the Prius does not like its 12 V battery disconnected for long periods. Scared me. Is that normal? And yes I have had local shops refuse to work on my Prius. They say management won't allow it.
     
  17. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Pretty normal. Requires a couple tries to let the system initialize.
     
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  18. ColoradoCrow

    ColoradoCrow Active Member

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    CTEK - 40-206 MXS 5.0 Fully Automatic 4.3 amp Battery Charger and Maintainer 12V

    This one does AGM batteries and should work well. $89.00
     
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  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    “Doing AGM” is apparently charging at a slightly higher voltage, which you do by choosing the “*” (snowflake) symbol. The manual for my CTEK 4.3 (the 5.0’s predecessor, seems more or the less the same except for name change) says to use the higher voltage snowflake option, for “spiral wound” AGM batteries only (the ones that look like a six-pack).

    I have an Optima Yellow Top, and It seems to charge pretty much the same without the snowflake option (higher voltage), but I follow the guidance in the manual.
     
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