OCC and PCV Valve Relocation, Will it Work?

I'll take a peek down the throttle body today, I've removed the airbox in preparation for taking on the EGR cooler and valve swap.

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If you get “winter” in Honolulu, Spring is when you’re likely to get more, and a more mayo appearance.

 

Lol, maybe our "winter" is more like your Fall, or Spring. So I'll see if I get moisture in the OCC during our "Winter".

Since it looks like pure oil, I'm tempted to pour it back into the oil filler cap.

I'll leave it be for now.

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I like your idea of using the PCV valve as the outlet for the oil catch can. I think I will use it for my installation on my V6 Camry, which has a horizontal PCV valve mounted on top of one of the valve covers.

As far as worrying about the catch can being at the same pressure as the crankcase when the PCV valve is closed, I don't think that is a problem, as long as your connections are sound and leak free. I used a heat resistant thread sealing compound on the PCV valve threads, and the threads on the catch can fittings (in addition to the supplied o-rings) on all my connections.

Good quality stainless hose clamps were used all around as well.

Don't forget to ensure that the dipstick on the catch can, if you have one, is airtight too. I added an o-ring at the base of the dipstick threads for good measure.

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Checked the intake manifold below the throttle body, it was hard to see since I left the mesh part on the throttle body gasket when I replaced the gasket recently.

As far as I can tell, it was only moist with a light coating of oil, most likely from oily vapor that didn't condense out and get trapped by the oil catch can and tubing before the PCV valve right before the intake manifold.

Changed the spark plugs today at a little over 124k miles on the odometer.
Plugs looked pretty good.

Will tackle the egr and cooler swap some other day when I have two full days of wrenching time.

Since I had the windshield cowling off, I installed some 1/4 inch hardware cloth over the opening to the cabin air filter and blower. We've had rodent droppings and urine on the cabin air filter before and rodent damage under the hood.


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I think moving the PCV to a location above the original engine block position and to a vertical orientation (so gravity helps keep it closed) makes sense because it provides a longer path for oil vapor and droplets to condense and flow back down to the block. If the PCV and OCC are positioned below the original PCV block height, then nearly all crankcase droplets & vapors end up in the OCC, and you'll need to check the OCC more often, especially with higher mileage engines where rings are carbonized or starting to stick.

Will be interested to hear how this experiment works out ...

 

What size of fitting is the other side? 3/8" barbed to 5/8" Female FNPT? Trying to order parts now...
Thanks!

 

Bump...
How about some updates, please.
Vertical PCV mounted high?
Moving PCV to the outlet on OCC?
Can we see results with mileage?

 

Thanks, that was fast reply. Did you do the relocation? I am seriously considering it instead of the OCC.

 

Thank you. I think the PCV location is stupid. I'm not sure what I will end up doing at this point, but having to pull the intake off every 50-80k miles is not my idea of a fun day. I find the whole situation very irritating. Luckily, I have a few days before my new engine arrives to figure it out.

 

It wouldn't be pulling the intake for the PCV. I simply meant removing the intake to clean it.
However, now that I've said it, and am spending over 4k to replace the engine, I think I'll be doing it anyway just to be safe.
I wonder why I never had this issue with my 2004.