P3024 6 months after NewPriusBatteries.com Battery

I did check the Dr. Prius app before and after. Really, not that much difference. The bars always jump around like a stereo equalizer before and after. I found the test results to vary wildly if ran 10 minutes apart with the old battery.

Battery life tests failed at about 500 seconds to go most of the time on old battery (returned results 57%, then 78%)
Same test ran great on new battery (“107% this is a new battery”) only ran it once. Keeping it in green zone tougher

I don’t think the old battery flashed red in the voltage box (upper left) or all the bars flashed yellow sometimes with the old one.
New battery flashes yellow bars/red box momentarily, often, driving around town. Haven’t been on highway much.

There were always a couple of specific modules very low before.
Now low voltage modules move from place to place and don’t stay long.

The blue bars at the bottom seem about the same, I think.

That’s the extent of my level of testing, understanding of, and credibility given to the Dr. Prius app, hope it helps!

 

The NPB kit comes with all new hardware and cables & interconnect.

No hardware from the old battery better not be used. Mine is a little over a year and working perfectly.

 

Well ....time to start talking to Toaster about this. Your not getting anywhere complaining about this on this thread.

How are you driving this car? Just around locally and short trips? That was killing my NPB battery.

Take it for a nice one hour min drive on the highway. 60 miles an hour. CC. Then when home check the battery status again.

 

I have just reviewed this thread and feel to ask you to clarify a few things.

1. What company is NPD?
2. The image in post #6 (attached below for the convenience of readers) shows an old Toyota OEM battery, not a new newpriusbattery.

 

The coloring of the graph is Dr. Prius' interpretation of what is good and bad. Looking at various screenshots posted here on PriusChat over time, it would seem that Dr. Prius codes blue (cyan) as ok, yellow as caution, and red as bad.

Given its age, your battery should not look like that, but how it got like that is anyone's guess. As the IR is a calculated value resistance could be anywhere outside the battery ECU, not just within the modules.

It would probably be best to talk to @2k1Toaster about it at this point.

 

@DLMcKenzie2004 Hoping you can update us. Was the resistance issue resolved?

 

Ive built and installed 3 of these kits, and after learning much about Toyotas horrible issues with isolation, leakage current, battery CPU corroding internally, I would start with tearing into the battery ECU and make sure there is no corrosion as it will throw all kinds of weird numbers and anomalies..

there's a bit of corrosion on your main wire (negative long one) there's rare issues of the ground shielding Wire wrap around that main wire that can cause issues... I clean mine, clean the terminals and solder the connections at the crimps and test off the battery completely isolated just to make sure its good..

then, if that checks out, use sandpaper (I use 600 wet dry) and sand the connection.. every time I run into an issue there is film or some impurities that will make everything go haywire..

after that is all back together check for isolation. if you don't know how, its very dangerous and can kill or hurt you..

if you do, I use fluke 1587 with the orange plug installed, but remove all the wiring from the battery CPU (best to remove completely), test at 1000v, then if it passes, I test at both solenoid connections, ground on the frame bolt of the battery, positive on each of the 4 posts of the solenoids.. if you see any voltage over 1v or it slowly drops from above 1v then you have a leak to ground.

plus all those numbers are WAY out, I've had NPB on my Prius for over 60k miles and 2.5 years and never had more than a .15 drift from one cell that had some manufacturing oil on the connection, (hence how I learned to sand them before install)

 

EDIT - your milliohms look about the same as mine. See both posts below. I have pasted a screenshot below of data from my 2007 with NPB installed from an hour long run, (using BAFX II dongle + Torque Pro + my graphing) and alot more data from my NPB car is at treecricket.com/vehiviz .

I'm a bit surprised your kit did not come with brand new nuts. I think mine did? Although now that I think about it i can't remember 100%.

However if you are driving with the lid off in high heat please note the airflow will not be correct. Lots of discussion on this board about how the case and ducts are designed specifically for battery airflow. (BTW have you checked your input duct and fan for cleanliness, and are you running with your AC turned on?)

 

ahh here we go. here is another data dump from when i first installed back in 2019. I got numbers closer to yours on that run. I don't understand why other people are saying your numbers are wildly off. i have data dumps from every few months going back 2 years and they all look like this, and i have never had an issue.

 

and for good measure here is a little dump of my voltages from a few minutes during the same run back in 2019. again they are not that different from yours. Usually within 0.1 volts of each other, somteimes about 0.15, everything fluctuation as conditions change. I have data on this for 2 years as well.