2009 not going into gear, several codes

I can't figure out and haven't really tried to post pics here but the other week when I had my Gen 2 battery apart I had to take the front end off the battery which houses the relays the battery ECU a ground strap a few other things and I would definitely check those relays for that 612 area just to see if they are opening and closing and doing what they should and then if you look one of the orange high voltage wires runs through a opaque isolator or noise canceler or something like that You need to check those wires and where they run to in the case because you're 612 is telling you it's all back there right there near that HV battery

SM-A715F ?

 

Yep so issues in back at battery. Be interesting to see where you find the opening where the voltage is getting out I cannot imagine I guess a break in any of the insulation on any of those high voltage wires would do the trick of course back there you're going to be looking at 200 plus volts generally find that with a beep tester.

SM-A715F ?

 

one of the orange high voltage wires runs through a opaque isolator or noise canceler or something like that

Vibration dampener?

or maybe something crazy like a current sensor....

A 612 subcode very commonly ends up being due to electrolyte leakage from one or more modules that makes sufficient contact with the battery case to cause a reduction in insulation value. Probably 99 out of a 100 times.
It can often be seen from the large stains/residue on the case metal. Sometimes it's not immediately visible because it may be on the underside of the modules in the air plenum.

 

No it's like a noise isolator like when you wrap a magnet with a wire around it and then put it in the power line on a car stereo back in the day it stops the whining noise This thing looks kind of like that that I've also seen him on some washing machines and whatnot

SM-A715F ?

 

Trust me. It's a current sensor.
Part number
DENSO 131400-0051

 

Sounds good I just know it comes off when I take the front end off the battery and I keep that part to put on my new set of plates or modules That's basically what you're getting from the dealer is a rack of plates with a cover on it You're missing the expensive ECU that sensor the wires for the orange plug and the wires that go through that sensor that we're talking about that you have to install thanks for letting me know what that is by the way makes perfect sense since it's the voltage I guess or the amps like a permanently mounted clamp meter

SM-A715F ?

 

@StephenJ searching at duckduckgo.com using "Toyota DTC P0AA6 612" I saw this thread and took a look and will start you 3/4 of the way into the 1st page @dolj straight to the point post P0AA6, detail 526, and 612 | PriusChat
ie: check the freeze frame in techstream for which of the items on @dolj list of items for 612 the freeze frame points to. as seen in @dolj post here at the beginning of pg 2 P0AA6, detail 526, and 612 | Page 2 | PriusChat

@Tombukt2 there are some pics in the thread I linked to above just prior to @dolj post by @Dxta
P0AA6, detail 526, and 612 | PriusChat

 

Gawd danged I've never seen such a mess in a battery hold area. That did not smell .outgas .yuk I look at my shiet too often yup even bk they're I've got quick release clips fitted side panels rip off like long male stripper pants .. I've no dirt scraped off paint etc back in batt n trunk area no hatch leaks nada ever. I keep hatch seal clean and lubed

SM-A715F ?

 

The Ohm meter is the shortcut. Should really have techstream to diagnose that issue.
Not having an ohmmeter , should probably not attempt to diagnose the HV system.

If you really want to tackle this repair without a multimeter ohm meter I'd suggest you remove the traction pack as a first step. Open it up and search this forum for relative posts to what you find inside the battery case.

I hope others have suggestions too, cause I've never done any Prius HV system diags. And other hybrid experience doesn't always transfer to Prius too good.

 

Is there any way around using that meter?

Sure, since about 95% or more of these codes are caused by the HV battery. Get access to the HV battery, electronics section. You'll need to take voltage readings at the battery side of the main relay terminals. The HV system is normally isolated from the chassis of the car, but when the HV battery has enough electrolyte leakage to make contact with the battery case, you'll get a voltage reading from those terminals to the case. If you put the black lead of your volt meter to one on the chassis mounting bolts and the red meter lead on each of the battery side terminals of the main relays, do you show a voltage? Does it rapidly drift down to zero or does it stay pretty high?

 

Firstly I think you'll find that the OP has used Techstream to diagnose a P0AA6 with sub codes 526 and 612.

Second the repair manual does call for testing with a MegaOhmmeter which is a specific type of Ohmmeter.

Now to answer the OP, Yes, it is possible to use a voltmeter to confirm the presence of leaked voltage. Which of the steps that would replace. There is a video in other P0AA6 threads (which I'm no eat liberty to search for right now) that one of the other members linked to that will show how to do that and what to look for.

[Edit] TMR has replied with more detail while I was typing this.

 

Still on the subject of testing with a voltmeter: a bonus if you are proactive enough to dig into this while there is still only one leakage path in the battery from one module, you can even use the voltage you read as a rough guide to which module it is. (Just figure the pack is about 201 volts wide, and count that many volts from the end you are measuring against the body. You should be able to measure from the other end and get the complementary reading.)

However, where there is one leakage path there will usually be more eventually, and as soon as there are two or more, that shortcut won't work for you. The multiple paths combine in a mathematically messier way (terms like "Thévenin's theorem" start to fill the air), and you can't just interpret the voltage as a distance across the battery anymore. Then you can tell because measurements from the two ends of the battery won't seem to 'agree' on one distance that makes sense.

 

What were the settings on your meter?

 

What's wrong with undoing the tens lifting up the silver cover and look at the rack You're pretty much almost there I mean it's like four 10 mm and the covers up even with it sitting in the car like that for tens covers up. I see it still looks like you've got the back trim still in so you're not quite there so be about six tens and four 12s maybe but anyway you're there and then if you're going to fool with this a lot like be proactive and prolong and play all the games there's a couple 12s you want to leave out on the back side of the battery down right behind the back seats and then you can trim the brackets like I posted a picture of I thought but and then you have this problem no more than the battery comes out and exactly 22 minutes rather than 40 and it's still in there solid it's not going anywhere it's held to the chassis of the car etc you just made it quicker to pull in and out

SM-A715F ?

 

12 first on each side then the side brackets lift up enuff for battery to slide under wen I return battery I lv 12 out of rear push brackets down apply 12 to top case only to station case save old bolts on tape throw in trunk

SM-A715F ?

 

Oh, I just looked more closely at your photo. You were measuring on the car side of the main relays.

Was the car in READY at the time? If not, those relays are off. To be measuring the battery proper, you would put your test leads (carefully) on the battery-side terminals of those relays instead (the ones in your photo just to the left of the ones you drew the arrows for).

Your 22 volt reading on the car side of SMR2 is kind of interesting ... I'll reserve judgment on it until we also see the battery side.

You see what's going on with the three relays in this picture. (SMR1 is the smaller separate one in your photo, that is sort of wired to both terminals of SMR2 but with that ceramic resistor in between.) According to your arrows, you were measuring on the 'blue' side of SMR2 and SMR3.