2010 headlight wiring harness kit

Our 2011 never got the wiring harness update.

Installed 35w AC HIDs, I finally replaced the bulbs after many years (6 yrs), not because of failure, but due to color shift and a slight loss of output. Mind you, they were still plenty bright.

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To replace, you need the harness (times two), and the specified crimp sleeves and sealant-impregnated heat shrink tubing to complete the repair, and the specified crimping tool. I would counsel following the crimping instructions pretty much to the letter and not substituting, because it is an aluminum-wire to copper-wire joint, and can be a fire hazard if not done just right (as many homeowners in the 1970s learned).

Left unfixed, the problem is usually most annoying if you are using the kind of "premium", "extra bright" bulbs that the auto parts stores usually hang in the most prominent spots at eye level hoping you will buy them. Those things have short lives to begin with, and if your Prius has the headlight overvolt issue, they get eaten in no time.

Usually, the standard headlight bulbs are hanging on the pegs somewhere around your ankles at the auto parts store. Once you find them, they last a lot longer; for me, so much longer that I didn't mind any more, and never bothered to do the harness fix.

I am not thinking of any way for your fuse change (for the in-cabin power outlet?) to have affected the headlight situation though. Unless there is something mighty weird about your phone charger.

 

You don't need the warning cancellers, or canbus cancellers.

Relay harnesses are recommended but I've removed my relay harness when a relay failed and have been running the ballasts off the factory wiring with no problems for years now.

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The minute I bought my 2010 from my wife was solar roof and all that nonsense in the car I immediately took out the halogen bulbs and put in aux beam LEDs The brightest ones they make I don't know what they are 50 watt or something like that 65 watt since their projectors cut offs and all these other problems and blinding people can't really be an issue so it was a no-brainer filament bulbs draining lots of amps or LEDs pulling no amps and any color and brightness that I want so I did that running right off the car no plug no harness no up fits just the bulbs fanless big heat sink on the back plenty of room for them to stick out no modifying the car at all and they are bright as all get out and the wife loves them is there a gen 3 manual posted on here anywhere I've got a turn signal problem

SM-A715F ?

 

Somebody reading quickly might miss the question about a Gen 3 repair manual that you ran in at the very end there.

Our wiki page with the best information on repair manual access is here. There's the direct subscription option, and also services that might be free if, say, your local public library subscribes,

As it mentions too, there are unofficial sources, but any given link might not stay working very long, and also sometimes they are missing bits (or whole sections).

 

The Gen 3 uses H11 bulbs for lowbeams, the 9005 bulbs are the highbeam bulbs.

HIDs require at a minimum, 2 bulbs, and 2 ballasts. However, you might need ballast to bulb extension wires (I did) because of my choice of ballast mounting location. Additionally, your H11 bulbs need to have their ground return wire on the opposite side of the largest locating tab on the base of the bulb, or you will have something called ground wire shadows in your beam patterns.

For LED bulbs, there's so much variation on the quality of what's out there, it's a cr@p shoot. I wouldn't believe the wild claims on the LED longevity, not in the harsh, hot environment that is a car engine bay anyway.

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