Prius 2006 with P3019 needs help

oops my bad! must have been thinking of the project lithium replacement which is another option

 

Nope, if your replacement module is better than existing modules, usually the case because replacement modules are "reconditioned" then a matched set is going to make voltage difference more extreme between blocks / more of a problem rather than less. Just replace the bad module... And if all voltages are the same on module when you're searching for a bad module then you have to load test each module by measuring voltage loss after 2 minutes running a 12v / 50w bulb.

 

Forget Toyota's labor cost if you can take the back trim right out from behind the back seat of the car 10 mm wrench and then if you have a 12 mm flat wrench or a gear wrench 12 mm that's flat not angled You will be able to slip it behind the back seat and undo the 12 mm bolts on the brackets that are holding the top and the back of the battery down if you loosen those and pull the back ones in the top ones out you can lift the two brackets on each end of the battery up about two inches. If you put a board over the spare tire well now with one gloved hand you can lift up on the back of the battery And slide it forward back first now you're at an angle the front cover will lift off better over the ECU and the 8mm nuts you can undo and just lay them to the side now you can lift the front of the battery and pull it to be level with the right side and it'll be sitting on the board in the spare tire well if you want you can work right there if you have a nice table in your garage you can pick it up and put it on a gorilla cart it's like a yard cart and pull it over to your table and slide it on your table and work on it there choices

 

Yeah and then this article they're amazed at being 350,000 on a Prius battery I made that on mine while I made 300,000 without any problems the car was a dream all the way up until the battery failure from 0 to 300,000 mi this car had nothing tires 12 volts I'm trying to think if anything else there's nothing . No alternators because there isn't one no fluids nothing 300,000 at 297 I got scared and I drained the CVT the inverter and the radiator coolant The coolants were fine Pink still looking and perfect shape not broken down nothing The CVT fluid was dark but not alarmingly dirty I changed it all out anyway put on front brake pads nothing else in 300,000 find me another car like this that does this I need one I'm going to have to buy another Gen 2 because there is no other Gen 3's and 4 is certainly aren't going to do it they all died at 250 240 etc I got them sitting right here that out there in the wild would need $4,000 worth of work engine replacements the whole nine I'm getting ready to do my 13 and I'll have $1,800 in engine and transmission sitting in the car we'll see what else is wrong once we get to that point certainly the 3 has bombed compared to the 2. The 3 was more of a girl's car with its two-tone interior very plasticky look at anything and it breaks type of interior is not my idea of any kind of vehicle

 

The fan is running continuously because the ECU is put that on because it thinks the battery is draining and charging at alarming rates on mine when this started to happen I had my battery tray clear so I could look at the battery when I would feel on the bottom edge of the battery with my fingers in the middle and out towards one edge I think on the right side it was way warmer than the rest of the battery like say 118° versus 90 and the fan was on all the time I mean running wide open you could hear it I opened the fan and the ductwork up it was whistle clean even the white fan blades the white plastic was not great it was completely pure white like it did not dug up dust dirt and crap so I pretty much left it alone I checked the plug cleaned the plug very well put it back together with dielectric grease or silicone in the plug and then I wrapped that said plug with the stuff called zip tape from the construction industry and then I moved that plug farther back towards the sheet metal of the car so if the gasket of the trunk leaks and the water runs down it does not hit the wiring or the plug anymore so it ruins or rusts out the pins in the plug stops the fan from working That's taken care of

 

The way I understand it and have observed it is when the hybrid battery starts really messing up going from green to blue to purple and back and vice versa seemingly charging instantaneously all that acting up when both of my cars it has been through this have done this type of behavior and the battery was going bad in the codes indicated such my fans were running full tilt no matter what I did in text stream nothing the fans running full tilt did all the connection checking and the pin checking it's none of that it's something that the computer does because the battery is cycling through voltage so fast or something it thinks it's going to be getting hot or it needs to be getting hot so it's going to put the fan on and keep it cool no matter what reality is so there's some kind of programming and an eProm that's been told when you have these messing up battery conditions the fan needs to be on full tilt just in case I guess