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Tow Truck Driver Reverse Polarity Jumpstart

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Cleoprius, Dec 27, 2021.

  1. Cleoprius

    Cleoprius New Member

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    I appreciate learning more of people’s thoughts on this matter. I’m still trying to do some fact-finding to help me figure out what to do. (I’m also making other arrangements. I did call two hybrid shops, but they wouldn’t provide me an estimate for replacing the 100 amp fuse. Another shop sounds promising, however.)

    From what other people have written on PriusChat, when a Prius has accidentally been charged with reverse polarity, it’s common for the smaller fuses to be blown as well as the 100 amp fuse, and sometimes other things have turned on. I don’t recall hearing about anything being melted, burn marks, or the 120/125 amp fuse on the 12v battery getting blown as well.

    What I find concerning now is statements being made by AAA (shown below) that don’t seem consistent with what I’ve read elsewhere, and which might be wrong.

    (By the way, I hadn’t actually filled out a formal complaint to AAA and still haven’t. After more than a week had passed since the tow, I had called the membership services about the tow truck driver, that the alarm system had sounded continuously while his portable battery was connected to the 12v battery, that the 100 amp fuse and three fuses had been blown, and that perhaps he had unknowingly used reverse polarity that might have caused some damage. Later, I had provided more information to an AAA investigator about what the Toyota service department had texted me.)

    Take a look at the AAA response here:

    “Even if the AUX battery was good before the service it would not be armed by a reverse polarity jump start. Before that happens the jump start pack cables and the main power cable to and from the AUX battery would melt and you would have signs of burned cable insulation, that is if the battery did not have a protection fuse, which it does since it states in the text that they found the 125amp fusible for the AUX battery in good condition, see below highlighted text. A reverse polarity jump start would have damaged the fuse, it wasn't. Therefore, a reverse polarity jump start did not occur and the Aux battery was not armed…”

    I don’t recall other people whose Prius had experienced a reverse polarity jump talking about so much damage from a reverse polarity jump, including blowing the 125 amp fuse as well. And if the 12v battery is completely dead, perhaps that would be another reason why there wouldn’t be the additional damage specified above.

    I also don’t know why he’s talking about the 12v battery being armed. The car hadn’t restarted. What does it mean for a severely depleted or dead 12v battery to be armed? (The objective of the tow truck driver might have been just to try to restart the car so he could put it into neutral and move it to his truck, not to charge the battery.)
     
    #41 Cleoprius, Jan 6, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2022
  2. Q*bertZ

    Q*bertZ Member

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    When I hooked mine up backwards the fuse on the positive side of the battery did not blow(in the trunk.) The 100 amp under the hood and two others blew. Fuses on drivers side of engine compartment between fender and power invertor. Hard to get to. Tight fit. They don't know what they are talking about. If your 100 amp fuse under the front hood blew some one hooked it up backward at some point.
     
  3. Q*bertZ

    Q*bertZ Member

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    I'd fix it for you but I'm in South Carolina
     
  4. Q*bertZ

    Q*bertZ Member

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    A plane ticket would be less than having a dealer fix it. I fixed mine and everything seems to be working fine on mine.
     
  5. Q*bertZ

    Q*bertZ Member

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    Also, there were never any burned wires. No melted wires either.
     
  6. Cleoprius

    Cleoprius New Member

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    Lol! I’d be sorely tempted to pay your way! If only there wasn’t a pandemic going on that could jeopardize your health along the way!

    Thanks for confirming you didn’t have any burned or melted wires, and that the fuse in your trunk hadn’t blown.

    I would normally be really interested in trying to replace the amp myself but after breaking my right arm and my left thumb at different times a few years ago, I lost lots of grip strength and my current ability to unscrew things is pathetic!
     
  7. Q*bertZ

    Q*bertZ Member

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    I've had covid twice. I don't think's it's going to kill me.
     
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  8. Cleoprius

    Cleoprius New Member

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    Thanks for describing your reasoning above, although my impression is that other people who accidentally jumpstarted with reverse polarity did not always fry their computers. Some were able to get the car to work after replacing the 100 amp fuse. Still, getting the codes might be really helpful.

    Would the Toyota service department have been able to get the car connected to techstream? (I’m not familiar with techstream.)

    According to some notes, there had been three fuses blown:

    THRO 15 AMP (what’s that?)
    AM2 15 AMP
    15 AMP Dome

    Also written in the notes:

    Inspect for parasitic draw 35 MA

    (The blown 100 amp fuse was found afterwards. Would that cause a parasitic draw?)

    “DC/DC Converter needs removal to access relay block for disassambly”

    There wasn’t anything written about what else was done to locate the parasitic draw.
     
  9. ammdb

    ammdb Active Member

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    In my case reverse polarity jumper cables caused the 100A and a few smaller fuses to blow in the engine compartment fuse box. The 125A fuse by the battery was okay, and no arc or burn marks anywhere. Car ran like normal after replacing the fuses.

    There's no reason to remove the DC to DC converter to replace a fuse. I hate to say this, but sounds like you're dealing with incompetent or dishonest service techs.
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Remember this picture from post #2?

    [​IMG]

    If they're talking about the 100 amp fuse, it is in that module 82620B with its legs bolted down on the sides, insulated inside 82623, all buried down inside 82670A, with 82674 blocking access from the bottom, and all of that is squashed in real good next to the inverter.

    I've never tried replacing that particular fuse in a Gen 1, so I can't report on whether it's possible without moving the inverter out of the way, but it could also be one of those situations where even if you can, to prove a point, you won't have saved any time that way.
     
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    A parasitic draw is normal if it is as low as yours. 35ma is 35 thousands of an amp which might take a month of no operation to drain your 12v battery to the point it would not allow operation. It is a continuous drain on the 12v battery to keep certain computers operational. You are trying to validate a suspicion that the dealer is conspiring against you which is highly unlikely. More likely is conflicting opinions on this forum.
     
  12. Cleoprius

    Cleoprius New Member

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    rjparker, “Inspect for parasitic draw 35 MA” had come from notes that had been texted to me.

    You’ve explained this is very low and “is a continuous drain on the 12v battery to keep certain computers operational.”

    From what you’ve written, it sounds like the 35 mA drain is normal. Maybe I hadn’t understood correctly what was being conveyed by the very brief notes. I thought he had meant:

    What’s causing the parasitic drain of 35 mA?

    But another way of interpreting what was written is:

    Inspected for parasitic drain. The measurement is only 35 mA. No need to investigate further.

    I’ve been trying to make sense of what happened. I think that the service department had been under a lot of pressure and that at least one important team member had had to leave suddenly, perhaps due to Omicron. The majority of mechanics there would not be certified Prius technicians, so they could be at a loss about how to handle some Prius eccentricities and possibly making some incorrect interpretations.

    I appreciate learning so much more here than I would have otherwise. The difference of opinions also shows how difficult it can be to figure out what’s going on, too.
     
  13. Cleoprius

    Cleoprius New Member

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    Chapman, thanks for posting that picture again. Is there a picture of the inverter there? If so, what number is it?

    I’m wondering how I can help a non-hybrid mechanic figure out how best to replace the fuse, even if that means removing or moving the inverter. (I think someone had written it might be possible to move the inverter to one side, but I don’t know if that was actually done.)
     
    #53 Cleoprius, Jan 6, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2022
  14. Cleoprius

    Cleoprius New Member

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    ammdb, you’ve helped me realize a bit more that maybe the folks at the service department aren’t fully knowledgeable about how to deal with this matter. Maybe they never wanted to work on my car at all, ergo the unreasonably high estimate.
     
    #54 Cleoprius, Jan 6, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2022
  15. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Take the attached instructions to a decent mechanic and ask how much they would charge. You don't have to understand each step, the mechanic will understand. The part number is 90982-08246. $15 on Amazon.
     

    Attached Files:

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  16. Q*bertZ

    Q*bertZ Member

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    I didn't have to take off the invertor, either. I did have to take off the, I think, 3 relays attached to the side of the invertor(drivers front fender side) . And, yes, it is tight. The wires almost don't allow the 100amp fuse box to be pulled up far enough to loosen the bolts on the 100 amp fuse. At first I thought the 100 amp fuse could just be unplugged and tried to grab it with needle nose pliers. That doesn't work. Would have been nice though.
     
  17. ammdb

    ammdb Active Member

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    Here's a picture from when I replace the 100 fuse. Note the four connectors to the left of the fuse box. Once the cables are disconnected and harness moved out of the way, there's just enough room to pry the fuse box away from the engine compartment wall so it can be pulled out. The cables may be the ones going to the DC to DC converter, but there's no need to disassemble anything.

    upload_2022-1-7_10-9-52.png
     
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  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It might be just as easy to buy that fuse, for around the same price, at the parts counter of your local dealer.

    Fake fuses are big business these days. They work fine, under all conditions except the ones you want fuses for.
     
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  19. Cleoprius

    Cleoprius New Member

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    Thanks for sharing that picture!

    Is the fuse itself screwed in? The reason for pulling out the fuse box is to be able to unscrew the fuse from the side?

    I imagine the Toyota mechanics, if they’re not certified, don’t feel authorized to pull the fuse box up because they don’t know they can do that safely.

    It probably also takes a lot of arm and back strength to try to lift out the fuse box when it’s pretty far back from the front.

    But it looks doable in less than an hour, right?

    Do all the 1st generation Priuses look alike under the hood? The picture of a 2001 Prius would look like the 2002 Prius?
     
    #59 Cleoprius, Jan 7, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2022
  20. Cleoprius

    Cleoprius New Member

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    This is very, very helpful.

    Although it might not be necessary to follow all the instructions, they’re a great backup to have on hand, just in case.