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Prius Auxillary Battery Size

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Mr. Nick Guy, Jan 4, 2022.

  1. Mr. Nick Guy

    Mr. Nick Guy New Member

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    This is my first winter with a recently purchased 2008 Prius from a local mechanic. Once the temp dropped below 32, the battery has failed to hold a charge overnight. I drove it 20 miles yesterday and it was completely dead this morning. I am about to check for some parasitic draw, but I have noticed that the battery (which the mechanic said he had recently added) is 34B20R-AGM which has 34 aH and is smaller than the stock battery. I've seen that this battery is used in the Prius-C, but I am not seeing anyone talking about using it in a base prius.

    The mechanic did admit that he does not work on priuses often, so I am thinking he did not buy an appropriately sized battery, but found one that fits and is cheaper. Can anyone give any insight on whether this is the likely culprit for the battery not holding a charge overnight or if I should take it into a shop.

    Thank you.
     
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  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    What brand is it, and was there a date code on top of the battery?

    Since owning the vehicle, how many hours per week do you drive?

    Some here use a 'mobility' battery, with more capacity and less cost : Fitting mobility 12volt AGM battery. | PriusChat

    FYI : you're moderated until you've posted 5 times.
     
  3. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    I suggest that you ask the selling "mechanic" to help you test the battery.
    It should be charging (above 13 volts) when running and not discharging when OFF.
    It is possible that it has never been fully charged.
    It is also possible that it was "used" when installed.
     
  4. Mr. Nick Guy

    Mr. Nick Guy New Member

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    @SFO It's a Duralast and the datecode is 6/21.

    I am not a daily driver currently. I can get into the habit of keeping it charged more readily in the winter, but I work from home and drive about 20 miles (1-2 hrs) / week.

    @sam spade 2 Yeah, I'm not too thrilled with this guy, but I tested the battery when running and got 13.6. I have not tested when off yet, but I will tomorrow as I'm testing for draw. Could be possible it was never fully charged. I'd be surprised if 20 miles didn't charge it, but I've been surprised before. The datecode on the battery is 6/21 and I bought it in August, so I don't think it's used, but I don't know for sure.
     
  5. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    From Ed The Fox:

    Battery 101.
    Here's a minor load:
    With car off measure voltage at front jump point. Do not ever measure battery voltage at the battery itself that is meaningless it only matters what the voltage looks like on your dc volt meter at the front black fuse box input which is the front jump point. The front jump bolt is bolting down the main power cable from the battery after it goes through a 100 amp fuse in the black plastic assy that's bolted to the top of the pos post of the battery..
    Then with car STILL OFF turn on headlights in high beam for 5 minutes. Shut the high beams off after 5 let it sit a minute then with car STILL OFF measure dc again at front JP bolt. Your car will fail that test big time.
    A healthy battery will not drop 1 volt on this very minor load test.[/QUOTE]
     
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  6. Another

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  7. Mr. Nick Guy

    Mr. Nick Guy New Member

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    I have a NOCO Genius10 10amp smart battery charger I use for maintaining a camper battery in the winter. Is that overkill for a 35aH battery? I'd rather not buy a new charger.
     
  8. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    20 miles a week does not even come close to keeping that 12 volt battery happy.

    And your hybrid battery will not be very happy either. Your right at the point in the cars age when the hybrid battery will start showing degraded performance and not driving it will excite corrosion on those battery connections and eventually lead to failure. Really common on a g2 read all the bad hybrid battery posts on theG2 forum,

    keep an eye on the hybrid battery performance onthe mfd. If it’s in purple all the time and takes a long time to get it to 3 blue bars that’s stage 1 of battery failure.

    Take a close look at the hybrid battery level before you store the car for the week. Record it. If it shows much lower charge level when you start it again it’s very unhappy.

    Btw Batteries Plus sells a 12 volt Duracell that will drop right in. Im over Optima battery’s not impressed at all with those batterys.
     
  9. Mr. Nick Guy

    Mr. Nick Guy New Member

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    @edthefox5 I've been keeping an eye on battery performance and so far it's been okay. I did check after a 5 day sit and the hybrid battery had dropped one bar (from around 80%-70%) I will keep a better eye on it though and maybe start going to the good grocery store farther away more often.

    I'll check out the rest of the forum as well for tips for low mileage users. I'm happy to take it for extra rides if that will keep the hyb battery happy. I'm getting a battery charger today for the 12v and hopefully fix my non-starting issue at least. I'm starting a new job in the spring which I will be driving much more for, but I don't want to damage it between now and then.
     
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  10. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Don't know much about that charger, but other members will. Best to keep it at or under 4amps, can you select the amperage?
     
  11. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    I use something similar... As long as its still smart than it's ideal... By smart, I mean the amps are dropped as the battery reaches full charge...
     
  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The 34B20R-AGM size battery was OEM for the Gen 2 Prius models that DO NOT have the SKS system. Does your car have SKS? If so, your car should have the S46B24R model battery.

    If you have SKS, you can help the small battery live longer by turning the SKS off using the small button labelled "KEY", which is located on the dash under the steering wheel. The amount of driving you do may not be adequate to keep the smaller battery charged if it's carrying the load expected of the larger battery.

    Your 12v battery is charged from the DC/DC converter in the inverter when the car is in READY mode. Unfortunately, this charge current is relatively small compared to what many people are used to seeing in an 'alternator' type vehicle and will NOT adequately charge a depleted battery in a 'normal' amount of time.
     
  13. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    When running, you are testing the charging system voltage, NOT the battery itself.

    13.6 is right about float voltage and is charging little to none.
    That probably means that the charging system thinks it is fully charged.

    If it IS fully charged, after a few hours rest it should read about 12.8 volts.
     
  14. Mirage42

    Mirage42 Member

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    The base voltage of Gen2 is 13.8 V. If we replace the 5A fuse near the battery with a p600m 6A diode, the voltage will be 14.4V. This simple procedure will allow you to charge your battery better in winter.
     
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  15. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Got any links on where to get the p600m 6A diode? Also how to learn more about how it works? Early model Honda Insights have a wire you can snip to provide constant charge to 12v from battery pack rather than a variable charge and this sounds like an even better trick than that. Or maybe I misunderstood? What do other people think?
     
  16. Mirage42

    Mirage42 Member

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    How it works: With this circuit, the ECU monitors the charge level of the battery. A voltage drop of 0.3 - 0.6 V occurs on the diode. The ECU increases the voltage by this value.
    You can use another diode, but you need to choose according to the voltage drop.
    p.s. This solution has been tested by many.
     

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    #16 Mirage42, Jan 23, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2022
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  17. Another

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  18. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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  19. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Causing the battery to be CONSTANTLY charged at 14.4 volts is NOT a good thing to do.
    That is a throw-back to the days of mechanical voltage regulators......and is harder on the batteries than not quite charging them up all the way.

    AND.....in most circumstances, forcing more charging current into a battery while it is cold accomplishes nothing useful.
    When the charging goes away and the battery gets thoroughly cold again, you are back pretty close to where you started.

    So....overall a BAD thing to be messing with.
    The circuit has lost it's fuse protection; the diode won't do the same thing.

    How many of those "many" who have tested it ended up screwing up their charging circuit costing them a LOT of money to fix. ???
     
  20. Mirage42

    Mirage42 Member

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    1. I want to note that Gen3, Prius C have thermal compensation and the voltage in cold weather reaches 14.6V. If you have an AGM battery, then in the summer you need to remove the diode.
    2. The diode can be put in series with the fuse. Nobody messed up their car.
    3. All this is done voluntarily.
    Ps. Do you have experience operating a vehicle in temperatures below -35 degrees Celsius (-31 F)?
     
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