I’m not sure if the metal casing on this battery is badly warped or what. But I had to replace a module and for the life of me I can not reassemble the pack. The white plastic end that connects to the compression bars is just not long enough to fit around the metal posts. I should’ve known by how much of a pain in the nice person it was to get off, that it wouldn’t go back together. Anyone have some mystical tips for this?
Can you get some carpenter clamps over the plastic plates I'd have to go out and look and see but I think this can be accomplished I have a gen 3 and 2 pack laying out here I have to go out and look but they both if I remember correctly assemble very similarly and I think I could get my carpenters clamps over the plastic plates to squeeze against the plastic plates gently and add a eighth Turner so on the clamp every few minutes until they just slip in you want to do this slowly obviously
Any signs of module warpage? Usually it's visible from the underside. Make sure all the modules are lined up. If one or two are not lined up that can be the problem. And for best results remove rack from chassis by undoing all 28 bolts underneath, then get all of them properly mounted on rack, then place whole pack on chassis.
No warpage, just needed to manipulate the metal case a bit....but. Ive lost 4 bus bars/ Any obvious issues with using washers, strip of metal/copper? Im not really willing to shell out 50$ for a full set when i only lost 4
One thing to consider when replacing with random washers and things, is the longer term performance of the fix. Those factory buss bars may have been treated for anti corrosion and engineered for low resistance and high current flow, whereas washers, random strips and such might work in the short term, but break down with some use, especially if of a dissimilar metal. Do you really want to risk having to pull and reservice the battery pack in a few months after your fix? Who knows what corrosions might effect joint continuity, or possibly overheat and melt an inadequate copper strip placed there. A small resistance appearing at a buss bar joint can cause the computer to start flagging codes on the battery again, causing a new diagnostic headache for you. Not saying it can't be done, just don't go half assed about it. Just because it works at first, doesn't mean it'll work for the long run. Don't use washers. At least go to an electricians store, bring them a sample of what you're trying to replace, tell them your issue, and get proper copper buss bars & replacements. There is always stuff you can adapt. They should steer you right.
Worth a shot! Now that I think about it those bus bars have a specified resistance that I should be so cavalier with