Preemptive 12V Battery Replacement

I have 105k on my 2013 Prius v on the original Yuasa 12 volt battery. I would recommend periodically load testing your 12 volt battery, rather than preemptive replacement.

 

Just because it tests good today is no guarantee that it will still be good tomorrow.
5 years is about my limit.
But one does whatever they think is right.
YMMV.

 

$40 for a small Li-Ion booster battery would give me more comfort than spending $220 preemptively for a replacement battery. I have a 9 year old original battery in my 2013 (my Uber car), and 5 years on the wife's 2017. Also, we have AAA plus on both cars, and they are Pros that know how to use their use Jump Boxes.

But as @sam spade 2 says:
But one does whatever they think is right.
YMMV

 

I like having a decent battery and a lithium jump start box, both in the vehicle. A brand new fully charged battery can be discharged in the morning if the hatch is not fully shut or the map lights were used.

I want to know how to use the key to enter the car and verify it works. Many don't know how, discover the key is not cut or find the mechanical lock has failed. Plus know how and where to use the lithium jump box. Finally know where to position the key fob to start the car if the fob battery is dead.

 

All the "preemptive" and 'peace of mind"; reading between the lines I hear "I don't really know where my battery is at".

There's a new gen of 12 volt battery testers, that cut through the mystery. The prosumer level testers are around $50~80 , do the same test as the pro-level testers the dealerships and automotive retailers employ.

 

Most major auto parts stores in the states will do a free test with a pro tester (Protester?), which will satisfy most needs.

 

I am wondering about the pro-testing... I have asked three different parts stores in two states to check my AGM. Not One used a tester with an AGM setting.

Does it not matter at all?

 

My Clore Solar BA5 asks for battery type, has two AGM options: rectangular case and spiral wound. The Optima Yellow Top is an example of the latter. I believe the Ancel testers are similar?

 

Well that's what I've heard. As it is, they hook it up, look at CCA, don't adjust for AGM, and tell me if it has good or bad cca...

Almost worth the $50-60 just so I get an answer I have confidence about

 

The way that most testers work, no it doesn't matter.

 

I confess I replaced the 12 volt battery on my v at 7 years, but the head lights got visibly brighter as the car started.

 

Agree. (Can this be real?)

 

FYI, I tested 8 years old OEM regular flooded lead-acid battery from our PathHy. I knew the battery was weak. The car did not start twice in the last week when the temp went down to -26F. I don't exactly know if the Pathfinder Hybrid 12v battery does the engine cranking or not, but at that low temp, the lithium-ion traction battery was likely to be not working either.

Anyway, I did replace the 12v battery with a new AGM 12v battery. When it failed to start before being replaced, it had 12.48v and the in-vehicle load test result said GOOD BATTERY albeit only 48% CCA registered.


The same battery after fully charging it and removing it from the vehicle, the load test using the same Ancel BA101 digital load tester said REPLACE.


Just for fun, I tested the same battery with two additional load testers. KONNWEI KW600 Digital Battery Analyzer and Solar 1874 Carbon Pile Battery Load Tester. Both testers gave REPLACE results. So, the in-vehicle test may give you a false result. Having second and third tests giving the same results confirmed the result of the Ancel tester.

 

Hmmm... so I decided to read up on the differences between AGM and wet:

* AGM requires voltage/amp controlled charger to avoid overcharging, because it's sealed. THAT is why an older charger is a Bad Thing.
* AGM has lower internal resistance, so results are not identical

Time to update my tools a bit. I've ordered both a tester and a desulfating smart trickle charger. Who knows, I may actually get more life out of my batteries...

 

In your research apparently you didn't notice that AGM batteries are way WAY less likely to produce enough sulfate to be a problem.
Therefore "desulfating" is not really a consideration.

AND.....I hope what you ordered really is not a "trickle charger" but a smart tender type charger.
Haven't we talked about that difference before......maybe more than once ???

 

I'll be more specific: I bought a smart charger that has the *ability* to:
- desulfate (we have both AGM and wet batteries; not concerned if it is not an issue)
- trickle/tend charge
- and do a nice job of normal charging at 12v/8amps
- for under $30 with thousands of five star reviews. Not a bad risk in my book.

No I did NOT notice AGM batteries are less likely to produce sulfate. AFAIK it is a question of how the battery is used. If always at ~full charge, not a problem. I would not be surprised if our use/abuse of the 12v battery might produce more sulfate than normal. We have drawn it down via a 12->110v inverter overnight in Ready mode (camping nearby), or even in Aux mode... thus giving the battery less-than-full charge for significant amounts of time.

In any case, I needed a smart charger anyway, and paid nothing for the extra features. So, a VERY cheap experiment!

My expectation? Probably need to swap out our decade old battery soon anyway

 

Our 2010 pretty much LIVES on a charger (CTEK 4.3). Probably necessity: our average time-between-drives is maybe 5 days, sometimes close to 2 weeks. But they’re typically good long drives.

 

I am at almost 9 years (2013) and 150K on the original 12V every oil change I ask the Toyota dealer to check and they say it is fine and I have had no signs of issues but I imagine my day is coming soon to change the battery I am honestly surprised it lasted this long. Knocks on wood!

 

My Prius v 2015 still run with original 12v Battery. Before starting car Voltage shown in Hybrid Assistant app is only 11.3v. No hesitation on starting the car.

 

Not much leeway at 11.3 and definitely in poor shape. Even a short period of lights left on before an automatic turnoff may strand you.