Gen 2 Cat and O2 sensor stolen

if you have insurance, claim it.

If you have to pay out of pocket, get an aftermarket one on Amazon or Ebay for $120ish and buy an 02 sensor. Install and get back on the road again

 

There are any number of aftermarket cats available for your car (so long as state emission regs allow it). Get a quote from your local repair shop. Others here might have specific recommendations for particular brands to try or avoid.

As far as the car "cutting out", it's not unheard of for a cut wire for the O2 sensor (the heater power wire) to short to something and blow a fuse. Usually locating and replacing it will restore ICE operation.

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Did you turn it in on your insurance? I don't know your scenario, but it is possible that you might only be responsible for the deductible.

Edited to add: Sorry. Someone already brought this up. It would be nice if there were a straight pipe solution with a bunghole for the O2 sensor for those of us in states where emissions testing are not required.

 

That didn't look like a Gen 2 Prius.

For a Gen 2, excepting a C.A.R.B. state, the best option is shown it this amateur YouTube video.

He references this cat sold on Amazon

And this O2 sensor.

 

This seems like a great option, but what is to prevent them from cutting out the new aftermarket installation? Do the thieves know that there isn't much money in the aftermarket pipe after they climb under your car?

 

The professional thief will know it's a cheap aftermarket cat.

Th rank amateur won't and might attempt to steal it.

I'd throw on the cheapest cat shield to deter the amateur.

 

I get cats from

Catalytic Converter Fits 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Toyota Prius 1.5L | eBay

pay the muffler shop 80 bucks to install it, pick up a o2 sensor off ebay as well for 25 bucks, and the install one of these

Cat Shield Catalytic Converter Security Protection For 2004 - 2009 Toyota Prius | eBay

because the idiots are too stupid to tell a oem from a cheap cat. I have these plates on all my prius and have not had an issue since.

I keep a spare cat in the garage in case I find a good deal on craigslist. If your valve stem seals are burning oil, this will fail promptly. Just saying. You gotta fix any oil burning issue or these will only last like 6 months.

 

This eBay seller isn’t very reliable with a good catalytic. I bought 3 from them and one of them was bad. But for $100, I guess they can’t all be perfect

 

I have bought 3 myself, all worked fine. One that I took off my car that was burning oil and put on a car that had hers stolen started setting the code 6 months later, and she doesnt burn oil. Thats why I say they are not great and certainly not great if your burning oil. I tell everyone not to run synthetic in their gen2, just conventional oil.

 

I don't expect these catalytic converters to last very long, 2 years maybe.....But at the rate the thieves are cutting these (they even cut off these fakes ones because they don't know any better), it wouldn't hurt losing $100 as oppose to losing $2500 from OEM.

Why do you tell people not to use synthetic? I don't know if that's any worse than regular conventional oil

 

If the insurance company said $4000 is too high, they still owe you the loss claim. When my brother had his stolen, the payout was $2900 minus his deductible. So that's the cash payout amount they still owe you, regardless if you get a new catalytic installed.

You should follow up with the insurance company to get the payout for the loss claim

 

The insurance company owes you to restore the cat with the same make and model that was stolen. Telling you to find a cheaper alternative is ridiculous.

 

Unless they total the car and pay you a lot less.

 

Especially if you just roll over and don’t argue effectively

 

Many here will pull each fuse for a visual inspection and check continuity (ohms) with a digital multimeter. Some fuses to focus on are: AM2, EFI, and ETCS in the underhood fuse box, and: IGN and GAUGE in the interior fuse box (under the left side of the dash).

Personally, I prefer to use a 12V "test light" (essentially a small light bulb with a pointy probe on one end and a wire with a ground clip on the other). Attach the clip to a clean metal ground point on the car and then touch the point to each end of all the fuses (some fuses only have 12V when the ignition is switched on). If a fuse has power on one side (ie- the test light illuminates) but not the other, then that fuse is blown.

Side question- does the "speedometer" and all the warning lights (aka the Combination Meter) turn on when you try to ready up the car? Having the CM not work and preventing the car from turning on is a fairly common fault on a Gen2.

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