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Topping off A/C Refrigerant

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Alex Wilsey, Apr 6, 2022.

  1. Alex Wilsey

    Alex Wilsey Junior Member

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    Hello all,

    My partner has an '05 with about 220k on the clock. Runs like a dream, especially after our amazing experience with greentec auto and their battery swap. Four months going and still holding very strong. He is very pleased.

    One thing that I want to tackle is the A/C running cool, but not super cold like it used to. It was warm a few weeks ago and it ran cool, definitely lower temp than ambient, but not nearly as cold as previously. My guess is that it needs the refrigerant topped off, but I don't want to ruin it by putting the wrong type of refrigerant/oil in the system. If there is a very slow leak, I don't intend on getting too crazy, but I think that it could be the cabin filter since the air volume seems to be diminished.

    I am going to check the cabin filter this weekend and see if it is junked up, which I imagine it probably is and causing a lot of clogging up. At times, the climate control does tend to squeak, but goes away and works fine (blower motor?). If I need to add a small amount of refrigerant if the pressure is low, do I need to add ND-11 oil? I understand I sound like an idiot here, so no need to bash me for my ignorance. Just trying to gather solid information on how to proceed. I know that I need to use PURE R-134a, which I can handle. I'd like to do this myself, but I don't want to cause damage.

    Summer maintenance is also as follows: replace front struts (entire assemblies), rear driver strut assembly (passenger done in fall 2021), Rear shoes and drums, tire re-balance for highway vibration (started recently after tire replacement, I think a weight flew off), alignment after strut replacements, catalytic converter protection (weld on some rebar, steel saw blades, paint, etch, sticker, maybe shield but recent experiences say they are not worth the money) and refinish headlights.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I top off 04 09 quite regularly usi g reg 134 oil and refrig. My personal car runs HC 12A but they no like that here. Like colder than R12 here . Nothing failed because of oil or refrig i use as it's been used by me for over 20 years in hundred vehicles some on road still with Air still working.good luck
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I top off 04 09 quite regularly usi g reg 134 oil and refrig.

    I put a gun to my head and pull the trigger quite regularly. I've been lucky so far since I've always used crappy ammo and they've always been duds.

    Now, for real. If you've merely had a very slow degradation of performance over many years, it's unlikely you've had any significant oil loss. I wouldn't worry about adding oil at all. Just use the procedure from the repair manual. It's not the 'most perfect' way to maintain the system, but it works well if done carefully.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    What's the sight glass do ? That's wer ya start . If you want to just do something to be doing it take some synthetic air conditioning fixing stuff whatever that crap is called i got three or four cans around here hook it up give it a shot or two while the car is running while looking at the sight glass you want to see bubbles every few seconds in the sight glass you don't want it to be solid clear you don't want tons of bubbles you want to see a little bit about very little and then measure your temperature coming out of your vents i bet they'll be very cold now i'll go play with my gun which i don't actually own to be honest about it never have maybe i'll just go fly the warrior instead
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  6. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    If needed because of a leak, the recommended recharge method is to remove the refrigerant, weigh it to determine if there is loss, ideally find and fix the leak, vacuum test and recharge by weighing it in. Even with a sight glass this system is different as it is a variable capacity (speed) system.
     
  7. Alex Wilsey

    Alex Wilsey Junior Member

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    I have read his stuff. It is very hard for me to understand.
     
  8. Alex Wilsey

    Alex Wilsey Junior Member

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    Thank you! Do you know where I can find the repair manual? Is it somewhere in the forum?
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    We have a wiki page giving the various ways to access it.
     
  10. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Look at this post I threw up a while back. May want to read the whole thread also. It includes the repair manual chapter.

    A/C works but no cold air. | PriusChat
     
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  11. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    You have a leak in the system. You can keep messing around or maybe over charge it and damage the compressor. You can easily damage the compressor compressor running it on low or not charging it properly with a can from an auto parts store.

    Take it to a local ac shop there all very familiar with a Prius. They'll put die in it and find the leak. Hopefully its a loose coupling.

    Its a 17 year old car so Don't be surprised if its the evap coil under the dash. Pretty common. Pretty expensive. The real $$ bingo though is if the compressor fails. That's really expensive. So...tik tok.

    Mine failed at the evap coil owner says they see it alot in a Prius. They knew what they are doing cause the ac was uncomfortably cold when they finished. Ran great. The ac system in a G2 is excellent if running properly.

    New evap $1100.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  13. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Holy moley....not every AC system that is weak has a catastrophic failure/leak that needs immediate component replacement or thousands of dollars of repair. .it's a 2005, jc. 17 years of usage. A typical brand new car off a dealer lot has an AC leak. EVERY automotive AC system has some amount of leakage. They are not 100% perfectly sealed systems!! A minor top off and most are ready to go for years again.

    Just like the people that keep claiming "'my car engine burns zero oil" and your car burnsa quart of oil every 5000 miles, so you need a new engine installed. Knuckleheads, every one of them.. Every car ever made with an internal combustion engine burns oil from the second the engine is started. Those who say they don't do not understand how an engine works.
     
  14. Gokhan

    Gokhan Senior Member

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    Leave A/C jobs to A/C shops. Not even regular shops are qualified to do them, let alone the owner.

    If there is a leak, it needs to be found, fixed, and the system evacuated before it is refilled. You will have to replace your A/C dryer as well.
     
  15. Alex Wilsey

    Alex Wilsey Junior Member

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    This is a really good way to put it. It has worked great and just runs cool instead of COLD. The car has 220,000 miles on it. There is no point in spending crazy money if it will take another 5-10 years to be low on refrigerant, which is what I presume the issue is. I have bigger fish to fry like finishing the strut replacements and rear brakes for ride quality. It was hot one day a few weeks ago and it ran cool, below ambient temp, but definitely not as cold as usual. I presume low refrigerant. central a/c units in homes lose a very small amount of charge over the course of time, hence why they need to be checked at about 20 years old, if the person chooses to replace it or chooses to recharge it if still functioning, same premise here with the system in a vehicle. So say I recharge it with PURE r134a and it runs cold for only 2 years, then I have to top it up again if we still have the car...I wouldn't care. Hell, for a year or even a summer I wouldn't care. For $50 or so to get the right recharge hose and can for the first go at it, I don't care at all. To have a local pro do it is $150, so it would take me over 6 years to cost me enough to have the part under the dash fixed. At that point, I'll just top it up once, if it gets bad again, I'll have a pro do a full vacuum, oil and refrigerant replacement for the $150. I am still doing my research before I choose to top it off myself. If I get cold feet, I'll have the proper shop do it.

    I'd also like to state that every single Gen 2 Prius I have been in has never had amazing air conditioning. I think the system is a little small for the cabin of the car, which is unusually large for its class. The Gen 3 seems to have a larger system. I plan on replacing the blower motor regardless because it does squeak sometimes, which probably is either a dragging spot or a bad bearing. It still works as intended 99.9% of the time, but once in a great while it will squeak when starting up the climate control.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That's just hard to do right, is all. The subcooling design of the system makes it hard to tell when the right charge is in it, other than by taking it all out and putting a known amount back in. (Extra credit for weighing the amount taken out to know how low it was.)

    For a shop that already has the equipment needed, that's an easy job.
     
  17. Alex Wilsey

    Alex Wilsey Junior Member

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    Just took a look at it! I don't think its catastrophic because it still blows cool, so I imagine there is a very very very slow leak that I am not going to get bent out of shape about.
     
  18. Alex Wilsey

    Alex Wilsey Junior Member

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    I may just take it to Toyota. I get a 20% discount at the one dealer for having over 200k on the vehicle. I'll have them do an evacuate and recharge.
     
  19. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Most of your assumptions on typical residential units are correct as are methods to top off the majority of residential and mechanically driven car compressors.

    Gen2 Prii, properly charged and free of non-condensables have cold AC that can easily handle our blazing Texas summers much less milder northern temps.

    However there are huge differences in Prius ac compressors versus typical home or auto ac. It is variable speed, variable capacity. Driven by an integrated three phase electric motor. Designed to allow cooling without the engine running. Expensive to replace and more complicated to charge.

    "Normal" home and auto ac compressors are single stage compressors. This makes standard systems easy to charge by a sight glass or by superheat or subcooling. They still need a clean system best achieved by pulling a vacuum and fixing leaks. Leaks are not a given when you have a hermetically sealed compressor on a residential system although flexible piping and coils on vehicles are likely leak locations. On a home system leak locations are usually the inside evaporator; a vehicle with flexible hoses and an exposed condenser have more leak locations.

    An electric variable speed compressor is different. Instead of running 100% all the time, it could be anywhere from 25% to 100% making it easy to overcharge. Sometimes people excessively overcharge these systems by 200-300%. Excessive charge can blow seals and ruin a very expensive Prius ac system. Which usually requires replacement of the condenser, the txv metering device and the compressor. In addition, the wrong refrigerant oil can short out the compressor windings. Bubbles in the sight glass is not definitive. Spending a couple of hundred is well worth the expense.

    36C10E46-909E-40B7-9B42-8A3B69854832.jpeg 43E602FD-AA52-4869-ABB8-1AA27A084009.jpeg
     
  20. Alex Wilsey

    Alex Wilsey Junior Member

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    I do know all of this. I'll probably just take it to Toyota to take care of it.