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P0A93, should I just order a pump?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by R-P, Apr 13, 2022.

  1. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    Red triangle of death, combined with engine symbol and one more. Also the red car with exclamationmark visible in information screen. Decided to drive 30km home rather than stop on the shoulder of the busy highway.

    Read out codes at home with simple bluetoothdongel and software and found P0A93. No stiring of the coolant visible in the reservoir (supposedly a sign that the pump works fine).

    Pump was replaced under warranty in 2013 (wasn't broken then, dealer just looked this up).

    Just order and replace the pump or should I investigate further? In nice clothing as I just came from a double courtcase and am going to my nieces birthday, so cannot do too much tinkering now or the wife will kill me. :ROFLMAO:
    Couldn't find the fuse for the pump in the description on the (enginecompartment) fusebox lid.
     
    #1 R-P, Apr 13, 2022
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Just replace the pump. Don’t worry about the fuse since your car is running
     
    #2 JC91006, Apr 13, 2022
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  3. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    Thanks. Takes a few days to order (70€ aftermarket or 150€ from Toyota) so I'll disassemble the pump tomorrow to see if it'll tide me over.
    When driving off with the Volvo (second car), it gave a "stop immediately, coolant low" warning...:D
    And my laptop died yesterday. All disasters come in threefold, so I'll be safe for the next couple of months...
     

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    #3 R-P, Apr 13, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2022
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    If you have a short drive that’s under 10 miles and the weather is not too warm you shouldn’t have any problems driving the prius without the pump working
     
    #4 JC91006, Apr 13, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2022
    R-P likes this.
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Be wary. This pump most often fails due to electrical reasons, many times resulting in a bit of smoke and blowing the AM2 fuse. If the AM2 blows, it totally kills the car. That's a bad thing to have happen while driving. Your pump may be a ticking bomb waiting to fully fail and open that fuse. The way around this is a single wire connector located just a few inches above and toward the passenger side of the engine compartment fusebox (assuming your Netherlands model is the same as NA Gen 2 models. Disconnecting the two halves of the connector will remove power to the pump. You can also reach down to the pump and unplug the power wires directly at the pump (just a bit more awkward to get to). If you end up blowing the AM2 while driving, you can do the same thing, unplug either connector and then remove the 15Amp AM2 and replace it with a spare that should be in the fusebox. Then change your underwear.
     
    #5 TMR-JWAP, Apr 13, 2022
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  6. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    [​IMG]
     
    #6 SFO, Apr 13, 2022
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  7. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    Pump is 'fine' but it doesn't always start up, slight push to the impellerblades (?) makes it go. New one it is...

    Currentdraw seems about 1.5A but my 2A powersupply struggles, so I think it has a higher intermittend peakdraw (1.5A was stable once I used two 2A PSU's in parallel, good old fashioned discrete PSU).
     
    #7 R-P, Apr 14, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2022
  8. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Not sure how many hours / kilometers were put on that OEM pump from 2013, but you should consider using OEM again.
     
    #8 SFO, Apr 14, 2022
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  9. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    Somewhere between 145 and 160 k km (~100k miles). It so happened that we can't miss the car for too long, and from the fast options (<< 1 week), the dealer was both the fastest (tomorrow morning if all goes well) and the cheapest (150.99€ vs. 292€ !!! Our prices always include all tax in case you want to compare)

    Still tempted to also order a Chinese version for 30$ to have as a back-up... The Chinese 2$ motors I bought for my mother-in-laws Dacia (= Renault sub-brand) seem to be lasting as long as the OEM 25$ motors.
     
    #9 R-P, Apr 14, 2022
  10. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Glad you went with OEM, as Fleabay options are hit or miss for many here. OEM pumps can also have shorter lifespans, with some OEM going up to 190K miles, and others failing at 60k miles or less. Guess it depends on DIY labor, and if you can afford to be stranded or not. But having an inexpensive back up pump is a great idea.
     
    #10 SFO, Apr 14, 2022
  11. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    I think @JC91006 and I did some calcs in prior thread ...pump seems to last 80-90k miles after they replaced it under warranty
     
    #11 wjtracy, Apr 15, 2022
  12. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    Front bolt (or is it a nut?) holding the bracket the pump is mounted on snapped when getting it out. :( And had to take off the bracket anyway because I couldn't get the pump out otherwise, but the bracket is fixed now with one bolt and the remainder of the snapped bolt, so it won't go anywhere.

    Used this vid, somewhat obscure that she unscrews the rear (3rd) bolt holding the inverter, but when I unscrewed that one a little, I had enough room to wiggle the old pump out and the new one in.

    Tested the new motor on my lab-powersupply and it still (intermittendly) maxed out the 2A currentlimit, but wasn't sure of polarity so only tested for a few seconds (wouldn't be the first time I destroy a new part before replacing it).

    Back in the car, the pump works fine again. I did have the 12V battery-ground removed while doing the work (I think this was advised to reset the errormessage) and refilled a little bit of coolingfluid.
     
    #12 R-P, Apr 16, 2022
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