Code P3000 and P0A84

I checked the relay today and it looked nasty, I was sure it must be that, so I cleaned it with a fine emery, sprayed it with contact cleaner spray (including connector) and again nothing...

However, this relay can be wrong inside, right?

I'll try to get another one and if it doesn't help, the connector may be bad, but I'll have to get a car electrician for that...

 

If you command the battery fan ON with a scantool or app, do you get "12V" at the + side of the blower motor (light green wire)?

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I'll try to measure it, but it's supposed to rain here tomorrow (I live in an apartment, so I'm fixing the car in the parking lot) and then I'll be working late every day, so I don't know when I'll get to it (plus it's supposed to rain again over the weekend, dammit)...

 

So today they delivered the relay and the rain stopped, so I mounted it and fan is working, the problem is solved!

However, I bought a Bosch replacement (because the original Denso is extremely expensive here, 149 USD after conversion from Czech crowns) and the new relay has 30A and the old one had 20A, will there be any problem with it? Anyway, the fuse for the fan is 10A.

I took a picture of the connector now and it doesn't look too good either, so if it starts to go wrong again, it will have to be redone...

And in the summer I'll have to siliconize the microcracks in the trunk (so far I've put the relay and the other connector in a bag and wrapped it with electrical tape).

 

That relay should work fine. Ideally you would get some "electronic contact cleaner" (comes in a spray can) and spray some in the connector. Then take the old relay and insert - remove it several times (with more cleaner) to try to improve that corroded terminal. Maybe use one male terminal from the old relay to check if that female terminal in the connector has good fit (compare that one to the one next to it).

If the terminal fits and works ok, I would put some silicon dielectric grease in the connector then put it together.

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I found some silicon dielectric grease for sale, but it says it's an electric insulator, isn't that counterproductive?

Or is it some other type of grease?

 

That question gets batted around here now and then. While it sounds odd, certain well-known dielectric greases, such as Nye 760G (which is also sold by Ford as Motorcraft XG-12 Electrical Grease) are very commonly and beneficially used to protect mating electrical contacts. It turns out that: (1) the grease itself is not electrically conductive, but (2) the contacting portions of mating connectors displace the grease from where the conduction happens, and meanwhile (3) it prevents oxygen from reaching the metal and forming an oxide film, which otherwise would impair conduction.

There is literature from Nye Lubricants explainng in more detail.

We had a thread a while back where the dead horse got beaten pretty soundly (we had a member who could never get past the "(1) the grease itself is not electrically conductive" part). The thread links to a bunch of relevant technical information and even two direct experiments conducted by PriusChat members.

I am not sure I would use just any old "silicon dielectric grease" that I found for sale somewhere, but certainly if it's the stuff like 760G or XG-12, it is made for that, and specified for it in the technical standards of eight electrical product manufacturers including five automakers.

 

Has anyone else had this problem? I'm having this issue now and I left for a long drive and got these codes. My bat2 temp got up to 138f. I limped home and now I'm looking for solutions.

 

Did you checked the connector(s) and the relay? It's usually corroded connector, but in my case it was the relay. It could be also broken fan, but that's rare.

 

It was the white connector! I had looked at it and saw it corroded and cleaned it but the fan was still not running. I tested continuity and only one of the wires had it. I cut the wires on both of the connectors and hard wired the 4 wires with butte connectors. It works great now!