2005 GEN 2 wont start red triangle

Disconnect the MAF and test it, be sure to clean up the throttle body/plate with a tooth brush and vodka/alcohol when in there.

Have you clicked on the 'snowflakes' looking icons to the left of the DTCs, this will show you the related INFs or subcodes (detail codes), knowing the INFs may help identify the underlying issue in a timely fashion.

 

Notice the three (3) digit subcode / INF, aka detail code :



If you don't already have the factory repair workups for your posted DTCs, a simple search here on PC should pull them up.

 

If the 12v system was dead at any time, the ecus have reverted to default values. This can easily lead to a Prius not starting. Mostly due to throttle body positioning issues. Clean the heck out of it, scrubbing the interior surfaces with a toothbrush and TB cleaner to remove all deposits. Clean the MAF while you're in there, because it's much easier to clean the TB if you remove the MAF sensor first. The temp bulb is the visible portion. The MAF sensor element is inside the cave. You'll understand when you pull it out.

 

It will never start with your POAA1 and POAA4 high voltage contactor stuck codes. It thinks high voltage can't be disconnected by the safety relays inside the battery assembly. Either a real big issue with the battery or the orange plug wasn't clicked in using the three steps. It is really useful to read and look up the codes. If the problem was corrected, the codes need to be cleared.

 

That's what FREEZEframe data is, a "snapshot" of what the ecu saw when it set the code. That way you can understand what the operating conditions were, and sometimes you might find a significant clue (example- 12V battery voltage might be crazy low).

You might want to view and save all the freezeframe stuff, clear all the codes- then see what comes back immediately when you try to ready up again.


Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Three things:

1. Reprogramming is almost never needed. In fact it can lead to still other issues if done incorrectly. Such as wrong versions or followup procedures and configurations not done. I think advice suggesting Techstream just compounds problems when not in the right hands.

2. Hardware problems are almost always the issue. Probably 99.9% when someone has been changing parts and new problems appear. Hardware means mechanical but it also means semiconductor failures. Meaning the electronics in parts and ecus. It is very possible to burn up one transistor in a part or ecu but still have that piece of electronics online to the scanner. Jumpering power to pins can do it - as in your water pump problem. Mechanics use current limited power probes and test lights to avoid damage when testing. Even more common are bad connections, relays and fuses. Sometimes caused by "repairs", sometimes they are the original problem.

3. These are complicated systems. In my mind a hybrid has all the complications of an advanced gas vehicle combined with all the sophistication of an ev. In the future we will look back and be amazed these cars ran as well as they did. Codes do not always pinpoint the problem. Some codes are false. Most mechanics at the dealer are not trained enough to perform hybrid diagnostics. Think about that for a minute. It is essential to be able to read and understand the wiring diagrams before using jumpers or replacing parts. A tech must also know the sequence of operation for a given problem. Then a diagnosis can be logical and effective. It is really the only way to zero in on a problem which are often simple and low cost. You have said you have limitations in that area.

Sometimes its better to let an experienced tech diagnose the problem and then consider diy repair if necessary. Often people think there is a silver bullet to solve any issue, partially because an experienced tech can repair most things quickly. Its training and experience in any field that makes their speciality look easy. Priuschat members seem to assume everyone is advanced diy with the tools, experience and documents needed. It is one of many issues with online forums like this.

 

The orange plug...

 

It's just remembering what it was before the safety interlock switch (safety plug??) was removed. It will update given enough time. In the mean time it will set the P0A0D code.