Oil FIlter Type on 2022

Finally got everything together and did the oil change yesterday. I had to buy almost all of the tools I needed (long story as to why). I built a set of ramps to make sure I had enough clearance, 3 step type, with spacing of 14" which actually turned out to be too much. Made them out of 2x8's, which was a bit narrow ((but the 2x10's available at the local Menards (the "Walmart" of the home centers!) were split and really warped)). The total length was 4 feet, and the lowest section actually prevented putting jack stands under the pinch welds at the lifting points if I drove up on the highest level. Turned out, all I really needed was one sort 2x (a lift of 1.5") for the small jack I used (Pittsburgh Automotive 1.5 ton Aluminum Low Profile Rapid Pump racing jack Item # 64545 at Habor Freight). jerrymildred's or Mendel Leisk's designs would be much better if one wanted ramps.
The Filter End Wrench I bought that fit the Toyota filter 90915-YZZN1 wouldn't grab the factory installed filter # 909915-10003 tight enough to get it off. The factory installed filter was on pretty tight so I ended up using a Carlyle Tools Filter Wrench #77-3324 and there was plenty of room for it (it is a metal strap type) and made the job a whole lot easier. I wouldn't waste money or time on an end wrench.
I put 4 quarts back in and checked the stick, then added slightly less than 4 ounces which it brought it up to the top mark on the stick. Once I ran the engine in Maintenance Mode it was right in the middle and stayed there after driving it for a couple of miles and this morning (on a cold engine) it is back to just below the top mark. Picked up a tip on YouTube to use a white piece of paper to make reading the dip stick easier.
At 1175 miles the oil was just slightly darker than the new, which would be expected.
Other than the overly tight filter there weren't any real problems. I was surprised by how much room there is down there around the filter. A metal strap wrench like I used made for an easy job (and gave plenty of leverage for the tight filter).

 

Yeah to figure out the minimum step you need, do something like this:



10" looks reasonable.

I've found these points much better than the pinch welds:



Clear of ramps too.

Ok, just woke up: you've got a 2022. There might be similar points though. It's at the leading end of the main longitundinal floor pan rails.

Honda's oil filter socket (aka "wrench") is a perfect fit, heavy stamped steel.

 

Don’t prime oil filter.

 

I’ve just never bothered. Too, with horizontal filter it would be a gong show??

 

Well, ... if you tip the filter fast enough and get the threads started fast enough, and spin it fast enough ... It's theoretically possible, but you'd have to do all those steps in about a micro second.

Or ... use very high viscosity oil -- something about like axle grease would stay in there.

 

I didn’t prime the filter, mainly since it is so small and I figured I would end up loosing most of it once I got the filter installed.
Yes your guess is correct on the lift point and jack stands.
With the cribs I would think your method would be a lot less hassle (less going back and forth to get the single jack lined up on the lift point).

 

Low rise DIY ramps may allow enough clearance to use the front/centre jacking point with a typical floor jack. Say two layers of 2x? There’s two clearance issues: getting the jack under there, and then having enough headroom to work the jack handle.

our sons Mazda CX-5 is sim.

 

Since we talked about jacking up the car, some things I’ve experienced, rhino ramps seem to work out of the box for me. There is just enough clearance for my 2019 awde version. Can’t say other models are the same clearance. Other options to handle the low clearance, even with my low profile harbor freight jack can’t fit under front jack point, if you have 4 jacks stands, you can initially raise up the rear first and put it on jack stands, and it’ll give you just enough clearance for the front.

 

Of course you can't easily fully pre-fill a horizontally oriented oil filter without making a mess, but you can certainly partially pre-fill it with no problems. I did that for many years, pre-Prius. Whether that ritual was worth the effort, who knows?

 

my 2 cents:

I always replace the crush washer with a new one when putting the oil pan plug back in. crush washers are one-time-use items.

I don't bother priming the oil filter, that's an old wives tale from the days when oil circulation systems were very different.

for jacking up the Prius I don't bother with a floor jack since it's such a pain to get it under-- I just use the little scissor jack that came with the vehicle to lift one side, put in a jack stand, then do the same on the other side. using a drill to run the scissor jack, it's faster this way than messing with a floor jack.

 

Believe it or not, in my younger years of owning a 2nd gen Prius, I didn’t realized those washers stick on the oil pan that I just added another washer. I at one point had three stacked washers, I never had one drip on my garage floor and I had no issue with oil loss. I now know what I did was pure stupidity, I’m astonished thinking now how three stacked crushed washers didn’t cause a leak.

 

Believe it or not, in my younger years of owning a 2nd gen Prius, I didn’t realized those washers stick on the oil pan that I just added another washer. I at one point had three stacked washers, I never had one drip on my garage floor and I had no issue with oil loss. I now know what I did was pure stupidity, I’m astonished thinking now how three stacked crushed washers didn’t cause a leak.

 

With enough washers the drain bolt’s getting a significantly diminished number of engaged threads, lol.