P3000, P0A80, P3017, then P3023, P0AFA. But hardware problems now?

Had a P3000, P0A80 pop up once. Cleared, but kept a note on voltage diffs, with #7 block being a little lower than others. I make a note of it and start looking up how to repair it.

Two weeks laters, I get P3000, P0A80, P3017. So it's definitely it. Drive home, take the battery out, I found the bad cell, at 6.37. Remove it, replace it. Clean up so corrosion on all the bus bars & contacts. Test voltages but don't do any rebalancing since I only have a small RC charger. Install in prius. Started fine, drove around 2 miles, then got P3000, P3023. So it's block 13 now. Messed up probably due to not rebalancing? I buy bus bar & nut replacements since many were so stripped already and I didn't want to break the battery bolts/screws or strip them further.

Look it over again. Start up car, getting P0AFA, with negative voltage.

Take it apart again, but this time when testing module voltage when in wire harness & busbars, #10 & #14 don't show up anymore but the batteries individually show voltages of 7.85 just fine. Other modules show up at 15.6-7. I also notice one small burnt pin in the hybrid battery ECU orange connector. I figured now it's the wire hareness since there are lots of corrosion on the plug wire harness wiress, and I can't seem to clean them. Not to mention the wires looked a bit janky, so if it's probably my fault with rough handling. Still don't understand that orange burnt pin connector though.

Now, I'm sitting here waiting for hopefully the last parts: battery ECU, main wire harness, and plug wire harness. I have a set of new bus bars & nuts too. I still have 2 spare batteries I bought in case it was more than one cell. I'm not sure if I messed up handling the wire harnesses or if the orange pin was burnt this whole time or sometime during my mini test drive. If it was the wire harness or ECU, does this mean getting replacements will hopefully fix it?

 

Forgot to add, when I got the first P3000 & P0A80 codes, I took apart and cleaned the hv battery fan. Seemed to be helpful and the codes went away.

 

Yeah...that seems to be the case. I bought a used one that came with an ECU (no bad marks or corrosion) and could only read module voltages on like #4 & #14..everything else was either 0 or like .04 ~ .3. So lesson learned, and I just bought the one from your link, and borrowing a torque wrench.

Oh since I can't edit posts apparently:

It's a 2005 with 266k miles. The most recent battery change was installed by toyota from previous owner at 178k miles, customer supplied (it has a partial deep green cover, but still says toyota on it). 2 years later it had failed cells, but since 200k miles it's been good. Fast forward 5 years & 66k miles, got some error codes P3000 & P0A80, so I cleaned the hybrid battery fan, they went away. P3017 and P3000 came after a couple weeks. Now for the last 2 weeks, I've been on and off trying to fix the battery pack. Seems like the wire harness is messed up. Whoever was working on these battery cells was really rough, though I'll admit I didn't make things much better.

 

Does anyone know of an alternative for finding new OEM parts? Toyotapartsdeal apparently canceled my order after a couple days and I’m trying to get my money back…

Further research shows that they so this repeatedly, scamish for the last two years.

any help is appreciated

 

Thanks! Bought from olathe via overnight, just got the part 20 mins ago.

I need to ask though because I feel like I'm doing something wrong...When I put the bus bars on the battery pack and test the voltage, I'm doing positive and negative side by side, getting 15v+. Is that the correct way of doing it before putting it in the car? Or have I been doing it wrong this whole time? Most tutorials I just see the modules individually tested then everything is assembled and put back in the car. If there is an error, take it apart again.

I guess that's what I'll do now, unless I've been doing something wrong and it wasn't the wire harness after all...?

EDIT: I should add that only half of the modules show up at 15v+ the rest are showing as 0.

 

As a last update, I put the battery back in but now I have blocks #8 & #13 giving me voltage swings with errors. So I guess I'll need to either rebalance and get new modules or just buy a whole new pack. I think I'll just get another car and stick with public transit since this car is so old and I've spent almost half of what I paid for it fixing the various problems with it...only driven it for 8 months or so.

Oh well! Thanks for the help all.