Need help with the bolt size/part number (lower control arm)

You need to get that bolt from Toyota.
Some parts stores may have an aftermarket alternative (like in the "Dorman HELP!" section).

Fwiw, especially for suspension specialty bolts, always get OEM.
Imho, if your life isn't worth ~$10 for a OEM Toyota bolt, then you have other much greater issues to deal with, other than a rusted bolt. :-( Just saying...

I'm not sure why the typical online Toyota parts sites didn't show/list the bolts.
Note, there will be shipping and tax.
Imho, if you're near a dealership, just go there, and order the part there. Depending on their inventory, they may even have some in stock.

Code:

Start at:
https://parts.toyota.com/

Navigate to your car, the year, and the area (front suspension).



https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2009_Prius-Hatchback-15L-Hybrid/_65511_6707055/FRONT-AXLE-ARM--STEERING-KNUCKLE/222420-4802.html

https://parts.toyota.com/images/parts/toyotaOEM/fullsize/a1_481695D.jpg

https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2009_Prius-Hatchback-15L-Hybrid/Suspension-Control-Arm-Bolt-Left--Right--Front--Lower/63349247/9011914108.html

Suspension Control Arm Bolt (Left, Right, Front, Lower)
Part Number: 9011914108
Supersession(s): 90119-14108
FOR FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER ARM NO. 1 LEFT; FOR FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER ARM NO. 1 RIGHT.
MSRP:  $7.15


https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2009_Prius-Hatchback-15L-Hybrid/Suspension-Control-Arm-Bolt-Left--Right--Front--Lower/63349247/9011914108.html
Suspension Control Arm Bolt (Left, Right, Front, Lower)
Part Number: 9011914108
Supersession(s): 90119-14108
FOR FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER ARM NO. 1 LEFT; FOR FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER ARM NO. 1 RIGHT.
MSRP: $7.15

Good Luck!
.

 

Oh yea, get the nut also!

Also, use anti-seize grease on the bolt, and it should go in easier. (or even regular grease, oil, etc).
Use latex gloves, and have paper towels to wipe up after the bolt is in.

In New England, like MI, we have a lot of rusted suspension, and other parts.

Suspension bolts/nuts are specialty bolts and nuts.
They have to be strong, but not brittle. Many (typical) strong bolts are more brittle.
It all depends on what is used to make the bolts, and how they are made. It's for cost reasons, why the typical stronger bolts are more brittle. Imho, no reason to make bolts 5X more expensive, for 0.01% of the applications. Plus, suspension bolts, and other specialty bolts, are almost always custom length anyways.
So, yes, there are good reasons why some specifications are as they are.

Good Luck!

 

Brittle? Are you talking about brittle or frangible fracture vs. ductile fracture?

Most all suspension bolts are of high carbon, not medium carbon alloy. A properly annealed high carbon ISO 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolt, from which Toyota chooses, it not tat brittle. It has a degree of ductility.

 

The Dremel abrasive cutting disc would be fine. It will readily cut through that bolt.

 

So what's happened your electric impact won't blast that nut loose No kidding I think I've got extras out here mine just blow right out of course I'm not in Michigan or New England anymore so that's the nicety of the SE USA

 

You could pick up a cheap, corded angle grinder and cutting wheel, for around $50.

 

Under $20 Harbor Freight. Princess Auto $29

Angle grinder Harbor Freight

Angle grinder Princess Auto Canada

 

Doubt you'll get a nut splitter in there so that's probably out without disassembling everything around it melt it with the torch and hammer it out..

 

Just in case you didn’t know: likely need to torque the bolts with car back on the ground. I can see what I can dig up from the repair manual.

 

Here you go:

 

I remember those days living up north I do not miss that rust

 

Specifically, the control arms have to be "at ride height" (as if the car was on its wheels on the ground) BEFORE you tighten the control arm to body bolts.

If those bolts are tightened when the car is in the air and suspension is drooping, then the rubber bushings will tear fairly quickly (weeks or months) when the car is on the ground and being driven.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Congratulations on getting the bolt out and replaced!


It was marked "11"? Not 10.9?
If so, then the "11" may be a manufacture's custom identification mark.

That doesn't look like a grade-8, or similar bolt.
It's likely coated, and at least a grade 10.9.
For weight, sometimes aluminum/alloy bolts are used.

Lower control arm bolts, are specialty bolts. Those bolts don't do typical clamping, like a typical bolt does.
The lower control arm mounting points, and the lower control arm bushing "move/flex/twist".
Automotive suspension design is a niche design area.


Fwiw, for future reference, to remove rusted suspension bolts, I suggest using a good sawsall, and Milwaukee sawsall blades.
Cheaper sawsall blades can, and often do, fracture and throw pieces all around.
Always use top quality safety glasses with side protection.

Be careful with heat.
If the bushing catches on fire, then very toxic gases are released.

Congrats again!
.

 

11 is Toyota's designation for an ISO 10.9 J.I.S. or Japan Industrial Standard bolt. It is not aluminum, it is forged and rolled threads carbon steel annealed and plated with a zinc anti-corrosive compound,

 

Cool, thanks!

That all makes sense.
The new bolt in the picture, looked coated, and not some aluminum alloy. It can be hard to tell with pictures, with lower resolution and focus.