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Steady electronic beep, dash flickering, codes C1241, C1353, and C2318, 2009 Prius

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Pooh, Jul 13, 2022.

  1. Pooh

    Pooh New Member

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    I have been reading this forum for years and learned a lot. Thank you. Now I have a problem of my own. I have a 2009 Prius with 150k miles on it, regularly serviced at Toyota. Driving in 110F heat, the AC stopped being cold (while still blowing), a steady electronic whistle/beep sound started emanating from the dashboard, all dash lights flickered, and the brake light lit even though I checked and the handbrake was not engaged. I'll try to embed a video:

    I turned the AC off, all the commotion stopped and the car run normally. Later that day, the sound and lights came on again, without AC on. I took it to Autozone, borrowed their diagnostic tool, and the codes C1241 (Low battery positive voltage or abnormally high battery positive voltage), C1353 (Increasing pressure solenoid malfunction FL), and C2318 (low voltage error) came up.
    Reading these forums, I gathered (maybe wrongly) that the culprit might be the 12 V battery. I got a new one two and a half years ago.
    My MFD has not worked for years so I can't check anything that way.
    I just want to be sure that by just replacing the 12V battery I'm not neglecting a bigger issue.
    I have an appointment at the Toyota dealership next Monday but dread another big bill.
    Do you have any opinions or inputs? I'd really appreciate any help.
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!
    Unlikely if the 12v is bad, though it could be low, and you can check the resting voltage with a multi-meter or voltmeter to be sure.

    You can also take it to a local auto parts chain store and they can test it for you.
    It sounds like the diagnostic tool may not be hybrid compatible, best to borrow another, even within the same auto parts chain.

    When was the last time the inverter coolant pump was replaced? (check you maintenance paperwork for DTC P0A93)

    With the vehicle on, check for turbulence by removing the inverter reservoir cap and look inside, or use a pencil/stick/rod to feel the pump.

    Here is the work up for C1241 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Prius%20Service%20Manuals%202004/%E4%BF%AE%E7%90%86%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C/04pruisr/05/21avn/cic12414.pdf

    Tip: In the above PDF, the different 'detailed code'(s) for DTC C1241 are subcodes (81, 82, 83, 84), also known as INF(s). Make sure your OBD2 reader/scannner has the ability to provide an associated INF (if it exists) for a primary DTC. Having both DTCs and any subcodes (INFs) make tracking down a problem that much easier.

    Here is the workup for DTC 1353 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21avn/cic13153.pdf

    Here is the workup for C2318 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/repair%20manual/04pruisr/05/21age/cic2318.pdf

    FYI : you're moderated until you've posted 5 times.
     
  3. Pooh

    Pooh New Member

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    Thank you for your help SFO, and for the links. I'll go back to Autozone and ask for the hybrid-compatible scanner and get the subcodes (if any).
    12 months ago I had Coolant Temp Sensor (CS001) and Coolant Control Valve (MA001) replaced for $861.
    I'll check for the turbulence you mentioned.
     
  4. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    As SFO mentioned, the initial guess is that something is wrong with your inverter cooling system, causing the inverter to run hot. This will set codes and result in sections of the inverter turning off to prevent damage. A/C compressor and the DC-DC converter (provides 12V power to the car) are first to shut down.

    Having the inverter coolant pump fail is very common on the Gen2 Prius. Sometimes it just stops working. Sometimes it shorts, which blows the AM2 fuse and "kills" the car completely until the fault is repaired. It is recommended to only use a Toyota pump from a reputable source, as aftermarket pumps have questionable reliability.

    There are a number of options for scantools if you want to be able to gets codes and data yourself. Techstream (dealer diagnostic software and OBD cable for pc), or a number of apps and OBD devices for smartphone are out there. Use the search function to learn more.

    IF your fault is inverter overheat (P0A93) but your pump works, then it is possible to have problems with other bits in the cooling system, such as debris or bent fins plugging up the air passages through the bottom section of the radiator.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  5. Pooh

    Pooh New Member

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    You were both right, it must be the inverter coolant pump. I turned the car on, checked the coolant for turbulence and it was completely still. I'm taking it to the Toyota dealership on Monday. Is it safe to drive? It's about 3 miles away (in 115-degree heat). Can you also tell me what I should expect to pay?