Jackstand twisted- causing damage to lines- Please help!

I'll have to go out and look at my car but looks like brake and/or possibly fuel lines.

 

At least they aren't leaking yet?

 

Pretty sure the larger diameter lines are fuel

 

I think you lucked out on this one... If car works normally at full throttle you could probably find a way to wrap up and protect it from further damage in the short term with plans to replace them in the long term.

 

How many miles? What condition? Long term plans for it?

First step is how valuable the car is to you versus the risk of ignoring it as relates to how much DIY you do or money you have.... Second is most expensive fix versus least expensive fix. As in replace the whole system, versus cutting out damage and adding rubber fuel line and hose clamps to patch it.

And because:

...hybrid vehicles, which have an internal combustion engine and an electric motor, had the most fires per 100,000 vehicles (3475), while vehicles with just an internal combustion engine placed second (1530 per 100,000) No, Millions of Cars Are Not Catching Fire Every Year

It'd probably be good to get in there and get even more detailed photos and see how it reacts to movement to be certain.
...

 

OK, that is BAD. The two smaller lines are for the brakes- so having one partially crushed restricts fluid going to and from one of the wheel cylinders. Repair would be to replace that entire section of brake line (end to end). Or cut out the bad piece and splice in new line- but you have to use the correct tools to do double inverted flares or metric bubble flares. Period.

The two larger lines are: one for fuel to the ICE and one for fuel vapor (evap emissions system). If it's the vapor line that got squished- ignore it. If it's the fuel line- you might be able to ignore IF there is no pressure drop to the engine at foot to the floor accel.

Lastly, after whatever repairs you have are complete, paint or undercoat the exposed metal to slow any rust formation.

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I agree that it looks like two lines for the fuel system and two for the brake system. (And, maybe, one of the brake lines escaped any damage.)

Before going to extra lengths to think about cheaper fixes, it can be good to know what the worst-case expense would be of getting the correct original parts from a dealer. These are Toyota's published list prices here, but many dealers will sell at discounted pricing.

The fuel line 77251B is $112 new list price at the dealer, and the vapor tube 77262B is $49 list.

Also dealer list price, the brake tubes 47321 and 47322 are $63 and $86, respectively.




So you might be able to get all new parts for an amount that isn't too awful, considering this is going to be a one time, nonrepeating, unplanned expense. You end up with no splices, no hand bending or flaring or splicing of lines, and the same coated corrosion-resistant tubing Toyota used fresh.

If you're going to think about splicing the brake lines, as mr_guy_mann said, you must own (or borrow/rent) a flaring tool, and use proper flare unions.

The fuel lines you could maybe do with rubber hose and clamps as PriusCamper suggested. That's almost certainly enough for the vapor line. For the fuel line, you do need to think about the fuel pump pressure (50 psi-ish). Good rubber hose well clamped could be ok, or if you're going to have flaring tools already, you could use them there too.

 

Well all of you are going to love this story in the 93 Corolla the brake lines and the fuel lines run very similarly to this exact scenario I had a beautiful condition 93 LE Corolla except for the fact that some lines underneath the car were rusting Believe it or not I use two compressions fittings on two brake lines and very similar locations literally drop the line tray down cut the line spliced in the flared brass compression fittings and believe it or not that nonsense lasted about 7 years without failure The gas line did the same thing too only one was damaged this was a 93 1.8 LE Corolla and that is not the thing to be doing here guaranteed. You might get lucky and take a pair of non serrated jawed type channel locks drop the wire tray down and try to squeeze on the opposite sides of the damage and maybe lay the line down just a little bit you'd be surprised that line is pretty pliable You've got to do it correctly once you break it you break it anyway so what are you going to hurt trying to squeeze it with a flat jaws that appliers gently you may get it opened up enough to wear it'll sit there and work until. Good luck buddy

 

Compression fittings are NOT designed for the pressures (800-1500+ psi) that could be present in a braking system. They work- unless / until they don't.


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No they are not and I implicitly said this is not the thing to be doing here but I had no choice at the time and that nonsense held up for 7 years so it didn't fail That's not why we got out of the car that was still working fine everything else was resting away but it was a great car for about 12 years

 

There are quick-disconnect fittings there, and the repair manual will show order numbers for the Toyota special service tools that make them disconnect. The local auto parts place probably also has some sort of fuel line QD tool assortment containing one thing that will do the trick.

I think you'll find the front ends go into the brake actuator with flare nuts, and the rear ends go to the rubber brake hoses that allow motion of the rear axle, and will be with flare nuts there too. They seem to be 10 mm flare nuts all or mostly, so a 10 mm union nut wrench is probably sufficient. For the rear, where they go into the fitting of the rubber hose, you'll probably also want a larger wrench to hold the fitting while undoing the nut, so you're not just wrenching against the fitting's sort of flimsy attachment to the sheet metal.

That, I don't really know; you probably never find out until starting that kind of a job. But it might not be too horrible, as a lot of the run is pretty much just under the car. For access to the underhood bits, removing the wipers and cowl is probably a good start (it's like, how many recipes start with "chop 1/2 onion"?).

 

You will, of course, need to bleed the rear brakes. Have you got the equipment for that?