Better, then worse.

P0AFA - you forgot to press down the orange plug!

 

Wow, hope I have better luck putting mine back together.

Check sensor harness plug in battery computer.

 

I would think if you didn't slam the orange plug down he wouldn't even be able to get Dr Prius to read the voltages but I'm not sure about that.

 

You sure you cleared the orange triangle code? Many people forget to do that after the Orange safety plug problem is finally corrected.

Also I appreciate the smarts on replacing the part rather than the whole harness. How did you go about determining part compatibility?

Usually the recommendation is finding a local battery rebuilder or one on Priuschat to give you a new harness for free. Most rebuilders have a lots of these taking up space.

Another idea you might want to try is wiring into another one of the thermistors in the pack. I'd be curious to know if that's an option?

 

If nothing else you are 10 messages into an highly entertaining thread, at least for me and hopefully others. And if someone among us could tell us the exact resistor to put in place of a failed thermistor, we'd all be smarter and more accomplished in dealing with this stuff in the future. Of course you could just replace the whole harness? Lol...

And thanks for starting a solid P0AFA thread, maybe we oughta link over the other related threads?

 

Every extra dime spent on a mass produced vehicle adds up to millions of dollars in additional long term cost. There's no repairability incentive in the market, but the interest in repairability has been growing quickly ever since farmers were told they can't repair the tractors they buy.

"As dealers consolidate, the scarcity of repair shops is getting more acute: For every 12,018 farms and 5.3 million acres of farmland, there is just one Deere dealership, U.S PIRG found earlier this year. Some farmers are turning to older tractor models with less-advanced technology because they know they can repair them. Walter Schweitzer, president of the Montana Farmers Union, said in an interview he recently purchased a tractor with 12,000 hours on it because “I knew I could fix it myself.” source: Right to repair movement goes Deere hunting- POLITICO

 

My first inclination would be to charge up the module in block 12 which is nearly 0.5 V lower that the best of the others.

 

looking at your Dr Prius App, the wires/connection to your blocks are okay. Each block reports the proper voltage with one block considerably low (#12) Note that block monitoring is directly connected to the HV ECU so there are no issues there. Your main issue is how the blocks are connected together and not reporting the correct TOTAL voltage. I think the Dr Prius App just adds up the total voltage of the blocks instead of actually getting the output voltage from the main output (orange wires) What you could do is check the voltages between the disconnect plug (orange plug) you should get 110 volts (or close) on each side. Start by checking the output voltage at the main terminal (220v), then the orange plug halves (110v), then the relative voltages between blocks (start with 1st block then 2nd block (32v, 48v, 62v...) You might have a bad connection there and definitely not the sense wires..

 

I also noticed you're just using a scanner using ODB2 mode, this is like shooting darts in the dark. Get a scanner that can read the HV Battery module or Techstream. OBD2 gives you very limited data on error codes (only ECT/ECM module is read) with limited data you can only guess what's wrong.

 

Does the P0AFA have any freezeframe data?

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

NexCell modules have that

There's lots of apps out there that do this via OBD2... Car Scanner app seems to be the latest favorite.

 

Looks super clean... Suspect the corrosion problems are regional, based on humidity... Looks like Prius in Iowa don't have the same problem we have in the ultra near year-round humidity of the Pacific Northwest.