Rear brake pipe replacement

I have done exactly this . And it's not legal but I've had it work a very long time. I used flared fittings in brass or gold metal . Twas very stupid to do but I needed move car quickly. It was then driven about 35K miles in a junk yard as yard car another car was dropped on its roof and then twas scrapped. Brake pedal was as new wen crushed . This is not recommended or legal.

 

I might hesitate about straight copper, but I think the CuNiFe brake tubing is perfectly cromulent. And it is very easy to bend and flare compared to steel.

https://www.cunifer.com/

 

I used the brake line at Napa uncoated . Not like toyodas. It still worked . But not recommended. I couldn't get in to flare . So I used two couplers . Really not recommended . But held long time . Driven in a salvage yard. Till it was pummelled

 

If you follow that cunifer.com link, you'll see they mention some competing products have much thinner walls.

When I see "sold on ebay cheap" in a sentence, I think all bets might be off regarding that particular product.

I was able to pick up a roll of CuNiFe in person at my local, I think it was, Advance Auto Parts.

 

I thought I recognize that name That's British brake line interesting yeah looks pretty cool hopefully I'll never have to use any of that where I live in the southeast now

 

If you can get the flare tool up in there or bend the line down enough without distorting it with you cutting out the fubar part of the line you should be able to flare it Toyota brake line is not too shoddy It is when it's corroded but if you cut it back enough to get past the corrosion then you can just buy a section of brake line from Napa if you don't want to order they'll have metric brake line Napa or they used to and then you would be able to screw that in proper The piece you buy at Napa will have the fittings on it you just need to flare and add the mail portion to what you've cut measure carefully cut once flare ones and screw it together once that should be a pretty permanent repair because you're flaring the tubing and all that I did not do this. That's why I'm saying the way I did it is certainly not recommended for DOT and street use

 

I guess the difference in wall thickness between their stuff and many competing suppliers comes out to a big enough difference in metal content that a quick comparison of the weight of a roll ought to settle it.

That ebay listing does not say copper-nickel-iron, or alloy C70600, anywhere that I can see.

 

I do know this a lot of copper pipe that you buy today is not of a good equality as it was many years ago it's thinner chemicals penetrate it faster even water I don't use copper much anymore and a lot of the plumbing jobs I do mostly residential up to 2 in and because it's just not reliable or I guess if you want to seek out sick or copper pipe and pay more for it and all that well you can get back to that but most of the polybutylene and the pex type pipe. Will far outlast me and I know I won't be coming back on a call for it unless we're upgrading and putting in some new things

 

PEX seems to be holding up pretty well. PB, not so much.

My sister's house had been redone in PB at some point, and there was a period where it seemed every time I went to visit I got to crawl under and locate another leak and either replace it myself or leave her a video to show a plumber where it was.

Would have been faster to just redo it all at once, but $$$$.

 

I meant cross-linked polyethylene I guess Not polybutylene gray we don't want that we all know that was recalled My mistake Not gray red white blue generally I think there's some yellow too Cross length polyethylene I think it is which is pecks I believe It always tries to return to its size forever apparently so when you spread a piece and slide it over a piece it tries to clamp back down to its original size forever makes a perfect clamp or you can use brass bands copper rings blah blah blah

 

My manufactured home which is now my office has polybutylene gray in it It was recalled The idiot that owned it before me took a payout but didn't do anything about it very few of the fittings under the house look like they've dripped before I've changed most of it over at one time to picks I think the back bathroom was left but that's getting ready to be gutted and turned into something else shortly but other than that we didn't really have any problems with the PB and it was exposed in a crawl space skirted what have you but it really never failed some hackers even added some pieces because they did some work on the front bathroom and didn't use the right bands to crimp with and all this and the stuff still held up then I bought the place 9 years ago and immediately changed all the parts of the house that were used regularly right over to PEX The main 3/4 feed feeds to the water tank to and from washer dryer connections all that didn't take very long and that stuff's never leaked or had any problems

 

Yeah, I recently noticed that was a new way of joining PEX. At first it was by crimping bands around the outside, or the various quick-connects from Watts, Shark-Bite, Apollo, etc. The quick connects are more expensive but super convenient for doing rework or repairs.

More recently, you have the third option of using an expander tool, slipping the expanded tube over a specially-sized fitting and waiting for the tube to clamp back down. I didn't notice when that got added to the approved joining methods, but it's pretty neat.

 

Yes I have the rigid brand press tool that uses the different dyes and then I have a Milwaukee unit that's similar but it's kind of different I got these from a guy that was going out of business He tried to sell them and couldn't I don't know why and then he handed him to me and said put them in the shop.

 

That's disappointing (for this purpose, anyway). I never knew the Toyota lines were stainless. I see that they have some plastic sort of coating, and I always thought that was more likely on corrosion-prone steel.

 

If brake line stainless how the Hale is it corroding . I do not believe this . As matter fact. I have a piece out of my Corolla that's sitting here in the shop on the floor in the corner it's green colored it's coated and it's like a green color and when I scrape on it it is silver but it damn sure don't look like any stainless steel I've ever seen which is not saying much I'm not a metallurgist by trade. I do have machine shop experience but I'm not going to be the one identifying 30 different types of metals that's for sure but I really don't think that these Toyota lines are stainless I'd like to think not and he's saying it's stainless and you can't flare it on the car but if you take it out you can flare it in the shop oh that's ridiculous If you get enough of the line hanging down to mount the flare tool to the line and be able to turn the screw you will flare something. I do believe I do also believe that you may not be able to make a cut in the line and get it to bend down far enough but I find that questionable also unless you're in a very short bent run which then you would be going further down the line until you can slice a section get it to bend down flare it add the fitting then flare it and then bend the piece that you're adding to the shape of the part you had to cut out because you couldn't flare doesn't have to be exact.

 

My parts and services manager I just got off the phone with said they are copper nickel. Maybe that's why I see silver when I scratch them.