Energy monitor

If you hold the start button down the car will turn off then if you push the brake and push the start button again what lights come on do you see the speedometer do you see the transmission park neutral drive etc do you see Amber warning lights like an exclamation point ABS tire pressure sensor light etc what do you mean all the dash lights went out and what were you doing when they went out filling up didn't have much to do with it so were you filling the car up while it was sitting there on and running and ready have you noticed the ready light it's green on the dash If the car is not ready you're not going to drive He generally want to reset everything the miles kilometers the MFD display reset the mileage then turn the car off with the start button. Fill the car up and then get back in the car after hanging up the pump push on the brake and hit the start button and then make a note of which lights come on or better yet take a picture and we'll go from there

 

When you open the door to your car do you hear beeps because the door was opened does the back of the remote that you carry in your pocket have a silver Toyota logo on the back or is it black do you have a button on your driver door handle and on your trunk or not they're black squares?

 

This is a problem with an underpowered capacitor that goes bad on your speedometer gauge, aka: combination meter. It's intermittent at first so next time you start up your car it could be gone again. If you or a friend or family member has soldering skills it's a quick fix once you pull it out of the dash.

The other symptoms you're experiencing are related to this because when that capacitor doesn't work a bunch of other stuff doesn't work, like the shut down sequence when you try to turn your car off. If you're like me, the problem goes away for months and then comes back so it's a repair you can procrastinate on.

 

Yes the low mileage 90,000 mi little old ladies car that I stripped and took the dash heads up display out of has done this twice since I put it in but like I say I still believe it's further upstream or downstream of the display. And when it does this with the new part installed immediately when I turn the car off and then turn it on again like I'm supposed to to get ready the display immediately lights back up. Since all this has happened my remote has gone bad The green board and the remote does nothing but the transponder chip still lets the car start but the remote must be in the slot in order for me to have beeps when I open the door that used to be the remote in my pocket would allow the beeps to happen. But I guess with the remote green board non-functioning it can't send the transponder signal to turn the red key off on the dash because the board is not working in the remote so I'm forced to put the remote in the slot and then the beeping starts and then I can start and drive the car all day I can unlock it with the buttons while the remote is in the slot once I attempt to lock the car I can lock it with the buttons but I need to take the remote with me and I have to use the key to unlock the door as the buttons on the remote do not work so that makes the transponder not be able to sense the key in my pocket when I'm standing next to the car but I don't think this has anything to do with the dash lighting up It has to do with the car readying with the remote in my pocket only

 

The slot is an amplifier it seems for the transponder part of system .

 

I am finding it really hard to make sense of what you're saying. How can you press the buttons on the fob when it is in the slot? You cannot get at the buttons when the fob is in the slot!

 

That's nothing new there. Stream of consciousness - unfiltered and transposed direct to text.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

We ask him all the time to actually proofread and edit what he writes so it's comprehensible but he refuses... He's kind of like our disabled participant. We just accept him for where he's at and don't expect any more than that because he doesn't have the ability to do better.

 

That all may very well be true, but it just is not helpful dictating an unintelligible stream of text, especially for newcomers who have no context.

If it were me, before posting I'd have a sidekick proofread on my behalf.

 

If I win the lottery I'd buy out PriusChat and make an animated gif of @bisco dancing his famous dance moves while crumbling cookies with warning that says:

"It looks like your comment lacks grammar and proper punctuation and doesn't make sense so it can't be posted. Please proofread and edit and try again."

 

Anyway all that aside, to bring the thread back on topic, the OP problem is most likely a faulty combination meter (CM), as Toyota calls it.

There is a thread that has details for a DIY repair (pinned to the top of this very forum) if you have the soldering skills or you can remove the CM and replace it with a refurb from Texas Hybrid Batteries which gives a lifetime warranty and will program in the correct miles into your odometer. You could also have a capable local electronics firm repair the CM using the info in the above-mentioned thread. These are the cost-effective options.

The last option would be to take it to Toyota and have your car out of commission for several weeks while they get a new CM programmed from Japan and charge you the princely sum of ~US$900

I hope that helps.

 

Says nothing about pushing buttons while the remote is in the slot It says the remote has to be in the slot in order for the beeps and the red key to go off to allow the car to start where it used to be the remote could be in your pocket and when you walked up to the car the red key would go off and you could sit in the car with the remote in your pocket push the start button and drive away when the green board fails the fob must be in the slot to inactivate the transponder and allow the beefs to happen when the door is open which means the fob is recognized and you're ready to start

 

I would make a video but apparently nobody in the world has ever had this problem before so we'll just leave it alone

 

If it happens only occasionally just do this simple 60 second exercise
Don’t waste money on fixing the combination meter.
Hell, @Tombukt2 doesn't even fix his, he just drives blind.

Mine did it very rarely and usually on a cold morning, usually once a year. Then no problems for months.
I unscientifically correlated it to leaving the AC or headlights on when powering down the night before. Many theories are out there about over taxing the sub spec’d capacitor. Eventually it may not work, but may not own the car by then and it’ll be the next guy’s problem.

 

I tried to have it fixed The guy down there and wherever it is Texas hybrids told me he was positive that because mine keeps returning that it was not the combination meter heads up display He inferred that something further down the line was causing this problem He was sure of it and I pretty much am now too because both of my displays still work when they don't come on it's seemingly has something to do with something completely else like the alarm or the boot sequence or whatever it is no matter where I get a display from I haven't had the chance to get a new one we don't want to be paying $900 to see a speedometer when a phone will more than do I mean Christ. So in other words the problem seems to be in my car or chassis not in the heads up display because everyone I swap out works works works for a good minute months and then all of a sudden I'll get in the car and push the button and I'll just have the check engine light on I can start and drive the car and all I see is that amber light that Amber light has nothing to do with what's going on it's only for my PO420. then I can take that dash apart and swap it out with one from a 74,000 mi wrecked car with a small dent in the back that was totaled again that HUD will work for months maybe almost a year and then I'll get in one day no display turn the car immediately off turn it back on the display comes right on this has happened with this module I have in the car right now happened yesterday actually drove about 30 minutes without a display got out came back out of Lowe's push the button displays been on ever since oh well car's sitting at 50.1 right now