Got a new ODB2 scanner and found these CEL codes but NO CEL on dash.

How's your 12 volt battery due on a load test? The brake pump and accumulator that's being clocked as low pressure and whatnot is probably happening at some point the light will come on on your dash the brake pedal will go to the floor maybe and then it will take 2 ft standing on the brake pedal to stop the car and at that point your car like mine will need the brake accumulator pump assembly behind the inverter into the middle of the car kind of a pain to change expensive part to buy new getting harder to find them used . The JDM importers will get you one about 150

 

Those aren't CEL codes, those are all brake system codes.

Are you not seeing at least one of those related warning lights—((!)), ABS, BRAKE, traction (the squiggly road)—on the dash?

 

The codes you have are not about the pads, shoes, or fluid.

Because of the C1241, it would be worth checking the 12 V battery. (That's not the only possible cause for C1241, but it's one that's easy and sensible to check.)

The codes about the pump and low pressure could result if there's really just inadequate power getting to the brake system for running the pump. So if you find a culprit for the C1241, you might be fortunate and not have C1253 and C1256 after that. Otherwise, there's a troubleshooting tree for those if you still have them.

 

just reset/clear them.. if they go back immediately then you will have a big surprise at some point in time. How's the frequency of buzzing sound from the ABS pump?

 

do you hear buzzing when opening the drivers door?

 

interesting, all 5 of our hybrids have made the brake actuator pump sound when opening the door, and occasionally while driving and pressing the brake.
i have pretty good hearing aids though

 

I doubt it your ABS codes are going to be ABS codes and they're mostly electrical and/or internal electrical switches in your actuator and that big block of aluminum with all the brake lines going to it just clear the codes and see what comes back because you have a code and the lights not on it's not frequent enough or it's not hit enough times or whatever the heck so there you go when it does and all those lights come on my car an '09 drove two years almost until I have the hard pedal Flintstones the car to stop it all that sort of thing then I change the actuator bled it without the computer and have been driving ever since without the lights and that's that

 

Not normal, normal is every several hours if no one is using the brakes.

Some people do wait until it's every several seconds before they start to think "hmm, is my actuator getting worn out?" , but even at every five minutes, the "getting worn out" stage is a long way in the rearview mirror.

 

I don't know what you're trying to figure out here when the lights are going to come on or win the pump and accumulator are going to fail enough to put the light on have no idea when it happens it happens and to what degree of severity it will happen some people the minute the lights come on it takes two people to stand on the brake pedal to stop the car from 30 mph and their car is rendered useless immediately for the most part or they could nurse it possibly home whatever. Others have the lights on and are driving around seemingly the brakes are working fine regen breaking is working everything is working sometimes for months sometimes for years other times the car falls flat on its face the minute the lights come on I don't know what to say except what of it you either are getting a part put on or you're not Don't know even for a newbie it's not a real bad DIY job it's just boring as hell it's not as fun as having your Oculus glasses on sitting on the couch with your gaming machine I guess or what have you It doesn't take any specialized tools really.

 

The voltage thresholds for setting C1241 are pretty darned low: dropping below 8.9 V for 3 seconds or more, or below 8.5 V. If your camping setup is ever pulling your battery low enough for that to happen, you should probably revise your camping setup. Such deep discharges will shorten the battery life too.

Sometimes the C1241 won't be caused by crazy low voltage at the battery, but by deterioration of the wiring that brings the power to the brake system. After all, the code means the voltage arriving at the brake system was below those thresholds.