12.33 volts on 12-volt

If you have a battery charger, you could try doing a full recharge and then repeat your test. If that doesn't yield better results, then maybe a new battery is in your future.

What really matters, though, is what voltage is the battery pulled down to when you start the car, or when the brake accumulator pump runs.

 

I checked on a relative’s vehicle: they’re on vacation for 3 weeks, so about 10 days after their departure went over, hooked up my Solar BA5, a tester that does electronic load test of CCA.

It read lowish 12.3 volts, same as yours, AND measured CCA over 800 (spec is 650), and gave a verdict of GOOD, not even GOOD BUT CHARGE, it’s next verdict option.

Took it for a drive, for good measure, should help.

Bottom line, don’t write-off a battery on voltage alone.

I’d second the charging recommendation; we’re low annual miles, and I keep it on a CTEK 4.3 smart charger more-or-less constantly. Current battery over seven years old.

 

get a lithium jump pack. handy with all your vehicles, last a long time, use the 12v until it won't start, get the most life out of it.

 

Not sure how many resellers there are outside of toyota for the 12V. I broke down on the road and had the dealer do a quick battery check and they tested it with a handheld tester. Said it was OK, so that makes them honest. Battery still working well a year later. A good battery meant that something else was really wrong.

 

12.3 volts is fine at the front jump point. A perfect battery lives at 12.6 volts so your fine.

Here's a better test: At night before you start the car turn on the headlights. The day you see them dim a little when you start the car then start looking for a new battery.

Your a long ways off from that at 12.3 volts.