Are these the parts I need for an oil filter housing conversion?

Okay maybe not quite… I’ll leave my error in thinking there my apologies…

The engine sees pressure that is left over after the pressure drop. That part should be correct. It is also guaranteed pressure of the oil applied to outside of the filter - the hypothetical 20 PSI relief setting. So I believe the example was 60 PSI oil pump pressure to the filter. So after the filter we are guaranteed 40 PSI. If the pressure differential reaches 20 PSI the valve will open….

So yes the valve setting is more important than my last post made it seem, but I’m not sure as critical as explained….


iPhone ?

 

Sorry you had that issue. I will say, I have had this conversion for over 3 years. No problems, no leaks, just easier to do oil changes.

 

Whats the point of the conversion? The plastic housing is great and the filter cartridges are cheaper for the same filter without the metal housing.

 

Apparently, you have never done battle with a plastic oil filter housing that was over torqued on by a dealer "tech".

I had to use my corded 1/2 inch impact gun to break mine free. I was worried that the bolts holding the filter base on the engine block were going to shear off.

After that, I purchased and installed an aluminum oil filter housing instead of the plastic one. It spins on and then it stops without overtightening the threaded section.

It looks like this.

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What engine the conversion is for the z engine later model but same engine and in Corolla too ZZ engine w spin on . All same open deck design of course some updated parts like rings etc but I wouldn't think that would change oil filter specs.

 

Wow! Everyday. Something new!
I want one!

Only, how is it explained what that smaller plug does when removed?
It's potentially another failure point. At first I thought "No removal tool needed."

 

I may have like 7 years ago but its been too long. I just tighten by hand so it comes off easy. But i have a housing wrench for the plastic housing and it does fine.
I would be careful using a non toyota filter housing though. I hear the quality on them and their bypass valves is awful. Those metal filter caps came on old toyotas as well.

 

By tracking down the pn in the above picture it is a toyota part. You have to buy that threaded plug and O-ring separate.
So ~$20 to upgrade to an aluminum housing.

But you bring up a good point. Is the bypass valve part of the oil filter housing? I don't remember seeing that in the plastic housing.

 

Yup! It is built into the housing as you are just replacing the filter media. (So the metal cans just have the filter and bypass valve and tube as well. They are the same. Except for you throw away the tube and valve every time.) It is spring loaded behind the filter on the tube that the filter sits on. When the filter gets too clogged it pushes on the filter and opens the bypass. Push down on your filter next time and blow on it with your mouf.

Also, if you buy the correct filter p/n for the metal filter housing. Its like an old corolla or something. The filter comes with the big o ring and little oring. So you replace the every time. But most people don't replace the little o-ring as it never leaks. I guess toyota took note and thats why the plastic housing doesn't use the little oring and screw on portion anymore.

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation!

Right, the bypass valve is in the element.
For that reason, Pass on this metal system.

 

I've been burned so many times buying Dorman or some "OE" replacement. I just cringe so hard now at the thought of aftermarket replacement parts now. I think about how in the long its going to **** me. lol
Final thoughts though, just makes sure it has a good bypass valve and tube on whatever yall use. If the bypass valve is faulty it will either leak the entire time and not filter the oil hardly at all or it may not open the one time you need it.
I think the Toyota PNs can be fine if you desire metal. I know the desire some people have to tinker.

 

I had the O-ring jump the groove one time, end up at the end flange. Owners doing their first oil change after dealership maintenance have found the filter missing. The filters weren’t cheaper, though that’s trivial.

maybe too easy…

its 18 stock, 13 spin on (or 3/4 turn past contact)

 

Trust me after lubing the oring and tighening by hand it wont come off by hand lol. You still need a filter wrench.
I'm not changing what works though. I've been doing this forever with no problems on multiple vehicles.

 

There is a tool that comes with the Toyota filter that you screw into that spot, and
attach a hose to drain the filter so it's not a mess when you remove it.

 

Oh I know, that permanent housing is a fight till the o-ring finally exits the barrel.

Regarding the to-convert-or-not topic:

I've done about 24 oil changes on our 2010 (every 6 months for 12 years). About 10 of those years with the stock oil filter situation, just got tired of it. And concerned since that time the o-ring decided to relocate on the way in.

And once: I just about put the cap on without the new filter in place. If something can be done, it might be done, sooner or later.

Like I said earlier, pretty sure there were two reports here, owner doing first oil change after dealership service, found not filter in there.

 

I read through all the posts and am still confused. Could someone summarize it briefly the necessity to replace the stock plastic housing with a metal one, before the plastic one is damaged?

 

Sadly, some mechanics over tighten the plastic, and also the aluminum one. That makes it
extremely difficult to remove. Even when using the correct housing removal tool.
Because it's a plastic type housing, it tends to bend, then eventually break.
In theory, this won't happen with the aluminum one.

But, if you don't overtighten the plastic one, there won't be a problem. At least for a long time.
I only have just over 285,000 miles on mine, but I don't have a problem removing mine.
I use a 6inch wrench to tighten it, snugly. Just enough for the clip to catch, which makes
difficult for it to back out.

 

How about this:

Toyota commenced fourth gen with permanent oil filter housing, then (part way through model year 2017 IIRC), they switched to spin-on.

FWIW, I did my conversion on a whim, original was still in good shape, still have it. It cost less than $100 CDN, all in. Not too difficult: raised car, took off underpanel, took off front/passenger wheel, removed some of the plastic fasteners of wheel well liner and flex it out of the way.

You'll need a 12 mm hex driver for the union. And a torque wrench is worthwhile. You can reuse the the old hold-down bolts I'd say, but replace the two o-rings behind the oil filter housing, they're cheap.

 

It's not possible to overtighten the aluminum filter housing. It only threads in a finite amount, then there is a physical stop (separate from the threading) that prevents further torqueing of the housing.

There is no stop like that on the plastic housing. Also, someone said, over time and exposure to heat, the plastic housing material swells, making it even tighter and difficult to remove. Aluminum will not absorb oil and any thermal expansion will be negligible, as the threading is not machined with a close enough tolerance to make any difference.

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