Question on Traction Battery data re P0A0D

Hello everyone!
Wondering if anyone can confirm my ideas on the information I am getting on Dr Prius regarding a dead traction battery on a 2012 Prius V.
The vehicle system reads 0% charge on traction battery, as does Dr Prius app.

What is confusing to me is that the app also shows the battery voltage at 170.22v, which I would assume means it is in fact NOT at 0%?

I am about to inspect and see if I can find any corrosion around the rear wiring harness that may lead to this fault.

Of course, I cannot start the engine, BUT, it has tried to start a couple times. I believe the DTC I got after a failed start was P3000. I would clear the code through Dr Prius and also disconnect the 12v battery for a few minutes.

I have tried reseating the orange breaker-type configuration with no results.

I am looking at replacing the traction battery but want to be sure that I do not still have issues after that is done.

Thank you so much for any input! I will also update as to anything I may find.

 

Started getting P0B51 and P3000
I read that P0B51 could be caused by corrosion and the bars did not look great.
I removed everything, disassembed and cleaned up the bars and vibrated the nuts in glass for a few hours.
Upon reassembly I only noticed a slight uptick in overall voltage (didn't expect that) but nothing else. I'm pretty convinced it can't be anything other than the HY battery or battery control (computer), it's just confusing to me that it can show 0% charge while showing +172v.
Maybe someone can provide me with some insight when/if moderators approve my posts.

 

Understood. Yeah what happened here is the car was left to sit for a very long time.
I realized afterwards that the deviation in the pack voltage was the result of a snapshot of a varying measurement..

I get that, now. I was just interpreting the nomenclature as absolute voltage translating to proportionate SOC.
I did forget to update that the P0A0D was indeed the safety lock not being fully engaged. After doing that, I was only getting the P3000 and P0B51

I had read about someone having success with eliminating the P3000 after cleaning all the contacts and they were pretty corroded so I figured it could not hurt anything, at least.

I merely was interpreting the nomenclature relative to these specific applications as voltage being a direct proportion, top to bottom, of SOC. It hardly seems unreasonable to expect there to be a direct proportion as a logical guess. Clearly that is not the case and that is all that I was asking.

I understand the concept. I don't think using SOC as a determination of variable applications would be useful in clarifying a pretty straightforward explanation of what Prius considers %SOC in relation to available voltage

No, I would not consider a 12v battery at 8/9 volts to be 0% SOC in typical context as there is still charge remaining, < 100%. A quite literal interpretation would say 8v would be ~66% of charge of a 12v battery,

That makes complete sense, I just wasn't looking at it that way.


I went to pick up a refurbished battery today and it turns out they did not have it in stock. They DID have some blades/cells on hand so I thought what the heck, I am going to try them for now just to see how that works out.
Dr Prius has identified the potential block issues so I am testing them individually, now.

Just for reference sake, I am not an absolute pleb when it comes to cars or electrical applications, although my electrical experience is more with AC as a Class 2 Electrician for Northrop Grumman. I also spent a very long stretch as an expert in vintage Jaguars, as well currently own a BMW specialty shop that I have operated for close to 15 years.

Thank for the replies.

 

Oh no not at all, no ruffling here haha.

It appears most likely that the installers that do not require a core (those that are understandably more expensive) and the only ones that are likely to have a literally brand new battery.
The very reason the less expensive installers require a core is that is exatly the part they will refurbish and resell (See: "refurbish" (cycle) the cells as well as balance and charge the whole battery array)

I went with what was at hand. I went to buy a refurbished battery {as I said, I didn't mean anything other than what I said) and not pay for the installation as I didn't require it.
Had that worked as planned it would have been a simple matter of taking it home and installing.

Sure, it was time consuming to balance all the cells manually with a desktop power supply but it appears to have worked out fine.
This is a friends car and they have more time than money.
Sure, this battery caused me much more hassle and time but I'm trying to work within their parameters.

Turns out what they anticipated as a "head gasket" issue was far worse, and the reason the engine wouldn't start even with a decent charge is it was froze up tight.

It's been replaced now with a low mileage JDM engine.

Added bonus: the EGR cooler on the JDM engine was pristine!

 

In theory, yes. Very likely the battery would have functioned properly, although 2-3 of the modules were definitely on the way out.
Dr Prius app helped me look at which blades to single out, and I went ahead and charged/load tested all the remaining blades and it all looks to be in a good condition, now.
Only issue I am potentially looking at is Dr Prius showing proper voltage but zero SOC. I am assuming this is something with the lock out and should be easy to track down once the last modules (5&6, right at the safety lock out so they got skipped in charging) are charged and I can read the codes.

You mean the 12v? It's new and all the modules in the HV/Traction battery have been extensively tested and all seem to be in great condition.
As far as head gasket or burning oil: JDM are a fantastic resource for replacement/upgrade engines. I know people that have drawn on this for many years with great success.
The reason for their availability is the tremendously strict emissions regulations in Japan. Once an engine reaches 100,000km, it is easier to replace the engine than try and make the original engine meet specs.
As a result, all of the available engines are <60k miles and cost 50% or less than used engines in the US with 3x the mileage.

 

If it were MY car, I would absolutely go with the NexPower Lithium upgrade, for not much more than a brand new NiMh.

 

Well I am sort of back at square one with voltage/SOC.

Does the light green mean that only #12 is in the proper range, and I need to charge all the others more?

Clearly in a much better position now that at the beginning. I'm in the process of bringing module 3 up to closer to balanced.

It's been a bit of whack a mole charging 2 modules at a time, they don't always end up with even charge.

I did NOT read the current DTC codes so there is a possibility that will tell me something but I feel this "0% SOC" is an intermittent thing and am leaning towards it being an issue with the safety lock out mechanism/connection.

Once module 3 is up to 15.23v I will reconnect and check OBC codes.

 

Not yet, haven't had enough voltage to start, or at least that is what it appears to be. .
There's so much conflicting information out there.

I have found that 15.7v/module is barely enough to register as SOC.
I found that when aiming more towards 16v+/module I am actually seeing a percentage of SOC. I wasn't sure if not seeing this was a fault condition or something else.
Turns out the monitoring is working fine, there just wasn't enough voltage presence to register.

I'm changing everything to 8v/blade to see what results that provides.