Got sold a lemon

The hub job is easy as all get out You just want to make sure your sensors are pulled out maybe even unplugged and laid on the floor of the car where you put your feet when you're driving just so they're not getting snatched jerked and fubar. Other than that it's just the big nut at the wheel end of the axle that you can undo while the cars wheels are on the ground with a long 24-in or so breaker bar 1/2-in drive in the right socket or you can have a nice expensive electric or pneumatic wrench either way I opt for the pneumatic wrench because sometimes I'm doing this in other places. It's a pretty straightforward piece of work I might even take the old hubs off the car you just wrecked and put the bearings in them hang the new lower ball joints on each of them have everything ready to go so all I have to do is unbolt slide on the whole new aluminum hub with all the new pieces in it put the bolts back in put the sensor back on drop that side on to other.

 

How do you know? If he gets it all sorted out for under $1,000, he’ll be in great shape.

 

Drat. Can you drill out the old bolt and then get a replacement? PB blaster and heat also helps a lot.

 

You’ll need to use an easy out to remove what’s left of the bolt. Lots of PBlaster, heat, and an easy out. Pain in the butt!!!

 

Was it a Toyota dealership? From my experience with them, they rarely sell older-used cars to the public but resell them to used car folks to get them off their lot.
Funny story, when I lived in Alaska (Anchorage), I picked up my bosses old Chevy Vega for a couple hundred bucks but I kept it going until I went to the Ford Dealership to buy a new Voyager Van. (Pretty nice van but ended up with a horrible transmission.) Anyway, I parked the old 70's Vega rust-bucket out front while I worked on the paperwork. After a while, a manager came out asking the salesmen what the deal was with the Vega. When he found out it was being traded in, he made a guy get my keys so they could drive it around back, away from public view! (I just laughed but didn't blame him!)

 

You can get left hand drill bits I have some right here in the toolbox so that when you peen center punch the bolt after filing flat . So that while you're drilling the wrong way your drill bit may catch and twist that threaded piece right out leaving your hole intact and all of that obviously use the drill bit that's a little smaller than the 6 mm bolt you're removing Erwin and Craftsman also have reverse thread remover tools and there are arsenal also.

 

Screw Extractor and Left-Hand Drill Bit Combo Set, 10 Piece
Kinda both. $10 at Harbor freight. That and PB Blaster from the auto parts store work well. While your at the auto store I would buy 2 new bolts one for each side and copper anti seize they have mini packets at the register for $2 at Oriely's

 

Ideally you want to file down the part that sticking up then take a center punch in the center of that 6 mm bolt that you just filed and center punch that put a dimple in the metal now take a small drill bit like I don't know 16th of an inch of real tiny and drill that dimple or that center punch oh I don't know maybe a half inch in If you have a reverse drill bit fine If not you're putting the small hole first with the regular right-handed twist drill If you have the Craftsman extractor set they go in reverse if you read the instructions you can maybe able to get the small one of those into that little hole but I kind of doubt it You're going to be better off with the left hand twist drill as it is just a twist drill it doesn't have all the nonsense that the extractor has on it which is good for larger things but even the smallest one is going to have a tough time with this I believe it's 6 mm or whatever the size is The twist drill just a little bigger than an eighth inch or whatever we'll probably go in catch and maybe run the piece out rather than drilling it to the right and tightening it more If you drill all the way through it with the small drill bit you can even shoot some WD-40 or PB blaster in the hole and get it in behind some of the threads. A little heat and a left hand twist drill might go a long way and it'll run right out

 

Yeah that happens Best thing to do is when you're buying the things make sure they have a hole in the spliens in the middle. The rear solid nothing goes through a hole that's not there

 

If the bolt was over torqued it can crack but stay intact until it needs to come out, at which point it snaps.

 

Yep, most have a similar reaction to Tom's posts.
But it's all good.

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