Need Some Real Advice On My 2007 Prius with Red Triangle and Brake Warning Lights

Might as well . It's time or very close .done a few really common. It's funny the 2016 and later Corollas and most Toyotas the part that fails in the brakes only 140 or 50 bucks

 

a low 12v can cause the computers to do some funny things sometimes, as reported here occasionally.

but if your car is starting fine, it probably isn't the problem. you can get a free load test at autozone.

 

If the brake actuator is running every several seconds, even when you're not using the brakes, it's ready to be replaced.

1. Be careful, go slow, put all fasteners into labelled zip-lock bags so you know exactly where they go. Take photos along the way.
2. When I did mine, I used Techstream to drain the accumulator (pressurized fluid) back to the reservoir then immediately pulled the relays and disconnected the 12v battery. Leakage or not, I don't take a chance with pressurized hydraulic systems.
3. Have some zipties available to hold wires and such out of the way once disconnected.
4. Get some hose clamps so you can pinch off the brake fluid lines from the reservoir, otherwise you'll make a mess. I use small long nose vice grips with rubber tubing slid over the jaws. The tension is adjustable and works great for squeezing hoses shut.
5. The inverter can be moved out of the way without disconnecting the coolant lines. You just have to wiggle the coolant lines out of their place holders at the radiator so you have enough slack to set the inverter out of the way.
6. Do not forget to detach the inverter cooling system bleed line from front of the inverter before trying to move the inverter.
7. Definitely use brake fitting wrenches to ensure you don't strip the brake lines. If they're all original, they shouldn't be super tight. The ones I've done have always come loose relatively easy, but this is something you don't want to mess up.
8. If you have the opportunity, I HIGHLY recommend removing one from a junkyard car first, just to get some experience.

 

x2 for brake actuator failing. You will need a capable scantool to bleed the new actuator after installation, and to "learn" the linear solenoid offset.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

+3 to the above advice you've received regarding your brake system DTCs.

I'll address your other question that has not been addressed so far.

No, and no. There is a lot of erroneous comment in regard to the 12 V battery made here and in other places on the internet. That doesn't make it true. Too many folk get so blinkered it causes tunnel vision. Quite simply the 12 V battery just needs to be checked and tested that it holds voltage under load and that it has a decent charge then move on.

This is most like caused by water dripping onto the connector for the fan (situated in the RR wheel well above the cooling fan). You have two options:

1. Cut out the damaged connector and replace it with a 3-pin waterproof marine connector; or
2. Cut out the damaged connector and simply solder each of the three wires together and heat shrink each joint.

Good luck with these repairs.

 

There are several things to check for code P0A84:

• Wire harness or connector
• BATT FAN fuse
• No. 1 battery blower relay
• Battery blower - Quarter vent duct (blower motor controller)
• Battery ECU

The attached inspection procedure will cover the testing in the order above.

 

There is another method for brake bleeding that you can attempt, which I've tried and it worked 100%. There's no guarantee it will work for you though!

Go to harbor freight and purchase their brake bleed kit that allows a one person operation.
Be sure to clamp off the rubber lines leaving the brake fluid reservoir prior to removing the actuator.
After you're done with the actuator swap job, do not reconnect the 12v battery until after the bleed is complete.
Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. The kit uses a collection container that holds a few ounces of fluid. Use the bleed kit to pull 2 containers of fluid out of the rear driver side bleed fitting. Then do the same for the rear passenger side. Then front passenger, then front driver. Right or wrong, that's the order I used.
When you operate the tool, you'll see fluid and air moving in the tube. A lot of the air is from the vacuum sucking air in at the hose/bleeder joint, but it's nothing to worry about. Be sure to keep the reservoir full. I just filled it after each full bleed container. I went through one large container of brake fluid. I did this recently and it worked. The brakes were as rock solid as the techstream bleed. This was done after installing a used actuator, so a new one may or may not have different results. Could be worth trying, and if not rock solid, maybe at least good enough to comfortably get you to a dealer for proper bleeding.