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Need help from high/super-high-mileage Gen2 owners on most-failed parts

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by pmelc1, Jun 1, 2023.

  1. pmelc1

    pmelc1 New Member

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    I have an '06 Prius (base model hybrid, not plug-in) with 160-170k miles (don't know actual mileage since combimeter has been out for years). I was in a number of fender benders (including a large deer that ran directly into the side of my car (in rural Norway, long story), and another one that wasn't my fault) and several years ago bought a totaled '06 Prius (approx 110k miles) with rear-end damage in a Copart auction for about $1000, then got a cheapo paint job at Maaco to freshen it up. From what I've gathered the previous owner was fanatical about maintenance and I believe the motor and transmission are in very good shape. The car did start when I picked it up and the motor ran like new, everything was immaculate other than the rear end crunch in one corner. It's the limited edition or whatever it's called in Priuses.

    I already got $1000-1500+ worth of doors, hood, seats, and other parts off of the parts Prius and want to take the motor, transmission, and other parts off of it in order to lengthen the life of my working Prius as much as possible (if it's another 10+ years, great). I love the car and still like the look of it. I was storing it for free at a mechanic friend's shop for years (huge property), but he passed away unexpectedly and his son inherited the land and had all vehicles removed.

    Due to limited parking at my property I need to strip down the parts Prius for what's worth paying a mechanic to take off, and sell it for scrap. The cheapest parking around here is probably around $50/month and that seems questionable as far as being worthwhile. One mechanic I talked to agreed to take out the ICE, transmission, ABS module, hybrid battery, and one of the front seats for $500 labor, which seems more than fair. I'm guessing I can get a couple hundred bucks for the scrap value to defray that cost. Once the parts are off I can store them easily.

    To get to the point, what are the parts I should take out based on what is highest value (either as a replacement part, or for resale) and/or likeliest to fail? So far I'm considering taking out the following:

    1) Gas/combustion engine
    2) Electrical engine/inverter (is this worthwhile or rarely ever fails? will taking the other stuff out basically require removal of this anyway?)
    3) Transmission
    4) Hybrid battery (is this likely to have deteriorated? It's been sitting unused for 5-6 years)
    5) ABS module (I've been driving for 10+ years without it, but if future wife etc demands it be there I want to have the part on hand)

    Any thoughts/recommendations are appreciated.
     
    #1 pmelc1, Jun 1, 2023
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2023
  2. Moving Right Along

    Moving Right Along Senior Member

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    Catalytic converter. Those are worth $1000+ in rare metals alone (which is why they get stolen)
     
  3. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    ^ That.

    The catalyst is by far the most valuable single item remaining in an old Prius coming off the road. It is most valuable to somebody outside of California who has had their cat stolen recently, because it can be a simple bolt-on replacement. (People in California want it too, but it's not legal for professionals to install secondhand cats there.)

    It can also be sold for the valuable scrap metal it holds, but you don't recover as much value that way.

    That old traction battery won't have any value as a battery, but may still have value as a core to return if buying a new one on exchange terms.

    Engine, transmission, maybe the instrument cluster so you can fix one on the bench while the other is in the car? Take the whole brake booster/master cyl assembly.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    How have you been driving with no ABS accumulator pump whatever Is it removed from the car I don't think that's likely so you're just pushing pushing through and using the hydraulics only which I think would only be activating the fronts as the rears are completely handled by the computer and ABS pump I do believe and just trying to figure out how this works You say I haven't used or haven't had the ABS for years what does that mean? Very interesting so your car has a rear disc brakes too Is this correct? The US models do not until the generation 3 I mean I would keep the front hub assemblies the whole aluminum block with the lower ball joint and all that attached just to make it easier to swap from whichever car to whatever vehicle You can load them up with new bearings and loads assemblies rather than trying to beat assemblies off in the Norway weather exposure and do it mostly inside just put the assembly on the car how I do it here and I have much better weather than there
     
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Dash vents if in uncracked condition
    The multi-function display
    The steering wheel if in good condition and the optional leather type model
    The rear view model if it's the optional one with garage door controls
    The engine and transaxle can be removed from the top as a single unit by removing interference above it.
    The inverter needs to be removed to remove engine/transaxle from top.
    The brake actuator is worth keeping if it works properly
    The inverter cooling water pump
    The 4 way control valve (if the European model uses the coolant canister)
    The headlights if in decent shape
    Although the hybrid battery may be of no value, the ecu could be worth $100+ if it doesn't have corrosion problems on the socket pins
    If the OEM catalytic converters are still present, they are very valuable. They will each be stamped with a Toyota symbol and one will be stamped EA6 and one stamped GD3.
    The airbags may have value.
     
  6. pmelc1

    pmelc1 New Member

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    Already been stolen unfortunately -- from both my own vehicle and the Copart vehicle (someone stole all the cats from the lot where I was stealing it). I have a decent-quality Walker one on there now with a cat guard.
     
  7. pmelc1

    pmelc1 New Member

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    I bought the car in 2012 with 30k miles. I believe the ABS-module code went on a year or two later. I noticed a slight difference in braking but it was ultra-pricey to fix and didn't really affect driving so I just ignored it. I'm a 'conservative braker' and tend to brake early and avoid hard stops. I didn't need to change my original brake pads until 125k miles. The assisted breaking surely helped with that too.

    I'm not really sure if I have ABS or not since I don't often put my brakes to the full test. I think I do but that the module may just enhance them? Not sure. I know that my brakes have never locked up. The official Prius tech at the dealer (I only go there for diagnostics not repairs) advised me off the record to continue ignoring it and that it's not worth fixing.

    I'm not in Norway now but lived in Europe for three years, RO/RO'd the car twice (the second trip was not anticipated beforehand, and made sense for variety of reasons). Prius is in Northeast US currently. Appreciate the other tips and will likely add some of them in considering the pretty-low labor charge. I also have to make sure the car can be pulled by tow truck though so I can get it off property / sell for scrap.
     
    #7 pmelc1, Jun 5, 2023
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2023
  8. pmelc1

    pmelc1 New Member

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    Good call on the airbags, thanks. Cat already stolen off of both vehicles, have aftermarket cat currently. Headlights already used. It's a US model, will look into 4-way valve. I already replaced inverter water pump with a new unit, but will grab the one off this as a backup in case it goes again. It has a rear view camera which mine doesn't, may grab that. My steering wheel is beat to hell, will check out condition of the other one.

    I bought a combimeter off of Ebay because I figured this one may go soon as it is. Also the labor charge to disassemble the dash on the parts Prius wouldn't be cheap, so I was looking maybe like $50-75 difference to get an 'official' refurbished one ($150ish).
     
    #8 pmelc1, Jun 5, 2023
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2023
  9. pmelc1

    pmelc1 New Member

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    Cat on both vehicles was stolen unfortunately. There was a rash of Prius cat thefts in my area. Why won't the old battery have any value? Because it's risky to install due to its age or are they known to deteriorate if unused for X years? It worked fine last I checked. The car was totaled for rear-end damage but didn't appear to affect the battery. Will take off brake booster, thanks for tip.
     
  10. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    They deteriorate with age, and disuse tends to make it worse. A 2006 battery has already got a pretty good head start on the race down. So maybe it is an exaggeration to say it has no value, but maybe not much of one.
     
  11. pmelc1

    pmelc1 New Member

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    Yeah I see what you're saying. I suspected that might be the case but wasn't sure. Either way might ultimately be worth a couple hundred as a core (or as a DIY refurbish).