Return or Keep 2013 Prius with ? battery health and clunk from steering column

If the HV battery is the original, it is on its last leg. Since you just purchased the car, I am assuming you plan on keeping it awhile. If that is the case, I would research buying a new HV battery instead of a rebuilt. Your HV battery may still be under warranty so I would check with a dealer about that. Not sure what the clunk/rattle issue is.

 

i would return it if you can find something better for 16k. that seems like a lot of money, but we're in a strange universe right now

 

I returned a Corolla after I found out they painted it and never told me. I bought 3 cars from Carmax.........never again. After my experience with the manager. I will never go back. 45 percent is not ideal on the hybrid pack. Are you willing to spend $2,200 on a new hybrid battery to keep the car for another 5 years? If not.....I'd look elsewhere.

 

Wife had a similar experience from Carmax 5 years ago. Two trade in's later we got a good car. Car's paid off, has low mileage and I am staying away from used cars.

 

Give them ONE chance to fix the car. If they don't, return it.

I don't understand why anyone would buy anything from carless. They are such
scammers.

Paying too much for something doesn't make it a good deal, except for the seller...

 

As the app probably told you, 50% is FAIR condition and 40% is POOR condition.
KBB says fair price from a dealer is $14.4, with the range $13.3 to $16.2.

I don't know what a "normal" battery health would be for that model year, but that doesn't sound good and is an expensive fix.

As to the steering wheel clunk, the Five model has the telescoping/adjustable steering wheel. RU sure the lever that locks it down is tight? Otherwise, that could be a symptom of an expensive steering problem.

If you do return it, post how that went. I know there's some hate for CarMax, but they are convenient and quick, especially for late model cars that aren't likely to have issues. But the ability to return the car -- allegedly no questions asked -- is a huge feature compared to other dealerships. So I'd be interested if they just said, "Sorry you didn't like it. Here's a full refund." or whether you got hassled or money subtracted.

 

Buy a car that shows signs of doom with thousand dollars of repair... or get another car at same price that needs no work. Keep the Prius and save the world!!!

 

If you keep it (after getting a partial refund, I hope), check this thread for help with your steering rattle. I just fixed a similar issue on mine today.

 

I'd return it at that $$$$$ Price.

 

You would be smart to return it. The $2200-$3000 battery is guaranteed to need replacement soon. Probably this year. Carmax won't do anything until it codes and that is likely after your return option expires.

Head gasket fails are expensive and common on 2010-15 Prius. Easily $3000-$5000 and could require a complete engine swap.

Brake by wire system also fails. $2,500 if you are lucky. Inverters and water pumps will spoil your commute or ruin your vacation.

Used car prices are dropping fast. Given the downsides on a gen3 Prius, it is not worth more than $8k in Central Texas. If you financed it you will be upside down in a year.

Oh did I mention they often burn oil, clog egrs and dump liquids in the intake?

 

I agree, return it. Being a Florida car there’s a good chance it was a snow bird car which means it just sat for several months every year. That’s not good. There are better ones out there for that price.

 

You could leave the car in neutral, running, and the hybrid battery would die and the car
would shut down. Then "ready" it again. Repeat. After several times, call carfakes and tell
them the hybrid battery died.... I'm certain they don't have the tools or knowhow to charge it
and will have to replace it for you. And do not let them put a "rebuilt" or "remanufactured" one
in it, insist on a NEW complete battery.

 

Same years have the same problems. Florida cars are often flooded but look nice on the outside. Your best bet in used are conventional Corollas and Civics. Hybrids are the most complex cars ever made and 2010-15 are old and full of expensive problems.

 

If you really need to drive 20k+ miles per year, a hybrid can unlock some useful savings on fuel.

If you don't need to drive that much, a Corolla/Civic can save you more money overall even though you'll pay a little more at the pump.

And when you're talking about used vs. new, a used Corolla is waaay lower risk than a used Prius.

 

Watch this video on the Lexus version of the gen3 Prius. Same issues:

This guy is a decades long dealer Master mechanic who just last year opened his own shop. When it comes to gen3, a year ago he was a fan of these cars. But dealer mechanics rarely see high mile gen3s, many are even junked when serious engine problem occurs. Now he sees youtubers and everybody else who wants Toyota/Lexus repairs. He has seen many of the gen3 problems and finally realizes what is going on. He was even embarrassed a bit because he underestimated this car's problems. Meanwhile taxi companies, uber drivers and other commercial drivers are willing to change engines to stretch the car to 400k-500k miles.

This car was run way too long with a hg leak and has coolant in the oil. Most gen3 hg fails do not get this bad, ever. The majority leak so infrequently and so little at first, the owners do not realize a few drops of coolant was burned and replaced with combustion gas.

He does talk about the egr mimicking a blown head gasket BUT only if the egr valve sticks open causing exhaust gas flow to the cylinders at low rpms. Completely the opposite of the clogged scenario constantly discussed by some. Even a stuck open egr scenario is different, it won't clear in 10 seconds. It will seem ok at higher rpm because an open egr is normal and expected at cruising speeds. He has another video where he simply blocks the easy to access egr tube with a metal shim. Bottom line cold start shake rattles that go away quickly, usually for days or weeks, only to return, is not an egr.

People who often spend $1000 installing plugs, coils and sometimes injectors often achieve "success" for two weeks before the hg rattle hits again. In fact they wasted their money, often at the direction of local mechanics or forum advisors. Egr cleanings are ok but won't solve an existing rattle. Another $800 down the drain if done by a dealer, particularly sad since a required head gasket job is the time to clean things.

He also shows the "clutch" damper which is not a controllable clutch but is a slip mechanism that causes the rattling when hg leaks cause misfires which then cause the severe metal to metal rattle. He also discusses excessive oil consumption caused by low tension rings.

The purpose of revised egr software is stated to increase flow in hopes of flushing some carbon. Finally he makes an argument that the revised head gasketwill protect the engine better than the original. A better argument is long intervals between coolant and oil changes is a factor as is excessive oil consumption and blowby. He is still learning as we are or should be.

 

Excellent video rjparker! This guy breaks it all down and it totally makes sense with the issues of the Gen III. I have a 2015 that was built late 2015. So I am pretty sure I have the new head gasket, piston and piston rings. I also had my coolant replaced at 65k (lots of people in here said it was too soon). I also had the tranny flushed and replaced at 65k, new plugs intake ports cleaned, egr cleaned and replaced water pump. I should be good for another 50k or more.