Radiator Fans ON & OFF at Full Speed when AC is Turned ON

Do you know the shop work on your vehicle recharge the Prius correctly when it’s 105° outside and it’ll come out anywhere between 39°F and 43°F out the dash.

If somebody tells you 50+ degrees or 60° is normal out the dash on 105 Fahrenheit degree day look for a different shop for technician.

 

Hello yes during a full recharge they put new gas normally?I'll go to a "green light" garage, I'll tell them that they have the prescribed oil put in.I happened to be cold but not when it is over 30 degrees Celsius and the motor fan always runs permanently if the temperature is set to low or intermittently if set around 20 degrees Celsius but I recharged directly using a can in the circuit must have taken in air and overloaded. Can we with techstream see values?

 

Remove the propane and additives, add r134a after a vacuum using a scale.

 

https://www.feuvert.es/servicios-taller-climatizacion/feu-vert-aire-fresco-gas-r134a/p438682.html

Is this operation sufficient?

 

No. It does not include vacuum and does not suggest they will weigh in the refrigerant.

The use of the wrong refrigerant, oils or additives in a Toyota variable speed compressor with high voltage windings can eventually cause high voltage codes, compressor failure and worse.

By the way, you have not told us the year and model. You have not shared the refrigerant information on a label in the engine compartment. You have not told us if a Toyota dealer has done any diagnosis or work.

I would check out Lech Auto's ac videos on youtube.

Finally it is best in the future to create your own thread instead of confusing things by adding to an existing thread.

 

I find myself in the same situation so I allow myself to comment. I have a Toyota Auris 2 phase 1 from November 2013 and gas r410a

It seems in the description of the intervention that they make a vacuum and then they put new gas and not just the same one by adding some if it is missing

 

That's right; the proper charge for the system is a certain mass of refrigerant, and when an unknown amount has been lost, there is no accurate way to know how much is still inside or how much to add.

Evacuating the system and adding the proper amount of refrigerant is the accurate way.

 

Typically it is r134a in older vehicles and R1234yf in most 2017 and newer.

If it is r410a then that should be used. The quantity would or should be listed on an engine compartment label.

In the US r410a would be used in larger residential and commercial applications rather than a car. It is a blend and requires liquid charging, sometimes with an orifice in the charging hose path.

However most references I find on a 2013 Auris 2 hybrid indicate it was still r134a using 0.470 kg refrigerant, the same as a Prius of the same year. Some sources indicate it could be r134a or r1234yf from Oct 2012- Dec 2018 (end of r134a). May be different where you are.

See Air conditioning issues - Auris Club - Toyota Owners Club - Toyota Forum

 

I would love to see R410 started to be used and implemented by manufactures tomorrow in automobiles.
Just to see the faces of automotive technicians when they get the first one into their shop looking at the pressures

Low side, pressure 126 psi, high side, pressure 570 to 630 psi . But it’s coming out the dash at 48°F.. on a 90° day

 

Sorry it's 134a I always confuse it with the air conditioning at home

 

I just leave the garage before using techstream and the high pressure sensor I had around 290psi on low now i am around 176 in low the values seem correct? The fan no longer turns at high speed after the return trip and the low pressure pipes are wet

 

is your Ducted Outlet – temperature somewhere around 39°F to 43°F ?

What is the ambient outdoor temperature?

does someone have stored away Toyotas cheat sheet on temperatures of pressure relationship chart they could post up for him. For the Prius.

 

Evaporator outlet temperature? Was throwing at 2 degrees or 36 f°

It is 90° outside, the person told me that it was the quantity of gas that he wrote there, so 470 grams, the oil is not changed systematically?

 

What exactly is the problem you have now?

Did they pull out the propane blend you had in it and weigh in r134a?

 

I don't have a problem I just want to know from the value I find if the air conditioning is in good working order. People told me that they removed the gas and then put the appropriate amount of gas with a vacuum before, there is no systematic addition of oil?

 

Here are a couple of Tom's (Lech Air) videos that reflect the right way to vacuum and recharge. Note he carefully weighs in the gas into a vacuum without the system running. About 15 seconds and exact because it is weighed in. Then he runs the system at max with doors open and fresh air intake. He reads pressures and temperatures, not just Techstream's high pressure sensor.

At the end the pressures don't match a standard car cheat sheet for r134a since Toyota's compressor controls are more advanced. Variable not just on and off.

Watch in order:
Normal Pressures?

Accurate recharge process:

and

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Perfect charge screenshot from the last video reads 312 / 109 psi. This was at 68-70f ambient and with humidity.


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Below is a chart that shows conventional single speed r134a pressures vs ambient. Compare to above.

Not accurate for a Toyota hybrid. Weigh in r134a.

 

Agree in this case the table is not sufficient, I do not know exactly what procedure was applied apart from the fact that they put the quantity prescribed by the manufacturer, can we check otherwise

 

Those videos spell it out from arguably one of the best experts in the US particularly on Toyota variable capacity ac systems. The procedures are there.

He points out a proper Toyota hybrid ac system will cool the car completely at virtually any outside temp. For a consumer that is usually enough.

A system with the wrong refrigerant like you had will often ruin the compressor over a period of time. Most of these systems outlast the engine with no maintenance.

The standard methods include checking airflow, a variety of temps, subcool and superheat, all under maximum load. Using digital gauges and probes makes it easier.

 

Seconds into the first video he says he pulled 375g out of the system.
And that it was NOT full. Showing the sticker of 420g. But, he didn't complete the reading of the
label: 420g +/- 50g which would be 370g. So acording to Toyota's sticker, the system IS full!
Certainly, getting it exactly at 420g would be ideal. But there is a +/- for a reason. Because
nothing is perfect.

The site glass tells you that there is enough in the system to keep it from burning up....
Yes, the incorrect cabin air filter will restrict flow and making the system work harder to cool
the cabin.

It's nice when you have all the fancy expensive equipment. I do miss the lift and shop equipment....
But not everyone has that or access to it. Nor do they have the $1000 dollars to get all the work done.

So, they must get by with what they have access too. Because they need a/c, and don't have all that money.

The same applies with any other work on the Prius, or any car for that matter.

The Prius A/C is a very precise and a few grams makes a lot of difference.

So give the none perfect stupid people trying get by a break.

 

I particularly liked Tom's video because he explained how a range of refrigerant charge can be used by the ecm to maintain compressor capacity. However that range in that vehicle was compromised by a clogged filter impacting airflow.

We also know refrigerant at a minimum level will result in low subcool, which can impact max cooling performance if there is any condenser or evaporator airflow reduction.

Likewise max refrigerant results in high subcool which risks system damage unless pressures and capacity are limited by ecm reductions in compressor capacity. Which then impacts cooling performance and apparently was Ops initial complaint.

Further complicated by hydrocarbon refrigerant used in the Ops system instead of or topping off r134a.