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Need help reading DTCs due to A/C failure.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Tynyyn, Aug 12, 2023.

  1. Tynyyn

    Tynyyn Member

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    My Prius is a '05 with 275K on the clock. The wife was driving it to work the other morning and the A/C stopped working, boy was she pissed. Anyways, after previewing some of the threads on how to fix a broken A/C, I stumbled upon a thread that said the inverter pump might be bad and thus force shutting down the A/C compressor in order to keep the Inverter alive until repairs can be done. So this morning I replaced the Inverter pump and started the Prius up to see if this fixed the no A/C problem. While running the engine I did notice a weird sound coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. It wasn't a grinding noise but similar, kinda a brrrrrrrr noise. This got me thinking about if my A/C compressor is dead.

    So I tripped on over to PriusChat and begin reviewing threads about Compressor failure and one fellow posted something that piqued my interest. He stated that DTCs could be retrieved by pressing a couple of buttons on the steering wheel and then press the start button a couple of time and the DTCs will appear on the MFD.

    Thus, now I come to the smart guys on this forum who have the knowledge of the Prius Gods and am humbly asking for your assistance. Could you tell me what DTC 21, 42, and 76 mean?

    Thanks.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    21 is no biggie. It's not even really a trouble code. It's just so you can tell whether the sun sensor on the dash works. When there's strong sun shining on the dash, there should be no 21, and without strong sun, there should be 21. That's all there is to that.

    42 is an issue with the servo controlling the air inlet (fresh vs. recirc). I wouldn't think that would lead to an "A/C stopped working" complaint, more that you'd notice the air wasn't as fresh as you wanted (or more fresh than you wanted).

    76 is the power to the compressor being cut because an incorrect amount of power drawn was detected. That can mean the refrigerant is undercharged or overcharged, or the cooling fans under the hood aren't working, or the compressor is pushing up daisies.
     
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Near 300K on the original system is pretty darn good It would not surprise me if you're compressor is starting to go south not at all actually 200 I would think it was a little soon.
     
  4. Tynyyn

    Tynyyn Member

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    One more question.....Where is the compressor located? I've looked and haven't figured out if it's at the top of the engine, towards the rear, on the bottom or in the back of the trunk. This is like trying to find Waldo.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Down low on the front of the engine (on the end where the crankshaft pulley pokes out). There are a couple of refrigerant tubes attached to it, and three fat orange wires.
     
  6. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    As mentioned, one possible cause can be the radiator - condenser fans do not work. Turn the car on (ready) and then turn the A/C on. Check underhood, both radiators fans should be blowing air (they are fairly quiet when running at low speed).

    If not, then you need to trouble shoot the fans.

    Beyond that, I suggest you take the car to a properly equipped shop for further A/C work. If you don't have the knowledge or tools, you can get injured or do damage while trying to do things on the refrigerant system.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  7. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    The compressor is essentially part of the hybrid system and runs on high voltage three phase power. So an ac shop has to be experienced in these kinds of variable capacity systems.

    The radiator fans are an easy first check but may require a scanner to test if they were shutdown with the compressor.

    With that said, the most common problem in an unmolested system is low refrigerant charge from a condenser or evaporator leak. Simply adding r134 can easily damage the system through an overcharge or through addition of refrigerant with stopleak or the wrong oil.

    Even a normal variable capacity system won't exhibit expected pressures unless tested under high load much less a system that was shutdown by the inverter.

    Recovery, evacuation and weighing in refrigerant to the nameplate volume is required assuming refrigerant volumes are bad due to a leak or an overcharge. Some shops may do this as a diagnostic since the normal volume is around one pound.
     
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Apparently too if anything goes wrong in the air conditioning system that can shut the whole car down and put the red triangle on and then tell you you have an HV problem which can actually be just your compressor or something in that system going bad in that high voltage circuit I've got this right now. And I'm about to go out and unplug the compressor in my generation 2 that is working but I'm going to see if it's detecting something wrong in that circuit and shutting the whole mess off It seems like this can be plausible in this particular setup.
     
  9. Tynyyn

    Tynyyn Member

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    I wanted to give a follow up just in case someone in the future who has a similar problem might get to the bottom of the problem and solve it. I read a thread about looking at the radiator fans and see if they are working. Well, since I feel like I'm a three year old at times, I didn't know how to figure out how to make the fans come on. So I said, screw it, I'll just do what the author instructed....change out the relays to the fans. So I pulled the relays in the fuse box under the engine hood labeled Fan#2 and Fan#3. Took them down to O'reillys and asked if they had any in stock. The clerk found the five prong relay with no problem for eight bucks and after a long search he located the other fuse, it was only twelve bucks. Ugh, thirty dollars for two fan relays, Oh Well that's the cost of keeping momma happy. I plugged in both relays and turned on the A/C and it started blowing cold air. It was very nice not to have to pull the compressor and evacuate the freon lines along with the service cost to refill the lines with the correct amount of freon.

    This isn't a hard fix, but it took a lot of head scratching to figure out what might have been the problem. I don't understand the reasoning behind the engineering that turns off the A/C when the fans don't turn. But that's why I'm not an engineer. I'm so glad I didn't have to replace the fans or the compressor, but I did probably replace an inverter coolant pump that might not have been needed to be replaced.

    Hope this might help someone.
     
  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes you have to have freon cooling to have proper air conditioning the freon gets cooled by the two fans behind the radiator pulling air through the grill when you're idling and going slow or slower once you speed up the fans aren't really as much consequence but sitting there in the park looking at your system running with the gauges connected at shops you will see technicians put a big 24-in fan in front of the car pushing at the radiator while they're running all their checks topping off the car or replacing the gas in the refrigerant lines etc may use a big heavy duty fan to ensure that the proper cooling is taking place and so everything is working properly in the shop.
     
  11. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    So....

    The radiator fans did NOT come on before when you had the A/C turned on?

    But now they DO come on?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  12. Tynyyn

    Tynyyn Member

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    I don't know. When the A/C stopped working I can only suppose the fans stopped turning because the relay was bad. I was not in the Prius when the A/C died. I did try twice to see if the "brrrrrrrrr" noise coming out of the compressor was the culprit. It never cooled the cabin, thus I figured the compressor was dead. I did not notice, at that time, if the fans were turning, it just never occured to me to check them, plus they would not have spun anyways with a bad relay. In a normal car the fans would turn even if the compressor was dead. But the Prius engineers made the decision to have the compressor not run while the fan motor relays were not working properly. I was working off the assumption that the fans were good and were turning, but I did not check to see if that was so. Assumptions can bite you, sometimes.

    If I had known about the bad relays first my frustration level would have been low. But I had to sit in front of my computer for a few days to surf the web and try to find what might have been the culprit. So, I did the shotgun approach and on the second try I got very lucky. I was too focused on finding the cure instead of finding a flowchart on which steps to take first to find the actual problem. So now the wife is happy that she can drive a gasoline sipping whip instead of a gass guzzler. Happy wife, happy life. I'm not saying I'm the greatest Prius whisperer that has ever tinkered on a Prius, but instead, I'm one of the lucky guys who only had to tempt the Prius gods twice before they responded with a bit of good fortune.