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ZE3 warranty converter replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by January89, Jun 15, 2023.

  1. January89

    January89 New Member

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    I purchased a 2010 Prius with 200000+ miles. I think it was a good purchase. I took it to a dealership to have the dc/dc converter replaced. It was showing P0A94 code 3 times. The dealership told me it's unsafe to drive due to fire hazard. The parts are on backorder and could be a month or two potentially. They would loan me a car but I don't have full coverage insurance and it would cost over 300 close to 400 a month for me to switch to it and the dealership doesn't offer any insurance through them. I was wondering if there was somewhere I could call, maybe speak to Toyota directly. I'm just frustrated with the situation since I don't have a vehicle, especially not a 40+ mpg one. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
     
  2. January89

    January89 New Member

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    And it is covered under warranty just going to take a long time apparently.
     
  3. January89

    January89 New Member

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    I was going to replace it myself with an ebay part but I found out about the 15 year warranty and thought new parts would be best, plus they have a professional shop, proper tools, specialty trained technicians, etc.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well it's on indefinite back order so you pay three or $400 a month for a car to drive and then I'm sure there's mileage attached to that and all that too at some kind of way. Or you go to LKQ and you get an inverter out of a I don't know 2012 2013 Gen 3 5-door hatchback they're all the same The later the model the campaigns will probably be all up to date or done automatically from the factory by that time etc It's the same inverter same plugs and from places like that you can practically take one for free or very inexpensive at least here in the southeast USA would not be an issue I have a few of them sitting out here in the shed haven't ever used one. And then if you got real nervous after you swapped it out and we're driving around for a while in 5 months the dealer calls and says whatever they say bring your car in you could just put the other inverter back in boom boom off you go to the dealer for your free campaign that you're driving around with already yep.
     
  5. January89

    January89 New Member

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    Haha that would be one option.
     
  6. January89

    January89 New Member

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    Well I got the car back today and they replaced some internals in the invertor. It is still snowing P0A94 and the dealership says that the brake pump actuator has no response and therefore needs to be replaced. The speedometer is out and I was thinking it was the abs wheel sensor, specifically the left rear one that they had told me was an issue when they first did the diagnostic. Any ideas? My plan is to change brake pads all the way around replace the one sensor and see if it makes a difference. The system seems to function normally. The speedometer is out though and it does need brakes, but it's still showing P0A94. However it is only showing 1 now where it was showing 3 codes before.
     
  7. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    The brake pump has no response to what must be responding to something if breaking is normal and everything is working but you just have a code and you thank you have a wheel sensor problem Do you know you have a wheel sensor problem did the dealer see a wheel sensor problem when they still told you you had this one code or is that the only code you have? The wheel sensor will show up right quick actually in a scan so if it's not showing up there's probably not a problem cut broken whatever it'll pretty quick show up and breaking will be affected I do believe.
     
  8. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Did they fix the problem you took it in for? If not, take it back and tell them to fix it.
    If the P0A94 is why you took it in, don't pay for what they charged you for, because
    it did not fix the problem.


     
    #8 ASRDogman, Jun 29, 2023
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2023
  9. January89

    January89 New Member

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    I've been driving it the last few days and I know it's the wheel hub. They mentioned the driver rear specifically at the dealer. I checked the codes again and now all codes have gone away. I ordered a complete 4pc set. (Trq, $220 after taxes) I usually would go Moog or Timken but a complete set for those are $750 and $1000. I'll be doing all four brakes replacing all bearing hubs replacing shocks and rotating tires, changing Oil and transmission fluid flush. That's within the next week. If that doesn't remedy my ails then I'll look into swapping the brake pump actuator like the dealer suggested. Praying that's not necessary though.
     
  10. January89

    January89 New Member

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    They didn't charge me anything at the dealership. I bet they were frustrated though since it still show P0A94 when they gave it back, haha. It did clear up though. I saw the cost briefly when I picked it up. $2500 for what they did but it was covered under the extended ze3 warranty. Unlimited miles I think he said it was covered until 2029.
     
    CR94 and bisco like this.
  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    congrats!
     
  12. January89

    January89 New Member

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    I managed to resolve all issues with the car. The speedometer works now and I have no warning lights on the dash. I did not have to replace the brake system either! I bought a $12 kit of new fuses online. I referenced startmycar.com and the diagram on the cover, and started to make sure everything was in place. I had one rogue fuse that I removed and I checked to see if it made a difference once removed. There was a change on the number of dash lights after I removed it, but still fault lights. Idk why there was an extra fuse in there running a muck. After that I decided to just replace them indiscriminately with the proper amp and location. There was a 7.5 in a 30 amp location and on other like 10 in a 7.5 or something. Also the fuses were intact but had quite a bit of corrosion. It wasn't like typical electrical corrosion or rust it was some very thin film. So now I have a speedometer/odometer and regenerative braking. It is night and day in the braking system. Anyways thanks for the helpful suggestions and this forum is very useful.
    I did ohm out these fuses and they still had continuity but I don't think the proper voltage was passing through the contacts. I don't think it was just one issue but a combination of many. If there is any doubt especially on a 10-15 year car just replace the fuses the kit was only $12, especially on a hybrid with the electrical system being so integral. It definitely saved me from doing some expensive part swaps.
     
  13. January89

    January89 New Member

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    The braking was affected, however I didn't know what normal braking was haha. I bought the car in this condition.