Brake problems, how to pull a master cylinder?

The system can isolate a line when loss of pressure is detected – because of a leak for example.

So it would make sense you need to reset something after the repair, by maybe clearing any codes. I would also use the scanner to bleed the brakes, especially if you suspect air might have got into the accumulator. You need a pretty good scanner to be able to access the brake bleed routines, though.

This thread discusses various scanner options, some low-cost and some more costly. There are a few that could be used to do the brake bleeding.

 

I was going to ask if you were in some kind of country where there's some kind of problems of corrosion or rust or weird things go on but I see here in California so I seriously doubt any of those things are going on. Extracting the master cylinder or the stroke device off the firewall is probably not a good idea at this point what happened was is you lost all the fluid out of the part that's connected to the brake pedal the stroke simulator the stroke portion of the devices You push down fluid moves from what we would call the master cylinder normally on the firewall connected to the pedal goes over to the brake actuator which is the pump and accumulator and from there the computer takes over with pressures to the given wheels and what have you You lost all the hydraulic fluid between the firewall and pedal over to the accumulator. You just have to restore that hydraulic system from the pedal to the accumulator with no air and just fluid that was relatively easy to do on my car what I did. Was to crack the lines the hard metal lines coming out of the master cylinder connected to the pedal close off the soft lines from the reservoir to the accumulator pump but left the line open from the reservoir to the stroke portion or the master cylinder connected to the pedal doing that allowed fluid to run from the reservoir to the stroke master cylinder thingy and then it pushed air out of those hard metal lines along with fluid right down to the ground or to the under shield of the car I let this go on until I saw a quarter inch vanish from the reservoir then I tightened up the fittings on the stroke thingy master cylinder on the firewall connected to the pedal I added more fluid to the reservoir back to where it's supposed to be. And then I took the relays out and I had my wife pump the brakes up and I bled the left front and then the right front brakes just like you do a regular car pump pump hold crack zerk fluid starts to come out close it up do it again. Reinstall the relays and then start working on the back left assistant pumps up the back crack the fitting fluid squirts out right smartly because it's handled by I guess just the pump and accumulator and it will squirt you in the face so beware of this. The backs I noticed they didn't even need the assistant I just cracked the left one first it squirted out a right good stream of fluid I literally left it do that for 10 11 seconds closed it up check the reservoir add some fluid go do the left side now in the rear this left me with a all lights off on the warning lights for the brakes and the brakes working and the pedal feeling normal this all happened without using TIS so I didn't even bleed with TIS the accumulator pump assembly mine's been working perfectly for the last I don't know six seven months. I just did a customer's car and was able to get TIS to do the complete bleed procedure on the customer's car it came out just like the car I drive everyday but I was able to do it completely with TIS. I also don't generally let the stroke thing or the master cylinder go dry when I disassemble the system to change the accumulator pump which is usually the case. I use block off pliers to clamp off all three of the lines from the reservoir to whatever they're feeding these are the soft lines so that when I take the accumulator pump out the fluid that's in the stroke simulator or the master cylinder never leaves it The minute it does you're stuck trying to bleed everything with gobs of air in it.

 

Toyota Techstream software on an old laptop via a mini-VCI dongle has brake repair and brake bleeding functions... Also 12v needs to be disconnected when doing brake work because the pump is always on.