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2008 gen 2 Prius. Car suddnely stopped working. Can start but will not stay running. Codes below

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by JoeDog99, Aug 23, 2023.

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  1. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    My prius recently stopped working suddenly while driving. After stopping it and trying to restart it it would turn on but not stay running and makes a lot of noise from the engine.


    I got the codes read and they came back as:

    C1241
    C1242
    C1311
    C1377
    C1378


    I did check and the Am2 fuse was blown. After replacing it the dash lights returned and the car did run enough to drive forward and backward but after shutting it off again the problems returned.


    Googling it brings up the inverter pump being the issue for blown am2 fuse and it not starting but the mechanic i brought it to says no, it's the hybrid battery but i checked the codes online and they all come back as being 12v power issues, brake/abs issues, and master solenoid/ECU issues.

    So i am wary of this mechanic as he also said he thought it was the alternator originally (before reading codes) and Prius don't even have an alternator.



    The nearest toyota dealership is in Sioux Falls SD, which is almost 110 miles away from me so i am hoping to get some help here before trying to get it towed all the way there.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Looks like communication codes because of possibly the 12 volt that needs to be load tested checked properly something You need a good 12 volt in these cars It's not like your old Chevy or Toyota with a starter. Don't worry about where the Toyota dealer is first see if you can get the 12 volt and make sure that everything is okay with it generally a decent AGM 12 volt and this size will show about 12.4 to 12.7 volts resting after sitting there for hours. Then your AM2 fuse was blown so what did you do just replace it Is it blown again? If so many times you're inverter pump circuit board is broken it's inside the pump and if you keep doing this it can cause you to create a short at the plug and melt the plug so maybe you need to change the inverter pump If you did change it when you discovered the fuse was blown and you bought the $40 one instead of the $140 unit from Toyota this may be the problem there's a lot of these that fall on their face practically as you take them out of the package I do not know why I've cut a few of them open they look the same they don't look any cheaply made or anything the circuit boards are almost identical so on and so forth I guess it's something that these companies know how to do I don't know it's just a crap shoot maybe. I don't even have that same kind of pump pumping my inverter fluid anymore I reused the completely different pump different style and design of pump at that location. So you got a few things to check and sort out and go from there Good luck.
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Just unplug the inverter pump, replace the fuse and see if your problems go away. Typically, you'll still be able to drive the car at "other than" highway speeds without having temperature issues, especially in Minnesota. Replace pump asap. You can unplug it at the small one wire connector just above and to the left of the underhood fusebox.
     
  4. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    I replaced the 12v with a new one (autozone replaced for free since mine was only 8 months old).

    the old one was indeed dead and wouldn't hold a charge.


    However this didn't fix the issue.
    Car still turns on, red triangle appears, than shuts back off.

    The fuse was only blown once
    It has not blown since.
     
  5. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    I will Do so today.

    My 12v battery was indeed dead and I got it exchanged with a new one but upon starting the car it still shut off after a minute.

    So 12v replacement will likely have removed the C1241 and C1242 codes

    I will disconnect the pump and see what happens.

    If it still won't start and stay running, would you suggest replacing the abs relays?
     
  6. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    Just disconnected the inverter pump and same issue.

    Car shuts off after a minute. Red triangle is on dash.

    So replacing the 12v and disconnecting the pump did not work.
    I already have replied all the fuses including the am2 fuse that was originally blown.

    Aside from replacing a few of the relays, I'm not sure what else it could be.

    If not the 12v or pump, what else could it be?

    Should i replace the hybrid battery like the mechanic suggested even though the codes aren't for it?
     
  7. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Have you looked up what your codes mean?

    Have you rescanned after changing the 12 V battery?

    The codes you posted originally do not indicate any communications issues nor do they condemn the HV battery.
     
  8. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    Yes, all codes are for lack of power from the 12v amd for ABS/relays

    I called Toyota dealership as well and they agreed its not hybrid battery codes but said they can't say for certain, over the phone, there Is no issue with it.


    I already replaced the 12v battery.
    Mine was dead (only 11.2) and the new one Is in but the issue persists
    The C1421 code will likely be gone now if I read codes again though

    I replaced every fuse in the engine fuse box as well
    And have disconnected the inverter water pump still it runs for a minute then shuts back off.

    The only thing I can think of to still try is to replace the ignition and ABS relays in the engine.

    Aside from that what else can I do? If not the pump or 12v? It has a half a tank of gas in it. So it isn't out of gas.

    The hybrid battery is down to 1 bar now so that was why I was going to try to replace it with a new one since maybe it's been drained too much to start the gas engine now.
     
    #8 JoeDog99, Aug 24, 2023
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2023
  9. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    So that's a no, then? You need to reread the codes. Do you still have C1311, C1377, or C1378? If you have any of them, you need to look those codes up in the repair manual and follow the inspection procedure.
     
  10. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    I'll try to re-scan this afternoon but i don't think it will give me anything since the 12v was disonnected and replaced which usually erases codes and it won't stay on long enough anymore to go into ready mode to even drive (the read triangle does appear when turned on though).
     
  11. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Stop trying to get the car READY until you fix it. You just need to press the power button twice to get into IG-ON to read the codes. The codes are not erased forever, and seeing as you get the master warning light (MWL a/k/a Red Triangle) there should be codes.
     
    Brian1954 likes this.
  12. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    Re scanned and got the following codes:

    P3190
    C1241
    C1242
    C1310
    C1311
    C1378

    The only new code is the P3190 code which apparently is for poor engine power. The C1377 code from the first scan went away however.


    As stated previously the 12v battery is brand new and tested to work. All fuses have also been replaced.


    And i already have tried disconnecting the inverter pump which did not fix the issue.


    Any advice on where to go next?
     
    #12 JoeDog99, Aug 24, 2023
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2023
  13. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Poor engine power missing ignition missing things like that will ring that up directly any trouble in the hybrid system can ring that up immediately because the gas ice engine is detuned to work more copesthetically with the electric motor and when anything on the ice engine is not running up to snuff it's not so happy made enough and trading off with the electric part of the system and that can cause some bucking various forms of noises slamming and dinging of the torque plate things like that again there's something to be said for good up to snuff HV battery because when things start to falter and they're kind of old it makes larger changes more noises and things happen.
     
  14. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    Scan codes are:


    C1421 =

    Low Battery Charge Faulty Battery Faulty Charging System Faulty Skid Control ECU (Brake Actuator Assembly)


    C1242 =
    • Faulty Battery
    • Charging System
    • Faulty Master Cylinder Solenoid (Skid Control ECU)


    C3110 =
    • Hybrid Control System
    • Faulty Hybrid Control ECU


    C3111 =

    Faulty Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Main Relay 1 ABS Main Relay 1 harness is open or shorted ABS Main Relay 1 circuit poor electrical connection.


    C1378 =

    Faulty Skid Control ECU Skid Control ECU harness is open or shorted Skid Control ECU circuit poor electrical connection.
     
  15. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    So you suggest replacing the hybrid battery? It was full when the issues started but now is down to almost being all white on the display.
     
  16. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    No I'm not suggesting replacing any of that just taking a good look at it and make sure that everything is nice and clean and connections are good and then run your checks for your other codes like all of a sudden you're showing ABS relays and whatnot undone is this car from a rust state? Some place where corrosion runs rampant or animals run rampant under your car under your hood eating wiring? If none of those things are obvious then you're up for a bunch of troubleshooting and all of this happening all at once is usually not really a thing
     
  17. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    But most of your code seem low voltage related The ABS relay open the other one that goes to the ABS accumulator what have you all that is 12 volt business I do believe.
     
  18. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    The hybrid battery is clean and there is no debri or liquids on or near it. I've already disconnected and reconnected it and tested the orange plug to make sure it's in tight and pushed down.

    I live in Minnesota, but it is currently summer. No animals have been under the hood and the wiring in the engine are chewed on or scratched apart/torn.
     
  19. JoeDog99

    JoeDog99 Junior Member

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    Right, i have read the codes online and most are for 12v and abs/relays/ECU.

    I already replaced the 12v with a tested bran new one from Autozone and have replaced fuses to ensure none were blown affecting power like the AM2 fuse does for ignition.


    Do you think replacing the abs and ignition relay might work? Any ideas you can think of to try?
     
  20. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well you have hybrid control ECU code these cars are known to have corroded connections on that orange plug under the front end of the battery at its battery ECU this can cause all kinds of problems May even cause communication causing some of the brake problems and things like that something is breaking down somewhere. When it starts talking about all these ECUs when you get down to the thumbs down in the manual it's always replaced and then before that it's always unplug look at the pins sometimes there is a test where you're looking for 10 kilo ohms and what have you I don't know what you do You can't back probe a lot of these computer plugs you need an extreme hypodermic needle practically thin set of test leads for your meter or a dummy plug with wire sticking out of it I just gave me an idea I need to go cut some of these things from my old cars that is that'll make it a lot easier to do some of this testing when you have these computers various plugs out and it's asking you to test a given wire I don't have test leads that can fit inside those little tiny holes of most of the plugs so it looks like you'll be unplugging the skid control ECU to have a look at that plug and all those various and sundry ECU the battery ECU same thing or if you know that it's clean then I guess you can skip that.