2008 gen 2 Prius. Car suddnely stopped working. Can start but will not stay running. Codes below

Some guy did just that the other day or was that you He went to AutoZone and got ABS relays that worked in his I think it was a generation too and then it didn't after a while so again there was thinking that the relays the original blue ones are just fine or the gray and blue and whatever the colors they are. So he's back to the same business I guess I can't remember his exact problem but you can take the plastic blue part off of the ABS relay relays and take a look at their points and all that stuff and if they look clean and the little wound coils and all are all turned blue instead of copper colored and what have you they should be a okay I've never replaced any on any of my Toyotas and something like 45 years of driving them so I don't know maybe take them out for a few minutes and then put them back in maybe just that clear something but I don't think so it seems awfully funny that the car won't stay running because an ABS relay is acting weird I guess it's possible I just don't see it personally but you do have codes for an open or a short in the skid control traction control and the brakes and usually when that happens there's been some kind of voltage upset between all the computers and they're not talking to each other Chapman f does much better at all this than I do with this but that's what it seems like happens I imagine you've unplugged the 12 volt for 5 minutes or 4 minutes or whatever it is and try to complete reboot and you have the same thing?

 

Well you're on the right track there was just a post on here just the other day about some guy who took out his ABS relays went to AutoZone bought two there put them in things started to work I just can't remember just in the last 48 hours but like I said I think you're barking up the wrong tree with ABS relays You can look at them under the covers and see if they look fubar If so then maybe so But if so you need to find out why like something is staying on energizing that relay all the time when it shouldn't be something because like Chapman was saying the other day the fuse blows in that case it won't just let the relay sit there and do its thing It will pull enough current to blow the fuse if the correct size fuses in the circuit and so on and so forth.

 

Amazing!

It never ceases to amaze me that when people are faced with a cheaper option or a crazy expensive one, they become myopically focused on the crazy expensive one.

I don't know where you got the descriptions of the codes you posted in post #14, or maybe that is your interpretation of what those codes mean, but they are way off-base to the extent you could be going down several rabbit holes and firing the parts cannon that ends up costing you and still not solving the problem. Faukty this, faulty that, etc. The repair manual says no such thing, at least until you have eliminated all else it could be.

You would benefit in your efforts retrieving the INF codes as most of the codes have them and it will greatly narrow down the focus to more specific areas.

One of the things some of those codes have in common is the ABS relays.

I would check:

• ABS NO. 1 relay
• ABS NO. 2 relay

Harnesses and connectors are also another thing that costs nothing initially, so check them.

 

If you flip your under hood fuse box lid over exactly as it comes off you just flip it over to the side like a book now it shows you your ABS relay one is down and one is up they're both blue I believe look carefully you'll see them and they're clearly marked on the diagram ABS something and the other ones ABS something else and that's the only two relays that are marked like that One is at the bottom of the fuse box down by the headlight and the other ones up at the very top near the red jump port which is a red cover that covers a port where you can put a positive jumper cable It's all clearly marked in the fuse box You would want to unplug the relays You can squeeze them a certain way use the plastic spluges like you take a phone apart with and you can open the relay take a look see what's happening plug it up with the cover off both of them You can see them click and move when you turn the car on etc then of course not having any power could be problematic and then you need the schematic to look over the wiring there goes to the relay and from the relay it is a pain in the rear end but it's nothing you're not going to fix unless you just get frustrated and you don't want to many people have fixed very similar problems many times over and over and over again usually certain things are found like chewed wires plugs left undone myriads of things. Sometimes you have to walk away from it for a while and then regroup.

 

The ABS relays are in the engine room fuse box and should be locatable by referencing the legend on the inside fuse box lid.

Not to be confused with the two ABS MTR relays.

 

No, sorry. I'd just get them from my local Toyota parts counter. That way I know I got the right part.

They are the rectangular green ones at the top and bottom right.

You might want to do some testing beforehand as these are not exactly cheap. There are videos on YouTube that will show you how to test relays.

 

Holy cow.............

 

The steps back in post #9 seem like good ones if they haven't been taken yet.

You posted some interpretations of the trouble codes back in #14, but those do not look to me like they came from the repair manual, and I wouldn't waste too much time on them. When you look codes up in the repair manual, you know you're in the right place because it's telling you the exact detection condition for each code and from one to a dozen pages or so of troubleshooting steps you can use to get down to the issue.

Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

 

I have gotten burned by the rear hatch when I had some mulch spill and prevented it from having a tight closeure... Killed the battery. I wired in an LED strip light into the rear hatch to illuminate the cargo area.....since it was wired in inplace of the old dim one....it lights up like a beacon when the hatch is not closed property. Since then I haven't killed my 12V,.

 

I have gotten burned by the rear hatch when I had some mulch spill and prevented it from having a tight closure... Killed the battery. I wired in an LED strip light into the rear hatch to illuminate the cargo area.....since it was wired in inplace of the old dim one....it lights up like a beacon when the hatch is not closed property. Since then I haven't killed my 12V,. Also. Since the throttle body was clogged.. check the 2 breather hoses that connect to it. Mine were dried out and quite dirty....so I just bought new ones from Toyota and replaced them when I cleaned out the TB. When you have time an INtake manifold cleaning would be a good idea as well.