Help socket stuck in spark plug tube

Jeez, post 59... another one
Post 60... yes, everyone "take this to heart"...always use the correct tool for the job.
In this case, yep, use dedicated/ specific/ made for spark plug sockets

And for FWIW,
Take care (ie gently) removing the spark plug wire caps so you don't tear/ rip a wire, use dielectric grease inside the plug wire boot to spark plug when reinstalling, double check/ensure the gap, a very little dab of antiseize compound (to prevent bonding/electrolysis - alum. to steel) on the plug threads is a good thing IMO, install with a torque wrench. Lastly, if you are a "car nerd" index your spark plugs.

Post 59 OP, from all the posts in this thread, you have guidance.... good luck.

 

The inserts can sometimes get stuck on the spark plugs. I only buy sockets with magnets now. They’re a little more expensive but no need to deal with that possibility.

Usually/Hopefully one has the replacement spark plugs on hand before even removing the first plug. It’s nice to test your socket on one of the new plugs first.

 

If you are buying plugs of the quality brands Toyota recommends, and you are getting them through dependable channels to avoid getting counterfeits, then you should know that those brands deliberately use a plating on the threads that takes care of the seizing issues for you, and those brands explicitly direct you not to add any antiseize. More in this thread.

(Pretty sure there's another thread somewhere with even a screengrab from Denso's literature saying that, but I'm not finding that one at the moment.)

Cheaper plugs, adding antiseize may still be a thing (be sure to reduce your installation torque if you add it). And of course that goes double for counterfeit plugs, though the only safe thing to do with those is throw them out.

Some photos of counterfeits show that the metal looks to be the same color/sheen as the plating the good brands use ... and then show how it rubs off.

 

They work, but especially when installing plugs, you want to securely tape the extension to the socket: if the socket grips the plug really well, the extension can pull out, leaving the socket down there, instead of the socket pulling off the plug.

Then your only recourse is to push the extension back onto the socket, loosen and remove the plug, apply tape to the aforementioned junction and repeat.

Say roughly 25%*. Repair Manual says 15 lb/ft, no mention of anti-seize, so presumably clean/dry threads. With anti-seize, maybe 12 lb/ft.

The @NutzAboutBolts video advocates 20 lb/ft, and he slathers on the anti-seize.

Otherwise a great video though, outlining the myriad parts removal required.

* Addendum: reduction of torque could be as little as 10%, for “silver grade anti-seize”. Maybe applicable for (ubiquitous) Permatex Silver? See attached (Pocket Reference by Thomas J. Glover, 3rd edition, 19th printing).

 

Locking socket extensions are good to have as well.

I made do on my first plug replacement by taping the socket to the extension to keep it from coming off because the foam insert in the socket was tight on the spark plug.

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Always an option to just use the good-quality plugs that clearly direct you not to use anti-seize, and do as they clearly direct, so no need to fudge the torque figure, and call it good.

 

I thought only a deep socket was needed and I used a 1/2" 14mm deep socket its still stuck in there but I managed to change out the rest of the 3 with the thin wall socket. If I only knew! sigh, I've only ever used the T handle 5/8"s one's

It's pretty jammed in there I bent a forked clip remover with heat into a U shape and it's not budging up at all. However still spins with the wrench.

Debating between removing the valve cover or supergluing an extension and letting it cure

Did you fix your codes?

 

A locking extension bar should pop that out fast. And they're super useful for other tasks too.

 

I've tried locking extensions but none of them stuck to the socket.

I finally got it out with the help of my mechanic friend

I got a screwdriver esque clip remover (the ones with the snake fangs) l torch heated/bent it into a U. The socket would still not budge on arm strength. I had to get two thin but thick flat metal filers (1 on each side) and leverage it on the tip of the clip remover handle (while the U is hooked onto the bottom of the socket) and pop it up like a cork from a wine bottle

To future people in the same predicament as my picture,
I would definitely hold off on any super gluing or blasting with WD40. As long as it still spins to either direction, you just have to figure out a way to pop it out. Have more mechanically inclined people try before you do more invasive maneuvers.
Ofc like the other lames have said, just use the correct spark plug sockets with the magnets (!thin wall!) lol
Best of luck