gen2 tech stream air bleed- front wheels don’t let out much fluid

Paging @ChapmanF

 

Is this a new actuator or one out of a used car? The c1345 isn't that the linear actuator I'm stuck at this problem right now too exactly right now as of yesterday. My brakes work fine but they feel like they're regular vacuum brake booster non ABS brakes they work very well but if I stomp on the brake pedal hard enough I am sure the wheels will lock up and I will skid that doesn't bother me the! ABS and VSC lighter on but the actuator's not pumping and making a racket and I believe this is the code I have for the linear offset valve or whatever it's called I've gone through that procedure done the relearn done the vacating of all the memory and then when the linear valve is supposed to be learning or doing whatever with the steering wheel straight ahead I have the fast flashing of the respective to lights but then at the very end they don't flash to let me know that the learning is confirmed and that's where we are just loops around and around but the brakes seem to be bled no air etc pedal feels very reasonable I see regenerative braking working. On the bleeding you did have the two front or the two break relays out the top and bottom blue ones and then you bleed the brakes front left first assistant needs to be sitting in the car just like you'd bleed your old Chevrolet pump up the brake pedal 5 10 times hold it down somebody on the ground cracks the fitting either air whooshes or fluid squirts you close the fitting person in the car pumps up 10 15 times again holding down repeat the process till you have streams of fluid coming out when you crack the fitting no air If you're not skilled at doing this you put a hose on the fitting with a little bit of brake fluid in a glass or a Smucker's jar and then when you release the fluid if it's fluid it will go into the Smucker's jar with no bubbles If it's air you'll hear the air farting noises whatever and you'll see the bubbles in the fluid You want to be seeing no bubbles in the fluid when you crack the fitting when you're done at the left you do the right same way this is the front only. Then you next step will be the actuator the pumping of the brake pedal and 30 times with the red line running and then I guess you go and do the backs and the backs your person just pushes on the brake you don't really need the pump and you crack the fitting slowly because fluid is just going to come out and you're going to hear the pump run close it and let your assistant pump the brake once or twice three times again you crack the fitting and you'll just see the fluid squirting straight out with no air in it so on and so forth. Now do the driver side rear and that's that I think the lights will stay on if the linear valve does not get reset which is where I'm at right now I don't think the lights are on because my used actuator is actually bad it's probably just a little bit better condition than what I had but enough to keep the lights off if I can get the linear valve to do its thing I saw the computer for the linear valve in my other parts car but I hate to think that the computers just bad from changing the actuator.

 

1. Left front - a few drops or a ton of fluid?

2. Did you change the pump and master cylinder?

3. New parts?

4. Are you using the Techstream utility required when changing a brake booster system or simply bleeding with the “Invalid Mode”?

 

Yes you need to get the front bled just like you do a regular car with the ABS relays out starting at the front left you get that if you want to put a tube on the fitting and run it into a Smucker's jar with some fluid that's not aerated in it and then go that route do that mine never break the front bleed very much I only have to pump up twice on each side of the front and I'm running clear fluid. On the linear valve offset try it with the brake pedal up the parking brake pedal not depressed there seems to be an issue somewhere with this try it with the brake pedal up the emergency brake up and see if that works.

 

I have not personally done this process on a Gen 2, but your description makes it sound pretty similar to the Gen 3 process, which I have done.

The rears are bled using the OPS NORMAL system involving the electric brake pump and accumulator, so the rear lines will happily gush a stream of fluid at you for as long as you have the bleeder open (right up until it slurps in air from the empty reservoir if you're not careful, and you get to start all over again).

The front brakes have two separate hydraulic circuits, one for fail-safe when there is no power available, and the OPS NORMAL circuit working from the pump like the rears. The circuits are separate and you need all the air out of both, which is why the procedure sends you to the fronts twice. (This is exactly what every single person with a "hey, I just bled my front brakes this-a-way instead" story is always missing.)

When you're doing the pump-powered normal circuit, yes, the fluid will gush, in fact it will really gush—it's under the same pressure and doesn't even have the resistance of the longer lines to the rears. It may flow so fast you can drain the reservoir and slurp air if you lose focus for a moment.

During the part of the process where you're doing the fail-safe circuit, that won't gush. That part works like an old-fashioned brake system, where you squirt a bit of fluid out with each stroke of the brake pedal.

Yes, that absolutely happens when bleeding with pedal strokes. If you don't close the bleed valve for the upstroke, you may never get anywhere.

That makes that part faster to do with a helper, one of you doing the pedal strokes, the other opening and closing the bleeder. You have to communicate and stay in sync. Helper presses on the pedal, then you open the bleeder. Some fluid comes out, helper feels pedal go down. Close the bleeder. Only then does the helper let the pedal back up. Repeat until clear of air.

You can do it alone, with something like an extendable pedal pusher. Set the tool so it's pushing the pedal. Scurry over to the bleeder and open it and let the little spurt of fluid out. Close the bleeder again and scurry back to the pedal pusher and release it. Then set it and scurry again. Repeat until clear of air.

Works, but tedious as heck.

Yeah, that's the "need to learn linear solenoid offset" code. Look in the Techstream utilities, there's one that does that. Then you're in business.