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Prius 2011 P148F and B1503

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by sharinganuser, Oct 12, 2023.

  1. sharinganuser

    sharinganuser Junior Member

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    Ran the BlueDriver ODB2 on my wife's Prius 2011, and it returned P148F "Status: CURRENT/HISTORY Engine Coolant Pump Over Revolution" and B1503 "Status: CURRENT/HISTORY Exhaust Heat Management Warning Detected". BlueDriver common fix for P148F is to replace the water pump. I've replaced the water pump with genuine Toyota part and the error is still present.

    Is there anything else I can check? Browsed through the forum for this code, my understanding is that the causes are head gasket or water pump connector issue (in addition to the water pump replacement). Checked the oil and it is not milky white and does not have a coolant smell. Is it possible the water pump connector? There was an issue before with the water pump connector discuss on P261C after egr, intake manifold, throttle body cleaning | PriusChat. I called Toyota parts for the water pump connector, and they said that they don't sell it. The service department will fix it if that is the cause. Per Toyota service department, the checkup/diagnostic is $235, plus the labor and part of fixing the unknown issue.

    Mileage: 180K+
    Cleaned EGR, intake manifold, throttle body late 2021
    Recently replaced water pump
    Coolant "spills" around the overfill tank cap. We notice the coolant loss around the cap during long uphill drive and sometime during medium (30miles) or long drive.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Does the water pump plug look broken cracked melted otherwise destroy eat up by chemical cleaners etc? Like the common things people break the tab off trying to undo it without knowledge of how to do so believe it or not and happens to millions of them doesn't make a bad connection put a little goop on the plastic push it together and let it dry to get it apart you will have to give it a very good snatch on the plastic only not the wires goop rolls up and throws away and can be regooped if need be. Usually when I install one of these pumps I don't bolt it up to the car but plug it up and stand it up power up the car call up the water pump with tech or just turn on the car and usually the water pump will come on for a second You can see it's going to spin things look okay turn the car back off bolt up the pump add cool slowly like you're supposed to off you go In these cars you're not going to see coffee in your oil That's not how this works in this system matter of fact that's extremely rare unless you can break a coolant jacket enough to wear its spewing in water at a pretty good rate I've not seen it personally I haven't Chevrolets and straight sixes and other vehicles forklifts and the like but not in a 2Z Toyota engine in a Prius or a Corolla.
     
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  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Does the water pump plug look broken cracked melted otherwise destroy eat up by chemical cleaners etc? Like the common things people break the tab off trying to undo it without knowledge of how to do so believe it or not and happens to millions of them doesn't make a bad connection put a little goop on the plastic push it together and let it dry to get it apart you will have to give it a very good snatch on the plastic only not the wires goop rolls up and throws away and can be regooped if need be. Usually when I install one of these pumps I don't bolt it up to the car but plug it up and stand it up power up the car call up the water pump with tech or just turn on the car and usually the water pump will come on for a second You can see it's going to spin things look okay turn the car back off bolt up the pump add cool slowly like you're supposed to off you go In these cars you're not going to see coffee in your oil That's not how this works in this system matter of fact that's extremely rare unless you can break a coolant jacket enough to wear its spewing in water at a pretty good rate I've not seen it personally I haven't Chevrolets and straight sixes and other vehicles forklifts and the like but not in a 2Z Toyota engine in a Prius or a Corolla.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    No you go cut the water pump connector the plug That's the car side out of a car sitting in like a junkyard You cut the plug off with two or three inches of wire sticking off the plug squeeze your cutters put it in your pocket take it with you they don't want to sell it to you stuff like that they don't care anything about It's just you have to go over there and do the cutting with your channel lock side gutters. Usually the pump over rev is because with the small head gasket leaking it's heating up pretty good and the pump is working itself to death trying to move the water fast enough to cool it It can't so it's killing itself and the computer is telling you it's over revving That's what it sounds like to me I've replaced a couple of these and the two generation 3s I've had the unfortunate luck to own.
     
  5. sharinganuser

    sharinganuser Junior Member

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    Took pictures (see below). I did not see any crack, melted, or broken. The red electrical tape is due to the last fix because one of the wires was loose. I can check again if that connection is still good. Not sure if I understand correctly, should I drain the coolant, remove the water pump, and test if the pump is working if I turn on the Prius?
    IMG_2915.JPG IMG_2916.JPG
     
  6. sharinganuser

    sharinganuser Junior Member

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    I believe it is the D13-4(SWP) again that it became "loose" over time. It was my fault that I did not fix it properly last time by not crimping it. Now I took out the pin, crimp it, and put it back. Watched a video on how to do it. Ran the diagnostic twice and there are no codes including the B1503, and B2784 Toyota Code - Antenna Coil Open / Short. I did not expect the fix would address all 3 codes. Thanks Tombukt2:D
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    SWP is the signal from the ECM to the pump, telling the pump how fast to spin. The pullup for that signal is in the pump itself, so if that circuit goes open, the pump thinks it's being commanded to run flat out.

    The P148F is the ECM saying "wait a sec, pump is running faster than I said to." So no mystery there.

    B1503 is an unexpected temperature reading in the coolant coming back from the EHRS. I suppose that could be a consequence of the pump running flat out when it doesn't need to, though I wouldn't have guessed that from the way the detection condition is written. That makes it sound like the code is mostly for less-subtle things, like a wiring problem to that temperature sensor.

    As for the connection to B2784, I got nuthin'. Smile and don't think about it too hard.
     
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  8. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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