2007 Inverter cooling pump

My best advice is to actually check the codes being provided by the car.

Even with a non-functioning ICWP, the car should be able to drive normally until the inverter gets hot and puts you in limp mode. Sometimes people have driven for months without even knowing the pump was bad. I've driven 30+ miles on purpose (<45mph) to move a car to my location from across town without a hiccup. Your warning lights and symptoms seem more like a P0AA6.

 

You should be able to drive almost year round in Fresno with an inverter pump not working You will not fry the inverter by the pump not working that's not how this works. And nice temperatures like Fresno California should not be an issue I mean seriously I drove around for 4 months with a water pump not working The inverter water pump the one we're talking about here. Pretty uneventful actually even going down the highway that flow through air coming through the front of the car must have kept things cool enough because I never had any throttling back this is running like 68 to 72 miles an hour down the interstate so on and so forth in a car that I still have today with a non-inverter pump type pump in other words not the factory pump is there now and it works great never had a problem since changing it out and I couldn't ask for better something that I don't worry about at all anymore. But in that type of temperature shouldn't be a huge issue so whatever is going on with your car is not only the inverter water pump brakes going out for the inverter water pump no sir No not at all The inverter water pump and overheating of the water running through the inverter will throttle back the inverter charging the battery the big battery. That's about it so all your other troubles will have codes accordingly Good luck.

 

Read the codes and find out why you're drivability is not there It's not just the inverter pump and the pump fuse you're looking to check is the AM2 fuse It's right in the fuse box flip over the lid and look in the upper middle to right side of the lid and you'll see AM too mirror that to what you're looking at in the box and it's probably a blue 15 amp fuse AM2 if it's blown you need to unplug the pump temporarily long set of needle nose pliers and restore the AM2 fuse so it doesn't blow the fuse again when you get time round up a pump when you go to install it just remove the three gold screws from the pump and the slide clamps off the hoses put a cork in each hose and lift the pump off the gold bracket leave the gold bracket in the car on the new pump unscrew the same gold or silver screws set the bracket to the side set the new pump on the bracket in your car and saving you a few steps The bracket doesn't go bad it's just a piece of metal

 

Well let me ask you this what lights do you have on your dash what's been there when you've been driving for the last however long and what's new like my 09 has a PO420 code for the catalytic converter being below threshold It's been there for years so the check engine lights always on but my ABS traction control red triangle red car in the middle display and all that no sir The only thing you should have with a bad inverter pump right at the moment will be a code should be and you should have in the center display the little green car is now red but if you have ABS VSC the! So on and so forth you have codes You need a capable scan tool

 

Nope, you've got something else going on. Read the codes to find out what it is you got going on.

Hopefully the new reader will be on this list:

Gen2 OBD2 app review

 

Try the Car Scanner app and also the Dr.Prius app to check for trouble codes.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Some apps like Torque, Dr Prius, and Car Scanner are handy but are very limited. They can do a few things and don't cost much.

My experience is that they can only "talk" to a few of the 14-16 systems on a Gen2 Prius, and sometimes couldn't get all codes that were in those systems. They cannot retrieve any INF sub codes. Some faults set an additional 3 digit sub code that has more details about the problem. You would find INF in "freezeframe" data (a snapshot of what the ecu saw when it set the code). Those apps cannot retrieve freezeframe either.

Many here on the forums have those apps in addition to a more capable scantool such as the Autel AP200 (or Toyota Techstream).

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Read the review thread that's linked in post 9. All of the more capable scantools are "proprietary".

You buy the Autel device, then install the Autel app. They only work with each other. If you want to use an additional app (such as Dr Prius) you would need an additional (different) OBD device - such as panglong or BAFX Products.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

What non oem 12v pump did you install in place of it?

 

You want to get a good load test on your battery just seeing voltage really is not a thing You can have 12 volts with nothing backing it up No amp hours behind it but it'll peg your meter at 12.3 or 12.1 bridge the negative and positive terminals together and it'll drop to zero immediately and won't even make a spark remove the jumper or the wrench off the battery terminals. And then the second the voltage will be back up to 12 something but as you see it has nothing behind that 12 something so then at this point yes a new battery will make all the difference in the world You try to bridge those terminals on your new battery with a piece of wire or something and the wire will heat up so fast it'll burn your hand leave a mark on it Yes even the little Toyota battery in the back of the Prius The new one of those will melt a thin gauge wire if you're not careful and that's what you're looking for.

 

If you look at your generation too in between the stroke simulator and the accumulator and pump of the brake system directly behind the inverter there is a 14.1 volt water pump it looks like a mini spa pump I believe it takes a 3/4 a 5/8 hose just the same size hoses that are already down there at your inverter pump I took that pump wired it up directly to the plug down there at the inverter It takes a similar plug You have to cut another plug from somewhere else off another car to make it a complete plug and unplug deal I didn't care about that so mine is just wired. But I use the pump that's in between those two pieces If you look behind your inverter you can see the pump I'm talking about It's bracket is attached right beside the accumulator and pump for the brakes You can't miss it it's black I took that pump and put it down where the inverter pump goes I remove the old inverter pump but this pump down there connect the hoses twist it to where it's comfortable and then I literally took some great stuff foam and I built a little space of the foam up from the bracket that the pump goes on and let the pump sit there in the foam and dry when I change the pump I just ripped the foam up change the pump if ever put some more foam there you can barely see it and it will not move and it works great It's been in there about a year now and it's something I don't even think about it just works. And I think you could do the same thing with a generation 3 inverter pump it's mounted right below into the side of the headlight under the inverter It looks just like the pump in the generation too but it looks like they change the circuit board so you need to cut one out and get the plug and then wire it to the generation 2 there may be an extra wire don't worry about it just don't use it but the generation 3 pumps seem to fair a little better than the generation twos It seems to be that way so far. At the time I used the pump behind the inverter I hadn't thought about the generation 3 and what it's inverter pump might look like I saw one at the junkyard the other day with the inverter out of the car and the pump sitting there and noticed the design changes.

 

Yes that's normal but when you start the car you do see the check engine light come on during starting and then it goes off right? Check it again this is perfectly normal for the CM monitor display when it is starting to go bad The car is driveable the mileage is still being added to your mileage screen you just can't see it when you do get the car to boot back up and you know how many miles you've been look at the screen they should be on your total mileage or whatever you look at I've been through this with two cars usually when I'm working on this problem I have the panel that has the power button off of the car on the back seat and what you can do is unplug the big white plug that's up on top closest to the CM monitor and the car unplugged that cable turn the car off turn the car back on and while the car is booting up plug up that white cable in the display will generally come back on you'll see your mileage is there it's not reset and so on and so forth when you do the ground thing in the trunk if you're not careful and you lift the ground off for too long you'll zero out the display so that's why I usually keep the power button panel off stick the power button in the square hole in the plastic where it would normally be sitting if it were mounted in the panel and it'll just sit there your parking button in the vent stay in place this way here I can undo the CM monitor plug the big white plug closest to the display even while I'm driving the car if I want but there's never any reason to do that wants to display is on it does not go out while driving It goes out when you shut the car off for a long enough period of time that the capacitors drain or they do something or not do something is the case may be then you open the door and if you notice when you open the door you have no door open display a little red icon and I guarantee you you will have no display so that's exactly what's happening now you will either order the appropriate display for the model car you have from Texas hybrids give them your mileage and VIN number and they'll send you a display pre-programmed with your total mileage of your car on it and it'll be ready to work I take that new display and I take the speaker off the back of it and now when I install it I have no seat belt warning beeper I have no backup beeper all the beeps don't work so you have to be really aware of what your car is doing like if you're car is not working right and you get the five beeps at startup now you won't be getting those beeps so if you don't know your car very well and all this and that you may want to leave the speaker intact It can help some people diagnose the car I want the quiet the diagnosis is not a problem for me.