Vehicle has fried multiple water pumps, need assistance.

Can't help you with the water pump but I'm fairly certain that the water pump had little to do with illuminating the "change owner" lights.
Have you verified that the EGR is now unclogged?

 

So then where are these three water pumps coming from are you just swapping around water pumps you have from the engines in the cars and leftovers or are you ordering the scraped away no name on them online $100 water pumps if you will? To deal with ones that you have you know or doing something but not correctly If you just open the water pump there's no schematic needed just undo the gold colored 10 mm 8 mm bolts pull the water pump apart nothing's going to fall out You see the impeller it's like a mag drive pump for a pond or a washing machine drain pump pull the impeller out if it's hard use a pair of needle nose pliers now you see why it's hard to pull out You see all the plastic cracking around the impeller cover the magnet end of it that's your problem That's sticking in the boar and it won't allow the pump to turn and it's driving the computer crazy and I don't know what you're seeing for RPMs or what have you A guy here on this list recently was able to purchase just the impeller for that pump on Amazon for $30 It is listed here somewhere some nice person will come along and post the link because they do that sort of thing You order that impeller when you see the new one that you get you'll notice there's no cracks and when you stick it in the boar that it goes in and you spin it with your hand now it spins freely now put the water pump back together as long as you see no other cracks no funny business nothing's turned blue on the aluminum cover what have you put it back together plug it in and don't bolt it to the thermostat now sit in the car turn on the car get out and look at the water pump it'll be starting to turn and if you could have seen the old one under these conditions you'd see the old one turning stopping turning stopping turning stopping like it's chunking out against something It was now it's not it spins freely at 850 RPM all the way up to 3000 or whatever it is If you have TIS or the Toyota software you can make the water pump speed up and slow down from the laptop running the software verifying that the pump is working it's not chunking out working intermittently half a turn half a turn half a turn etc. So now bolted up to the car and everything else being equal you should be good to go on the cooling system part You know you have to fill the cooling system a certain way squeeze all the hoses like you're milking a cow etc all that I'm sure you know all of this. And then you should be done. And good luck try and keep the part separate so you don't keep repeating and reusing funny business if you're going to save the other pumps go ahead and take them apart pull the impellers out drop the screws in the things in the hole where the impeller goes and set it on a shelf or whatever since you can get the impeller for 30 ..

 

You did not say anything yet about the thermostat and radiator. Was the thermostat replaced? Radiator maybe plugged with stop-leak.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Take a look here.

As you see, the duty cycle of the pulse train the ECM sends to the pump on WPO is what requests the pump speed. Pump running flat out until the magic smoke escapes would be consistent with WPO pegged high. Because the pullup for WPO is in the pump, that would also be consistent with an open circuit anywhere on WPO back to the ECM.

 

That makes sense, but what does WPO stand for?

Also do you think this engine might have a component that's been switched onto a couple replacement engines that's making it run hot? I mean the EGR can do that, but sounds like that was cleaned. But what else makes a Gen3 engine run hot? I ask because this might give greater insight into the chronic headgasket failure issue on Gen3.

 

I don't make up Toyota's circuit mnemonics, but considering they use WPO for the signal the ECM sends out to the water pump, and WPI for the water pump tachometer signal that comes in, I think I have an idea.

 

So WPO is Water Pump Operation signal and WPI is Water Pump Information signal? Or at least that's what I'm going to pretend because I don't really care anymore. But I very much appreciate you helping me understand it...

 

My guesses would have been Output and Input, but that's the thing with mnemonics; as long as you can attach them to some words that help you remember what the circuits are there for, they've done their job.

 

I've learned too much about the problems Toyota created for itself when it went from a mechanical to electric engine water pump... Perhaps the only redeeming value is that it's easier to replace.

 

Where did the water pump come from?

 

Gen 3 getting hot yeah maybe by the water pump not moving water but just in general these things don't really get super hot until it's 105° out and all of those great conditions that you need to have to me the Prius the Gen 3 seems to run kind of cool except when temperature outside is extreme and when evening time comes even in those extreme days the temperature in the Prius drops drastically I mean operating temperature water temp whatever. Or maybe thermostats are calibrated differently or something but my two gen three's don't seem to be very hot natured now my generation twos are just like a Corolla or a Yaris with a radiator which all of them have radiators but I mean they're very much normal ice only like coolings systems. You stop on a hot day and whip up the hood on the gen2 and hest and smell comes wafting up like a regular car.

 

Yeah two suspects:

residual stop-leak product

counterfeit water pump

 

Thanks OP for following up with the resolution!

 

What was it clogged w

 

Did this car have the stop leak installed???
If so, you should check the heator core also.

 

I have never seen an egr system make an engine run hot. Not even when completely clogged or blocked on purpose.

Clogged radiator, yes. Stop leak or run with straight water too long. With the right coolant those radiators never go bad other than mechanical damage which is rare since the condenser takes the first hit. Coolant change is easier than an oil change or spark plugs. Since it is really coolant dilution, frequent “changes” are useful.

 

Second sentence in this article?

https://www.perkins.com/en_GB/products/emissions-technology/emissions-technology/exhaust-gas-recirculation.html#:~:text=Meeting%20the%20various%20global%20emissions,NOx%20emitted%20by%20the%20engine.