Oil Catch Can Update, 2013 w/ 199K

P0301 or P030x is something that we should never have. If we have one, we must pin point what is the cause. It could be coil pack, spark plugs, head gasket, or fuel pressure/lines. Leaving P030x too long will toast the catalytic converter, dilute the engine oil or contaminate the crankcase with water, and ruin the internal of the engines. I think do simplest easiest thing first.
1. check if the EGR opening are without restrictions
2. clean the elbow pipe
3. clean the intake manifolds
4. clean the EGR valve and the EGR cooler when we have enough time to fight it.

I cannot do Oil catch can because it cause MOT test failured. TÜV test in Germany is stupid strick. We cannot change anything, not even wheel without paper work.

I always check the level of the coolant every month. In 8 years, they are exactly at the same level. Not so much evaporations like older style coolant reservoir.

 

If I had P03XX I'd start with leak-down test and/or borescope inspection, proceed depending on that. Then deal with the (likely neglected) EGR, but the head gasket failure would be my first suspect, and cleaning the EGR is not going reverse that.

 

I am wondering for a long time if AKI87 E10 in North America contribute on higher head gasket failure rate than European with AKI89 E5 fuel.
Additionally, most E5 in Europe is often actually 0 to 2% and E10 is often max 6% ethanol. Lean burn causes more detonation and hotter burn.

I coincidentally noticed that my Altima 02 and Sienna 04 have been starting pinging under light load since 2008 when E10 was introduced.

 

Duplicated

 

ALL the work should be easier for EVERY car! But it's not!
If it's too easy, dealer and non dealers would not be able to make any money off labor.

 

He is very entertaining and clear. He cut the side bracket on the EGR cooler. I think it is bold and smart move. That cooler will stay there just fine without it.

 

A lot just leave off the nut and stud, does the same but leaves cooler pristine.

 

I did this - couldn't get the back stud and nut in. Had me stumped for hours when I was taking it apart. And the thing is very solidly held in place without it (using the front stud plus the bolt that screws into the valve cover, plus the solid flanged connections on either side).

 

I’m not quite understanding that, but anyway, what I found, when pulling out the cooler, with lower nut and stud removed, rear nuts removed buy rear studs still in place:

It came forward a bit but got stuck due to aluminum tube and bracket above. Loosening that bracket and lifting a bit, was then able to pull cooler out.

 

I think i should drain the radiator out before doing this job. Or do it at the same time. I know that the throttle body can be removed without removing the coolant lines. At least for cleaning thr intake and L pipe from the EGR.

I just do not have time to clean the cooler or just to peak and check the air flow.

 

I drained 2 liters from radiator before disconnecting coolant hoses; everything was virtually dry, the coolant level dropped enough. Then poured it back into reservoir after, left bleed screw open while pouring it back, and squeezed hoses.

 

Unless the car overheats the concern should probably be coolant loss, not coolant flow. Especially since most head gasket failures are between 1 and 2. If the codes went away after the EGR system cleaning then maybe you're fine, just keep a very close eye on the coolant level. If at any time you had or have coolant loss or cold start misfires then I'd be worried.

 

Just got a used intake manifolds from CT200H 2012 with revised part number. It had 40k miles and the EGR pipe and channel on the intake are not clogged at all. Just oily and thin carbon. No deposit on the opening. I am not sure why I cannot upload any picture