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Piston Soak as Preventative Maintenence

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Nave, Dec 6, 2023.

  1. Nave

    Nave New Member

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    Hello,

    I just got a 2013 Prius with 120,000 miles on it. It runs great, ~48 mpg. There is a slightly rough idle but no knocking. This weekend I am going to clean the EGR cooler and Intake Manifold as well as install a Oil Catch, but I'm also wondering if it would be a good time to soak the pistons. After driving 5000 miles since purchase from the dealership I have lost no oil so to speak, but I'm planning on changing it out anyway for a fresh start and to begin monitoring.

    Anyways, considering all the HG problems people get in the future I am wondering if I should do the B12 soak as a preventative precaution. I havent seen anyone do this until around 200k and already loosing oil. I guess at the very least I could put a scope down there and see if its got deposits. Any thoughts if this is a good or bad idea?

    Thanks!
     
  2. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    I was advised that a piston soak is a last resort because many of the recipes use aggressive chemicals that can shorten the lifespan of the rings and seals. Maybe someone would argue against that on here, but that was the advice I got to make me reluctant to do it too soon.

    Instead, clean your EGR system often, get an oil catch can, replace coolant often... All these have been shown to hold off the usual Gen3 engine problems for a while. But finding a Gen4 engine to swap it out with and you never have to worry about it anymore is the best fix.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Especially first time around, you might want to break that up. Maybe do the intake manifold and Oil Catch Can one weekend, and the EGR cooler (and valve) another. The latter will need wipers/cowl removed. I'd even just leave the OCC to a third weekend: appreciate it might be opportune to do with the intake manifold off, but OCC install can be a real time sinkhole...

    One thing you can do ahead of time is remove the nut from the stud at the lower bracket on the EGR cooler. It can be done any time, without removing anything else for access, and can be left off. You might also want to remove the stud* at that location, same time. You'll need an E8 (Torx) socket for that, and a lot of patience: it's steel in an aluminum head, and very tough to back out, really buried too.

    See first two links in my signature. Viewing on a phone, turn it landscape to see signature.

    * With the stud off, it's possible to pull out the EGR cooler without removing the two rearmost studs. You do need to loosen a bracket hold-down bolt and shift an aluminum tube (gas tank vapour return?) passing above the EGR components; the cooler will otherwise bump into that tube and bracket on the way out.
     
    #3 Mendel Leisk, Dec 6, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2023
    Paul E. Highway likes this.
  4. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Why is that?

    Isn't it as simple as cutting a vent tube and connecting both ends to the OCC?
     
  5. Nave

    Nave New Member

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    Ah right B12 is mostly acetone, which is bad for plastics and rubber. Seafoam is isopropanol; also bad. What about a penetration oil? Kreen is debatably a waste. My thought now is just dope the oil or gas before a change, preventively.
    [/QUOTE]

    Do you recommend using the g4 EGR cooler? Also what is it that people say they won't pass emissions test, and some leak coolant? Are these problems specific to the g4 engine, or are they caused by something else?

    On it.
     
  6. Nave

    Nave New Member

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    For cleaning the EGR cooler I'm going to spray with a pressured hose, and let it soak in 91% Isopropyl overnight.
    Do you know the torque used to tighten these pieces that connect the EGR, or does it not really matter? ( at 22:55)

    Manifold cleaning looks straight forward, but I'm also looking into the Toyota redesigned intake manifolds (17120-37052). I mean why not if they say it fixes the shake which mine seems to have if it sits a couple days.

    I think I can get it all done in a weekend, catch can included. I'm really just trying to beat the cold weather. I have been studying many videos and resources - and yours are of the best - thanks!
     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Not for me. Just like real estate: location, location, location. I ended up fashioning a bracket, mounted atop lower front cross beam. Then I decided two cans is better, made another bracket. Then I slotted all the holes to facilitate temoval. Then I tried revising everything from 3/8” ID hose, to 1/2”. Then I went back to 3/8”. This went on for some time.
     
    bdc101 and PriusCamper like this.
  8. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Most all of my problems in life would be solved if the entire notion of individual or corporate ownership of real estate wasn't a thing... People who think their property rights are more important than the survival of the planet are gonna get us all killed if they keep up with all their greedy insanity!
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    For me multiple hour long soaks in Oxi-Clean Versatile Stain Remover, a powdered laundry additive, mixed in concentrated solution with hot tap water, got it clean. More detail in second link in my signature.
    For any and all torque values see Repair Manual excerpts attached to first link in my signature (on a phone turn it landscape to see signature).
    Doubt it’ll help, won’t be cheap, just clean what you’ve got.
    Don’t rush this; do one bit at a time, keep everything you pull off organized. Go through the top two links in my signature.
     
  10. MikeDee

    MikeDee Senior Member

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    Don't they make engine oil with a higher percentage of detergent that can be used in lieu of the piston soak routine (e.g., Valvoline High Milage full synthetic).
     
    #10 MikeDee, Dec 7, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2023
  11. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    I'd ask the "$1500 in a day" Gen4 mobile installer based out of Oklahoma those questions: https://www.instagram.com/skimmilkhybrid/
     
  12. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Use oven cleaner first. Spray it in both ends. It will foam. Give it 2-3 minutes to settle
    in then spray again. Do this 3 or 4 times and let it sit for about 30 minutes.
    Then use the pressure washer to blast it out. The pressure washer will clear it out, but
    the oven cleaner will clean the soot away. You can be done in less than an hour.

    Use gunk on the rest of it. Do NOT use the oven cleaner on the aluminum parts, it might
    damage it. And you can use carb/brake cleaner on the egr valve.
    You can also use the Gunk(flamable version) on the intake manifold.
    If you get a .22 bore brush (for a gun) you can put it in a drive and put gunk on it and use it
    to clear out the 4 passages for the egr flow. Only take a few second for each one!

    If this is your first time, it will probably take most of the day for everything, Just make sure you
    get all the gaskets first! :)

    Also get some MAF/MAP sensor cleaner and clean them while you have everything apart.

    Some say sea foam works for the piston rings. You can put about 4 ounces in the oil about 300
    miles before you change the oil. It might help keep them from getting gummed up. Don't think
    it will hurt to do it and it doesn't cost much for a can that you can use for 4-5 oil changes.

     
  13. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    How much oil is it consuming? If it isn't guzzling much, what would be the point of a piston soak routine?
    The first steps should be to clean out the manifold passages, and check whether the EGR cooler is restricted the easy way, via the OBD port.
     
    #13 CR94, Dec 10, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2023