Torque wrench recommendation

I actually have two torque wrenches. One the beam type and one the click type. The first one I got was the beam type and it seems to work fine. I then got the click type as a gift one year.

So now I only use the beam type to remove nuts which require a bit of force, such as lug nuts. I then only use the click type to tighten things where a precise amount of torque is required. For example, the lug nuts require 76 lb-ft. I also tighten in three steps with the torque wrench. By only using a torque wrench to tighten I'm thinking it should help it to remain accurate, since then you're not using it beyond the range to break frozen nuts loose.

In my opinion the beam type seems fine, it is just that you can't be as precise because you must look at the scale for the amount of deflection. The click type of course clicks when you reach the value you set. As far as accuracy, I'm not really sure there is much of a difference between the two. With the click type you must remember to store it at a low setting though to retain the accuracy, so that is one step that you don't have to worry about with the beam type. With the beam type I have occasionally had to pull it in one direction to get it rezeroed. Also, it is possible to have torque wrenches recalibrated to be sure they are still accurate. I think you need to get a high quality torque wrench too.

There are various torque wrenches for different ranges of torque too. They have ones in inch-lbs for those items which must be precise but don't require the major torque of a lug nut.

 

Go down to your friendly Home Depot and pick up one of their "Husky" brand click wrenches. Their prices are good and so far I haven't had any problems with their tools.

If you buy a click type wrench, be sure to always set it back to "zero" at the end of the day, ie. don't leave it permanently set to 60 ft-lbs or something. This will mess up the calibration (don't ask me how I know.)

If you've got the ca$h, you could also flag down the Snap-On truck the next time it drives by your house. Their tools are top quality and they will calibrate their wrenches for free.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(lenjack @ Dec 20 2006, 10:20 PM) [snapback]364908[/snapback]</div>

You may need more than one... I have a 1/2" that starts at 40 ft/lbs and goes on up to 250 or so that I've used for years on tasks like torquing lug bolts in addition to the odd Mustang rebuild project etc. If you think you are going to be doing stuff like changing spark plugs that requires lower settings, e.g. installing the BT plate takes 24 ft/lbs (I think), then you probably a 3/8" that starts lower (which I am scoping out now). The Craftsman click type that I have has held up well for 20 years or so. The beam type seems like it would be more hassle to read.

 

I would never use a torque wrench to loosen fasteners like one of the posters mentioned. You are very likely to exceed its maximum capacity and permanently damage it. Ratchets and breaker bars are for loosening, torque wrenches are only to be used for precise tightening.

I have three different types of torque wrenches: a beam type, a click type, and a Snap-On TECH2FR100 digital readout model that vibrates and beeps, and also displays the maximum torque that you reached. The Snap-On is my favorite. It maxes out at 100 foot-pounds (it also reads out in inch-pounds or newton-meters), which is plenty for working around the Prius, though larger models are available with higher capacities.

I particularly love not having to remember to reset it after each use like you do with the click type, and not having to be able to maneuver my head around in tight places to get a good reading off the pointer as you do with the beam type. They are readily available on ebay for about $200 or less, though the list price is over $300.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(lee @ Dec 21 2006, 04:38 PM) [snapback]365254[/snapback]</div>

Please read the post completely before commenting.

I said, "So now I only use the beam type to remove nuts which require a bit of force, such as lug nuts. I then only use the click type to tighten things where a precise amount of torque is required. For example, the lug nuts require 76 lb-ft. I also tighten in three steps with the torque wrench. By only using a torque wrench to tighten I'm thinking it should help it to remain accurate, since then you're not using it beyond the range to break frozen nuts loose."

That means that the torque wrench I'm using for precise usage is my click type wrench. The beam type wrench is now used for loosening because I received the click type wrench as a gift. So now I don't need a breaker bar. Also, I said that it is possible to damage the accuracy of the wrench by loosening items, I don't know that it is "very likely to exceed its maximum capacity and permanently damage it." I can have it checked and recalibrated though if I ever want to start using again as a torque wrench for tightening.

 

Hello, Aircraft Mech here....for the almost the last 30 years.

I have three Torque Wrenches in my box....all Snap-On "click" type and calibrated every year with certs (as I am required to show proof of calibration if asked by the FAA). A 0-40 in-lb, a 50-1000 in-lb, and a 50-250 FT-lb model. I have a fairly extensive set of tools and I looked at the newest torque wrenches offered by Snap-on (Digital, Vibrating....ect) when they came out. Didn't think that all the bells and whistles offered on them were worth the extra cost.

I agree with many of the comments here in regards to loosening fasteners....you should NEVER use a torque wrench to do this. You can do it, but you run the risk of screwing up the calibration. It is not that you are going in reverse direction ....it is that you are going PAST the torque value set in order to loosen the fastener.

All that being said.....the prius isn't meant to fly! As long as the torque wrenches being used are fairly new (or at least if old, have been recently calibrated), the final torque values should be faily close and that should be adequate for automotive work. When Toyota adds wings to the 2010 Prius model, THEN you can start worrying about calibrated/certified torque values!!!!

But in answer to your request for a recommendation: If one is going to buy tools, buy the best! Snap-on! Here are two models which I am sure will fill most if not ALL your torqueing needs:


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog

Good luck.

 

With very great respect for the preceeding comments by an A&P, and for snap on tools, I will propose a humble alternative. Harbor Freight Tools, friend of the cheapskate mechanic, has 1/2" click-types for $20, and sometimes $10. I absolutely cannot vouch for its initial or onging calibration. But I have used it many many times for the wheel bolts because I inspect the tires a lot. Rarely, to confirm chassiss, suspension and brake hanger bolts.

Calibration aside, at least I can say with great confidence that you won't break it. Not so for adapters to 3/8" should you try to sneak by with 13/16" sockets of that size. After twisting a couple of those off I bought a proper 1/2" socket and 2 " extension. Now I am in wheel bolt hog heaven.

The HFT wrench does not fit in its plastic case if you back the adjustment to zero, as you should. Just to let you know.

Hey Jim how common are torque wrench calibrators at airports? Would like to satisfy my curiousity some day.

 

I've got 2 torque wrenches, both click type.
A $300.00 Snap On that I use for important stuff like engine head bolts, a $50 Husky that I use for non critical stuff like torquing lug nuts at races. The snap on is much more precise, and I've had it for 30 years now (calibrated every 5 years or so). The $12 Harbor Freight ones are ok for lug nuts, but I wouldn't build an engine with it! In fact they sell so much substandard junk that it's hard to find the few gems among the collection. I will say that their aluminum floor jacks are pretty good, one used to go with me to races. Their power tool selection has been know to spontaneously combust, and their sockets and wrenches do a nice jog of rounding the corners off of bolts. Also stay away from the wire ties they sell. They are so brittle that they often snap as you are wrapping them around the wire.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jim B. @ Dec 21 2006, 06:04 PM) [snapback]365414[/snapback]</div>

Uhm, no. Not when the price of 'the best' requires a second home mortgage. The prices for most of that Snap-on stuff is enough to induce heart failure. For non-professional, occasional home applications (such as torquing lug-nuts or oil-drain plugs), stuff like Crapsman (or even the Harbor Freight torque wrenches) do fine.

With that said, compared to top-of-the-line Craftsman Digitork wrenches, the click-type Snap-on torque wrenches referenced above aren't really that bad. Although they're over twice the price, unlike the Digitorks, you get lifetime calibration and 'maybe' a free replacement (not sure about that one). Years ago, I had one of those Digitorks crap on me and found out, the hard way, that the Craftsman 'lifetime' warranty doesn't apply to their torque wrenches. If I didn't already have the Digitorks, I'd probably cough up the extra bucks for the Snap-on. In fact, you could probably get by with just the one Snap-on torque wrench instead of the two Digitorks. The prices for regular Snap-on ratcheting wrenches aren't too bad, either.

But, man, the price for other Snap-on tools (particularly sockets) is breathtaking. Unless you make your living with your tools (or have a lot of extra cash laying around) and can't afford to have a tool break in the middle of a repair, I just can't see the justification of most Snap-on tools for general home use.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tochatihu @ Dec 22 2006, 10:29 AM) [snapback]365635[/snapback]</div>

Harbor Freight is great, isn't it? I have to say that on the tools I decide I can skimp on, I go to the Harbor Freight catalog to see what they have. Nothing wrong with spending a lttle less than Snap-on charges if you can get away with it. A few months ago, I bought a marvelous drill set from them. I mostly drill aluminum during repairs, so the tool steel used in drill bits can be a bit "second rate". Bought the whole set(number, letter and fractional sizes) for like $45! I could use each bit one time for that price, then throw them away and buy another set if I had to!

Your question about cals.....most of the techs I work with work for a repair station. The repair station has a full set of calibrated wrenches that the mechs use. Wrench Calibration machines just aren't found at GA airports. All of the wrenches that Repair Stations/Mechanics want calibrated are sent out to tool shops that have the machines.

I work for a corporate out of the Boston area, so I maintain my own tools. I have been buying them since 1976, so I have probably upwards of $30K in tools....plus the rollaway I have is probably worth about another $8K-$10K. Quite an investment but when you make your living day to day with them, getting Snap-on makes a difference. Some might argue with me but I have owned MAC, Craftsman, SK, Cornwell....ALL sorts of tools. I know what a good well made tool feels like. I ONLY buy Snap-on tools if I have to use them day in and day out.

But I probably gave the wrong impresion with my first post. I have bought "second quality" tools to do a special job that needed to be done only once or twice. If I was strictly going to work on cars (as a hobby mind you), I wouldn't go hog wild on tools either.


Still, if you do your own work and can afford the price, there is nothing like a good Snap-on tool.

 

Everybody says "make sure it is calibrated". Other than chasing down the Snap On truck
where or how do you do this. I found one place in the US that does this and mailed my
old wrench to them. However I would sure like to figure out a better way... I think I am going
to buy a cheap beam wrench and make a tester with it and a bolt. That raises the question of
how do I fix my clicker wrench if it is out of spec?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jim B. @ Dec 22 2006, 08:28 PM) [snapback]365871[/snapback]</div>

Yeah, the mechanics I knew all made the investment (and it's a big investment) in Snap-on tools. If you planned on staying in any business where you relied on your tools, there really isn't much choice.

I must say that one of the better mechanics I knew absolutely hated the Snap-on guy. He was astute enough to know how Snap-on tool-truck distributors make their money (financing the expensive tools) and hated constantly being in debt to him just because he sold the best tools and knew that mechanics really have no choice but to buy Snap-on from him.

I reviewed the Snap-on torque wrench site and if I were buying just one torque wrench, this would be one of my choices. At $213, it's not exactly cheap, but it would definitely be a lifetime investment:

Snap-on 3/8" 20-100 ft-lb

But I'm not crazy about the somewhat limited range torque range and, frankly, I might consider paying an additional $110 to get the fancy electronic one with all the bells and whistles, just because it has a wider torque range (plus, it's easier to use):

Snap-on 'Techwrench' 3/8" 5-100 ft-lb

I could be wrong, but I can't think of many light-duty home applications where more than 100 ft-lbs of torque (or less than 5 ft-lbs) is going to be required on a bolt.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Ari @ Dec 21 2006, 12:24 PM) [snapback]365071[/snapback]</div>

I've been wondering about that comment, because I always leave mine set at a low but non-zero point.

According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench (Wikipedia) and quoting, "For the click type, when not in use, the force acting on the spring should be removed by setting the scale to 20% of full scale in order to maintain the spring's strength. Never set a micrometer style torque wrench to zero as the internal mechanism requires a small amount of tension in order to prevent tool failure due to unwarranted tip block rotation. If a micrometer tool is has been stored with the setting above 20% the tool should be set to 50% of full scale and exercised at least 5 times before being used. In the case of the beam type, there is no strain on the component that provides the reference force except when it is in use."

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tochatihu @ Dec 22 2006, 10:29 AM) [snapback]365635[/snapback]</div>

When I need a torque wrench, I need an accurate one. That's why I have torque wrenches. As opposed to your $20 torque wrench, I have a low-range $300 torque wrench for making sure the adjuster lock nuts are tightened properly when I do valve adjustments on my Civics and BMW motorcycle. If I remember, it came from Sears, but was made in France.

I am not about to overtighten or have an adjuster lock nut come loose, which is the reason for the $300 wrench. I spent enough $$ to ensure accuracy. By the way, the dealer's cost of doing a valve adjustment is around $300 for the car or bike.

I have a cheaper Craftsman beam type for tightening lug nuts, and that suits that purpose fine.

My Prius is new enough that I don't know if I'll need a torque wrench other than for checking the torque on wheel lug nuts.

Harry

 

Dug this up to get more recent input.

What range of torque should I get for the Prius?

Is there a DIY calibration method?

Thanks!

 

If you are DIY, I think that Sears Craftsman provides reasonable quality and pricing. I suggest that you purchase the click type wrench (not the less accurate and cheaper beam type.)

I'm not aware of a DIY calibration method.

I own an 1/2" wrench that ranges from 20 - 150 ft.-lb and an 3/8" wrench that ranges from 25 - 250 in.-lb:

Sears - Compare

If you go to your local store you may find that the prices are better than the web prices.

 

Well yea, they go down below 10 inch lbs (and usualy show nm on the opposite side) and large ones go up over 1,000 lbs. Typically the largest load that a shade tree mechanic will need to go up to is on the lugs though.

 

the beam type is cheaper; the click type much easier to use. If you want to measure the torque needed to loosen, the beam type is much easier. The beam type is almost impossible to get out of calibration as long as the zero point is correct. The only way I can see to get a beam out of calibration would be to heat it with a torch and change the temper. You can check calibration by clamping the square drive in a vise then hanging known weights a measured distance from the square drive. You can also test it against a beam type.