12v Battery replacements choices advice for a 2005 w/o smart key

Hello everyone!!!

So it was determined by volt meter that my battery wasn't keeping enough charge and likely needed replacement. (around 10v ?) But when the car was running the voltage reading would be higher (the alternator running). So alternator should be fine but battery isn't with all of the typical dashboard lights and odd behavior.

I've found a few local replacements ranging from $250 to $290 at all of the ususal places here in the East Coast of central FL.

The last battery I bought was in 2019 and it was a 51P AGM. I was told that this battery is not compatible with a 2007 (which I was driving at the time) but I used it and died at some point this year after not using the car.

For whatever reason they say the battery requires the car to have smart key capabilities. No clue if mine does as the FOB is not working for some reason I can care less because I keep the car unlocked.

That same battery that said that required the car to have a smart key worked fine for all those years. Do you know why a battery that fits and has the right voltage might/might not be "compatible" and what the expectations of compatibility should be?

What type of specs should I be looking for?

Incidentally, I want to run a laser printer while driving and it requires about 450 watts, so I guess a 700 + watts inverter should work for that. I bring this up as I wonder if the consideration of using such a device should impact the choice of battery for me to get or if any battery, even the one that "requires" a smart key would do.

$155, 60 AH, Size 47

$166, 70 AH , BCI48 (whatever that is, must be the size/form factor)

$165, 70Ah, BCI48

$167, 70Ah, BCI48

$255, 45 AH, BCI51

And so on...

What you guys think I should get ?

Thanks in advance for your guidance

 

Links are not showing. Can't upload pics either. Wth? Oh well, Below are my choices

$155, 60 AH, Size 47
Ama zon[dot kom/]Platinum-Battery-47-12v-Automotive-Warranty/dp/B0BXSPTMX2/

$166, 70 AH , BCI48 (whatever that is, must be the size/form factor)
Ama zon[dot kom/] MARXON-Group-48-Maintenance-Replacement/dp/B0C99GDR7W/

$165, 70Ah, BCI48
Ama zon[dot kom/] UPLUS-Start-Stop-AGM-L70-M-Maintenance-Automotive/dp/B0C81FT86S/

$167, 70Ah, BCI48
Ama zon[dot kom/] ACDelco-48AGM-Professional-Automotive-Battery/dp/B008FWCLHU/

$255, 45 AH, BCI51
Ama zon[dot kom/] ACDelco-ACDB24R-Advantage-Automotive-Battery/dp/B010GKJ8F6/



What you guys think I should get ?

 

Thank you for your reply. I'm not sure how when I entered my vehicle amazon came up with these batteries. Certainly they cost less than the Prius batteries. The dimensions of BCI 48 didn't get my attention until I saw your comment.

I asked Chat GPT about the reason behind the batteries available in town said to "only be compatible with smart key Priuses" as a compatibility issue. The explanation didn't seem to suggest there being any drawbacks on using one of these on a non smart key Prius..

As per Chat GPT, the Smart Key ones might have a higher reserve capacity and seem to provide more cold cranking amps, but I could swear to have read here that the 12v battery isn't what's used to crank the vehicle but the hybrid one. Either way, I guess that the big question about the warning "of compatibility" could have to do with the alternators designed to charge batteries designed for smart key Priuses might put more "juice" out? And if that's the case these batteries never "charge properly" in a non smart key Prius leading to the battery dying sooner hence the "compatibility warning"?

I'm curious about the reading of the output of an alternator for a non smart key Prius vs the output of the alternator for a smart Key Prius.

 

I did decide to go with a different printer than laser technology. I still have to determine if the bumping of being in a car will make a printer technology more viable than another, or if the advantages of having a printer in the car vs waiting to print at home or get a printer specifically designed to be on the road vs having a printer with a reduced life expectancy because of the bumpiness will pay off.

As of now, I think I should go for one of the Epson high performance monochrome ecotank printers. They do about 20 pages per minute and use a max of 12 watts while printing which means I can pretty much use ANY inverter and might not any longer need an additional power inverter capable of 700 watts to power the peaks of these typycally 400 to 500 watts laser beasts.

But I am still exploring this, All the printers I'm looking for are designed to be on top of desks, not inside moving vehicles. Surely there might be some designed as "portable" but then the crazy price tag or very slow amount of pages per minute. I plan to mitigate the shaking by securing the printer to the back of a folded rear passenger seats, but that doesn't mean there won't be bumps and so on. And since there isn't a whole lot of independent examples of people putting printers in their cars I will need to see what type of forum might have answers as to what technology is better and/or if this is a viable idea. But so far, I think laser is out of the question.

All of the above is irrelevant except for the fact that my looking for more powerful batteries with a larger RC capacity was largely motivated by my initial though of running a laser printer which does produce a draw while the car is turned off.

 

Loved that. No one believes the high price of this battery, though, to my understanding, the fact that the battery goes in the back, inside the cabin, means that emissions might have been accounted for in the original design, which might mean that it should be a good idea to look for the OEM batttery? Like, Do aftermarket batteries meet the emissions standards than the OEM battery?

 

Here goes the update, searched on youtube for mobile notary car printing and got enough good tips to get going. Rrgarding power requirements, I decided I can go for the smart key Prius's batteries available in my area and might be able to get away with the current power inverter I have in my car.

For those knowledgeable, since I had no clue as to what were the actual power requirements of a printer I had, a few months ago, I tried a regular power inverter with it, tried to run printer on and not only the experiment damaged the power inverter, but the attempt of such draw of current turned the cigarette lighter output in the console of my Prius unusable. Since I still had the one that was under the radio I didn't care, but now that I am considering having a printer in the back seat area/hashback/whatever I am considering bringing this outlet back to life. Are we talking about the possibility that a fuse went or that the actual cables for that component got possibly fried?

I'm not an engineer nor a mechanic, so thank you for your patience and consideration on your replies.

 

Would love to know if you happen to have access to a walmart part # as I called and the person in automotive said they didn't have it in stock, knew nothing about car batteries (I knew more which says enough). He said that the battery that showed up in his system was an Odissey 925 MJT. could that be the one you happen to be referring to?