Did he Damage HB Battery, Codes, $1,100 New Brake Acc. installed

There's some chain jerking going on here somewhere as far as I know on a generation 2 actuator accumulator the part that everybody replaces not the stroke simulator You're not going to reasonably I don't believe separate the electronic business behind the plastic and just remove it and stick it in another assembly I don't believe it's like that they used to do this with some of the Volkswagen ABS parts and air flow meter parts but I don't think there's anything like that going on with the Prius at least I haven't heard about it or seen it or seen it offered so I think somebody's pulling the wool over somebody's eyes or something because that doesn't sound right You can't buy the actuator separate from its electronic circuit that's built in it now if he's talking about the computer that's in the dash usually that doesn't get changed with the actuator usually that computer is working fine and trying to make the actuator work and the actuator is acting up because the accumulator can't hold pressure and the pumps running a lot I don't think the computer could fix that leaking accumulator or leaking valve in the circuit with the accumulator but however that works out buying an accumulator actuator for $1,200 or something like that that's a pretty good price The last one I saw bought online picked up at the dealer I don't know 4 months ago was about 1470 and we're in the southeast United States not the Northeast we have some better pricing structure down here generally and if I'm not buying the parts I'd want to see receipts and bills of lading where the stuff came from something this guy doesn't sound well I don't know I don't care if he has 5 acres full of Prius why are they all there anyway something doesn't sound right.

 

ACC in this code is short for accumulator, not adaptive cruise control. Big clue is the Gen 2 does not have adaptive cruise control.

No, that is ops normal. The older the HV battery gets, the quicker you can get to 2-3 bars.

Well, yes the first part is true and you might reset (clear) codes but you generally do not need to bleed brakes when all you do is change the brake pads. Additionally, changing the pads (especially with the 12 V battery disconnected) would not generate those codes. You did, of course, pump the brakes several times after completing the reassembly of the brakes and before reconnecting the 12 V battery, didn't you?

Could it be called a resistor? New brake accumulators come with a matching resistor. I've never heard of the brake ECU (computer) needing to be changed alongside the brake accumulator.

Did you try clearing the codes after completing the brake job?

 

This is just bollicks.

I don't know if it is a case of you not understanding what was said and misunderstanding, but I can tell you you do not need to bleed the brakes if all you did is change old pads for new ones. You do, however, need to press the brakes until they get firm after reassembling the brakes and before you reconnect the 12 V battery. You then need to use a code reader to clear the codes – just having the 12 V disconnected will not clear these brake (ABS) codes.

If after that you still have codes, you need to rescan the car to see what codes you have now.

 

The maniac was not correct The adaptive cruise control can't leak It's electric It's not vacuum anymore so there's nothing to leak except some electricity and they don't talk about that like that in codes or anything I believe. So when you had the pads off and they were paper thin obviously nobody did anything silly and you were able to just stick the pads back in stick the caliper back on the car and off you go most people when they're breaking a Prius don't actually engage the pads the electricity does most of the stopping your regenerative braking unless you have to slam the brake pedal pretty much to the floor you're on electric braking Don't worry about understanding it it really doesn't matter That's why the pads last so long on the Prius so now that you have these codes coming up when you go to take your front wheels off again to actually replace the $30 pads that you need to replace Make sure that your remote is away from the car it would be nice to disconnect the 12 volt so that by accident the calipers can't all of a sudden squeeze down while they're off the car popping the Pistons out and causing you problems that you'll never get past so maybe undo the 12 volt before you start this venture again You were lucky once you may not be twice. So with the 12 volt disconnected now you can put in your new pads when you need to squeeze the caliper down use your large channel locks and open the bleed screw on the caliper you're working on squeeze the caliper down with one hand it's all it'll take and then when the fluid stops squirting out of the fitting close the fitting The pads are already in their holder drop the caliper over the pads put the screws in or the bolts and that side is finished Go do the other side but the wheels back on put the 12 volt back live You can step on the brakes with the 12 volt disconnected if you want to or you don't have to You can apply the 12 volt step on the brakes all the way to the floor hold them a second let the pedal up there should be no bleeding and no funny business needed If there is when you let the fluid squeeze out of the fitting you were slow to close the fitting when the fluid stopped and it sucked a tiny bit of air in but that should dissipate about an hour or less If more air than that got in then you may need to bleed. And that's about it All of your lights that you have now are either a wheel sensor got fubar while y'all were playing around looking at the pads or your accumulator actuator is actually going bad which is very common on a generation 2 at this year of age so whether you have miles to back it up doesn't really matter You're at the age where this would happen to a generation too and more than likely you are going to be getting an actuator or going to be getting out of the car The choice is yours there's nothing magical about it.